Silja Boy Tell 'Em

HAPPY NEW YEAR! A little late, I know, but, as they say, better late than never. Plus, there's a good excuse for my delay. I mentioned in my last post that my Hong Kong friend Silja was in the middle of a holiday visit to the East Coast, and now that she's flown back to Germany, I am finally recovered enough to sit down and put together this recap of her stay.

A little background: Silja moved to Hong Kong almost exactly three years ago, in January 2011. I actually met her within hours of her arrival. She took over the job of our friend Johannes, and he brought her along to Sonia's birthday scavenger hunt around Lan Kwai Fong on her very first night in town. In fact, she even happened to be in my small group for the hunt itself. We often joked that not only did she take over Johannes' job, but the rest of his Hong Kong life as well. She moved in to his apartment when he left and became a regular member of his social circle.

Our scavenger hunt group in front of a tram on Silja's first night in Hong Kong!

By the time she returned to Germany in October of 2012, we had become very good friends, having had adventures not only in our beloved Hong Kong but also in China, Macau, Vietnam, the Philippines, Singapore and Thailand. Of course it was sad to see her go, but the seed for the Christmas 2013 trip had already been planted, so it was a long-anticipated reunion.

Silja and me in Macau in the summer of 2011, during one of our many trips to Hong Kong's sister SAR

By the way, Silja's name is pronounced ZILL-ya, though most native English speakers—myself included—simply opt to pronounce it as if it were spelled Celia. But it wasn't long before our friend Alex struck on her brilliant nickname that endures to this day: Silja Boy, pronounced exactly as you'd think. Silja herself didn't fully understand the nickname at first, and it took even longer for her to embrace it. But it's here to stay. To me and many others, she is and forever will be Silja Boy.

On the Star Ferry in Hong Kong in 2012

Silja landed at JFK on Christmas day. You see, in Germany the biggest day of the Christmas season is actually Christmas Eve. This is when most Germans gather with their families for a Christmas meal and open presents. So when Silja found reasonable flights departing on the 25th, I'm not quite sure she realized my Christmas celebrations would still be in full swing.

Despite the fact that someone died on her flight (yes, you read that right), that she was still on German time, and that KLM had lost her luggage, a chipper Silja arrived at my cousin Victoria's house in Dyker Heights, Brooklyn, in the midst of a noisy and chaotic New York Christmas celebration. We drove over to my Aunt Beth and Uncle Walter's house in Bay Ridge a few hours later for further Christmas merriment, and ultimately wound up staying overnight back at Vicki's, making for an easy venture into Manhattan the following morning.

We rode the D train into the heart of the city, visited Macy's, walked up Fifth Avevnue past the holiday windows, took some time to wander around Bryant Park and hit up Rockefeller Center to see its famous tree. By this time, the cold had gotten to us, so we ducked into an Irish pub for a pint.

It was now dusk, and we were a few blocks south of Central Park, so we took an evening stroll in New York's most famous green space, making our way to my friend Heidi's apartment on the Upper West Side. Up at Heidi's we had a beer and searched online for a New York restaurant that served glühwein, a hot, spiced wine that's a wintertime favorite of Silja Boy's. It doesn't even get very cold in Hong Kong, but glühwein, called mulled wine in England and vin chaud in France (and any one of the three in Hong Kong depending on which bar you happen to be in), is popular all over town this time of year. It's also a hit across Europe, so I'm not sure why it hasn't caught on big yet in New York. Although we were unsuccessful in our search for the stuff, we did wind up going for dinner at a local café called Arte Around the Corner, and it was great to catch up with Heidi.

We were supposed to spend the next day in the city again, but Silja's lost bag had been located and delivered to my family's New Jersey address, meaning we had to head to the Garden State a day earlier than I had planned, contact lenses and special shampoos being necessary sooner rather than later. So we woke up and, after a Brooklyn bagel breakfast sandwich, were Jersey bound. But that meant I got to show Silja the glories of my home state ahead of schedule, starting when we went for a beer at the ultimate dive bar, the Blue Comet in Newark Penn Station on our commute home.

And after spending a few hours at the house getting ready, we headed down to Red Bank for a Friday night out, Jersey-style. We bought some white wine at a liquor store and had a great Mexican dinner at my old favorite, Juanito's, a BYOB on Monmouth Street. I used to spend a lot of time in Red Bank during my high school days, and there's an intriguing gallimaufry of great restaurants, shops, events and bars that usually brings me back for one reason or another on any given trip home. 

After dinner we went for a drink at a bar called Red, then for another at the Dublin House—where we bumped in to some of my old high school friends—and eventually headed home. It was only the start of a full-fledged Jersey Shore weekend.

Saturday morning included a visit to Keyport with a stop at Mike's Subs and a walk along the waterfront promenade with views of faraway Manhattan. Then we drove down Route 36 to the Atlantic Highlands, where I wanted to show Silja a trio of my favorite Jersey Shore sights.

First up was the Mount Mitchell Scenic Overlook, with its near-perfect panoramic view complemented by the near-perfect weather. Here we were a few days after Christmas and my jacket was hardly necessary. Atop Mount Mitchell, explanatory panels (via text and historical photographs) reveal snippets of the Jersey Shore of yesteryear. There is also a beautiful memorial to local victims of the September 11th attacks, a fitting tribute to the men and women of Monmouth County who died on that fateful day, while a nearby flagpole and plaque commemorate the Iran Hostage Crisis.

A beautiful December day atop Mount Mitchell

After driving our way up some steep, winding hills, we found ourselves at the Twin Lights, one of my favorite spots down the Shore. We climbed to the top of the North Tower, with yet another unobstructed view over Sandy Hook across to Staten Island, Brooklyn and Manhattan.

View of the South Tower from the North Tower of the Twin Lights

Back in the car, we then crossed the bridge to Sandy Hook itself, driving along the water for a few miles, out past the old historic buildings of Fort Hancock, including stately Officer's Row, a line of waterfront homes that once housed important army officials. At last, we parked the car to explore a thorough little museum in the Sandy Hook Lighthouse, America's oldest working lighthouse, built in 1764.

That afternoon, Silja picked up and iPad at the Freehold Raceway Mall before I got a haircut, and we indulged in a celebratory Cinnabon there while we formulated our evening plans. Thai food is a staple of life in Hong Kong, and Silja and I both love it, so we decided to go for dinner at Thai Thai in Old Bridge before catching a screening of American Hustle in Hazlet. Gallivanting around Monmouth and Middlesex Counties like I was back in high school made for a great day from start to finish, and I loved showing my home state off to a Hong Kong friend for the first time.

View over the Atlantic Highlands and Sandy Hook from the Twin Lights

The meteorologists had correctly predicted heavy rain all day Sunday, but that fit in well with Silja's desire to visit an outlet mall. It would have felt like a waste to me to spend another beautiful day shopping, but since there was little else we could have done under the circumstances, it was perfect. My sister Danielle drove us down and spent the day with us, as we jumped from one store to another. We naturally got a little wet running between shops, but in the end it was a successful visit to the Jersey Shore Premium Outlets in Tinton Falls. On the way home, we even stopped at an authentic Jersey diner where we feasted on mozzarella sticks and potato skins.

My dad cooked veal parmigiana for dinner that night, and Danielle and her friend Christina also joined for the meal, making for a nice and relaxed evening at home. Some old photo albums from my parents' European backpacking days in the late 1970s even made an appearance, causing some amazed reactions, especially from me and my sister.

My backpacking parents!!!

Since Silja would be spending eleven days in the States, and since she'd been to New York once before, I decided that a day trip to Philadelphia would be an easy and fun way to show her another destination close to my heart. During my four years at Villanova, I used to love spending time in Philly, and it's a place I try to squeeze into any Stateside visit. So at 9:15 on Monday morning we were on the Bolt Bus en route to the City of Brotherly Love. 

And after walking from 30th Street Station to City Hall, we finally found that glühwein we'd been searching for in a German Christmas market in LOVE Park. Although Sunday's rains had disappeared, it never quite got back to the level of Saturday's beautiful temperature. So we splurged on a second glass of the warmed, spiced wine as we enjoyed a welcome respite from the cold.

Glühwein in Philly

Since Philadelphia is a great walking city, we meandered along the Benjamin Franklin Parkway to the Swann Fountain, then headed down Market Street to the Reading Terminal Market, stopped for a quick Malaysian lunch in Chinatown, hit up the Liberty Bell and Independence Hall, navigated the cobblestone streets between the wealth of historic buildings in Old City and then—again—escaped the now bitterly cold weather with another warm libation. I was elated to hear Silja express surprise at how unexpectedly charming she found Philadelphia, somewhat European in flavor and quite different than how she had imagined it would be.

City Hall

Second Bank of the United States

The locale for our afternoon tipple was City Tavern, a recreation of the pub where America's Founders gathered after long days debating the pros and cons of revolution in the sweltering summer of 1776. Beers here are still brewed according to old, handwritten recipes attributed to Washington, Jefferson and Franklin, and waiters dress in period-appropriate costumes. And during the colder months, there are some delicious, old fashioned, hot cocktails on the drink list. So we started with a Tavern Warmer, hot cider mixed with rum, whiskey and brandy, and then followed it up with the colonial beer sampler, which gives patrons a taste of all four of the restaurant's historic Ales of the Revolution.

Before we knew it, we had to collect our bags (which we had left in 30th Street Station so as to avoid having to tote them all over the city with us) and catch our bus back to New York. It was a short return to Philadelphia, but a sweet one, undoubtedly. And we stayed at Heidi's apartment back in New York, relaxing and watching television.

Philadelphia's 30th Street Station

Tuesday was New Year's Eve, and I was shocked at how quickly it had sneaked up on us. After an Upper West Side breakfast at Popover Cafe, we headed downtown to the Financial District, where I used to spend a great deal of time. We visited the solemn, peaceful World Trade Center Memorial before meeting my sophomore year roommate Jimbo for lunch at Trinity Place, my favorite Manhattan watering hole. It's set in an old bank vault, and the massive safe doors now feature in the interior decoration of the place. I have so many memories of great nights in this vault-turned-bar, and I'm always happy to add new ones.

Strolling past Federal Hall and the iconic New York Stock Exchange as we made our way to the Staten Island Ferry, it started to flurry outside! New Year's Eve in New York City and snow! What could be more perfect?

And of course the free boat ride past Ellis Island and the Statue of Liberty is always a winner. It was freezing on the outside deck, that's for sure, but it's a wonderful New York attraction. It was snowing again on our return crossing, and I sure was glad I had bought a pair of five dollar gloves in the terminal before boarding!

Freezing on the ferry!

Firmly back on Manhattan soil, we headed up to a pre-New Year's Eve gathering at the apartment of another former roommate of mine, Ryan. And then it was time to head back to Heidi's to prepare for our end-of-year bash. My friend Jackie hosted a big shindig at her father's fiancée's amazing East Side high-rise. New Year's Eve can be a disappointing holiday. Bars are usually overly crowded, and it can be a nightmare to refresh your drink. Moreover, the intense pressure to have an amazing celebration can turn what would have been an ordinarily entertaining evening into a let-down.

Getting ready for the night!

So attending a party with some old friends in a luxurious private setting was a great option for the year's biggest night. Champagne, cocktails, snacks and good company made for a bacchanalian celebration indeed! And Jackie graciously invited Silja and I to stay over after the party, which made things extremely easy for us. Surprisingly, we both woke up pretty early the next morning. Hello, 2014!

With Jackie and our friend Katie on New Year's Eve

After returning to Heidi's and getting ready for the day, we hopped on the subway to Coney Island, another one of my favorite parts of New York City and one I know best. I've been going since I was a toddler, and I've always loved it. Our first meal of the new year was a seriously artery-clogging feast at Nathan's consisting of hot dogs, cheese fries and fried clams. Clearly our new year's resolution was not to eat healthily!

For years I've wanted to drop by Coney on New Year's Day to witness the spectacle of thousands of fearless men and women braving the icy waters of the Atlantic. And since I'm not sure when my next winter visit to the region will be, I didn't really give Silja Boy much of a choice in the day's itinerary. Luckily she seemed as amused by the Polar Bear Plunge as I was. I can't remember the last time I chuckled so uncontrollably, but everywhere I looked, and everywhere I turned, I saw something that kept the giggles coming. Every few minutes, another quirky group would begin screaming and running towards the waves.

The Polar Bear Plunge!

Some bathers were in daffy costume and many were in skimpy swimsuits. Some looked shocked and regretful of their decision after emerging from the waters while others seemed as natural as if they'd just come out of the surf on any normal midsummer's afternoon. The juxtaposition of the warmly bundled spectators and the half-naked participants was hilarious. It was a surreal, strange ritual to witness, and if circumstances ever allow it again, I'd love to start another year in exactly the same way.
 

After we'd had our fill of inspecting the scene from the beach, we headed up to the boardwalk. At a bar called Ruby's, we bought some hot chocolate, and in a moment of brilliance, added a little Bailey's. We also walked past the Wonder Wheel and Cyclone, which, sadly, were both closed for the winter. Although I had known from their websites that these attractions were shuttered for the season, some small part of me had held out hope that due to the crowds expected in Coney Island because of the swim, one or even both might have decided to open just for one day. Alas, it was not to be. (I still think they both would have made a killing.)

The Wonder Wheel and Cyclone from the beach

What I never expected was that the Coney Island Circus Sideshow would be open out of season. In fact, during the summer, when Silja had first confirmed the dates of her trip, I immediately visited their website only to disappointedly discover that the season would close at September's end. However, as we approached the theater, I pointed it out—simply to tell Silja about one of my favorite attractions which was supposed to be closed—and lo, and behold, I saw a small crowd gathered outside and the undeniable figure of a man in the ticket booth. Of course, we got two tickets and went right in!

The Sideshow is an incredible rotating presentation of a variety of unbelievable acts, ever-changing and always intriguing—sword swallowers, fire dancers, contortionists and plenty of other insane performers. If you are ever in Coney Island during the season, you have to check it out. It's even worth the subway ride itself. Getting the chance to go again, and to show it to Silja Boy, truly made my day.

By this point, I needed a second Nathan's hot dog to sustain me for the subway ride back to Manhattan. And during a quick pit stop at William's Candy Store, an old fashioned sweet shop next to Nathan's on Surf Avenue, I stocked up on even more junk food to start off the new year.

Hot dog numéro deux! 2014 is off to a healthy start!

Williams Candy in Coney Island

We wanted to spend the next day in Princeton, where my friend Jimmy is getting his doctorate and where I worked at a summer camp for three years during high school. So we got up, made a bee line to Penn Station and hopped on the New Jersey Transit Northeast Corridor Line to the celebrated university town, which served as the nation's capital in the early years of our country's history.

Blair Arch

We walked through campus, past the stately Gothic buildings, statues and lawns. We met Jimmy on the main thoroughfare of the town, Nassau Street, and went for a speedy Indian buffet lunch. Next stop: Palmer Square in the center of downtown Princeton, a beautiful, charming spot, and of course the location of Princeton's festive Christmas tree. My three summers as a camper and three more as a staff member of Camp Albemarle remain some of my happiest, most perfect memories, and Princeton is one of the most nostalgic places I can think of. So although the mercury was dipping lower and lower by the minute, I still loved walking past the old buildings and even insisted on an ice cream break at Halo Pub before leaving the area.

Alexander Hall

As you probably know, meteorologists all over the tri-state area predicted a massive winter storm to strike in the early evening of January 2nd. As we wanted to get home before the snow—a condition of my sister's willingness to pick us up at the local station—we had to head towards the train soon afterwards. We dropped into the Princeton University Art Museum to use the complimentary Wi-Fi, and when it turned out the next train wasn't for about forty-five minutes, we explored the museum's incredible (and incredibly free) collection. There are Van Goghs, Toulouse-Lautrecs, Monets, Sargents, Remingtons, Romneys... Works by Degas, Manet, Gilbert Stuart, Modigliani... Turns out I am a much bigger art fan than Silja Boy, but even she preferred the warmth of the museum to the chill of an exposed train platform.

Nassau Hall, Princeton University's oldest building

Midnight darkness descended on the world even though it was only around 4pm as we chugged towards home, and flurries were just starting to fall when we pulled into Matawan, with trusty Danielle ready to chauffeur us to the house. We had made it... by the skin of our teeth. We stayed in that night, as eight or so inches accumulated on the ground. My dad cooked again, and some board games helped pass the time.

By 6pm the next night, we were back in the city. We met Kristen at Kabooz's, a cool little bar and grill in the otherwise charmless Penn Station. Kristen and Silja had met during Kristen's 2011 visit to Hong Kong, so I'm glad they got to see each other again while both in the same city. We had some Happy Hour draught beers and an order of delicious boneless chicken wings, and then we all headed up to Heidi's. Silja and I were again staying at Heidi's that night, and since she had her luggage in tow in preparation for her flight home the next evening, we had to drop it off.

Near Heidi's apartment is a great little spot called Dive 75. They have a load of beers on tap, an uber-casual atmosphere, and even Jenga and other popular games scattered about for patrons to play. An old Villanova friend, Sean, joined us later, and the cool spot made for a fun night.

The next morning, the start of Silja's last day in America, began early with brunch in Harlem. Bottomless mimosas and eggs Benedict got us off to a good start, as Silja treated us both to a memorable meal. Heidi walked us around Morningside Park, the Cathedral of Saint John the Divine and Columbia University afterwards, all stunningly beautiful under the blanket of snow.

Me and Heidi walking in Morningside Park

Columbia University

Navigating the black slush-covered sidewalks and streets, we then we headed down to Union Square and made our way to the High Line, where we met my friend Will (who lives in the neighborhood) for an expert guided tour. We didn't stay on the High Line too long due to the cold, but I'm glad we made it there. Modeled on a similar attraction in Paris called the Promenade plantée, the High Line is what's known as a linear park. It has given a new lease on life to a former elevated railway line, now covered with flowers, plants and trees, and popular with tourists and locals alike.   

Snowy High Line

A bar just beside the High Line, called Hogs and Heifers, gave us some relief from the arctic air, and after one beer, we went up to Will's apartment, where we got a chance to catch up with his wife Tory. Will and Tory were two of my good friends in Hong Kong, and their move back to New York nearly coincided with my move to Singapore at the end of 2012. At the time I thought I'd be down in Singapore for good, but now that it looks like I'm back in Hong Kong, I really miss having them around. Needless to say, it was great to spend some time with them.

But before long, we had to go. Silja Boy and I caught the subway back up to Heidi's so she could pack and head to JFK, concluding a wonderful extravaganza. Heidi was definitely the MVP of this trip, and I can't even imagine how much more difficult everything would have been without her. She kindly let us stay at her apartment many nights, took us around her neighborhood, offered great suggestions for dining and could not have been a better host. Thank you so much Heidi for all you did for us. I owe you big time!

One of the nice things about Silja's visit was that it rarely, if ever, felt hectic. Over eleven days, we had more than enough time to check off everything she had told me she wanted to do, and plenty more time to fit in some extra activities I thought would be cool, all at a relaxed, leisurely pace. We got to spend great time with my family and friends, and it was nice to show Silja a real slice of American life. She was overheard to say numerous times, "Maybe someday I would like to live in New York." So, in the end, I guess there's not much more I could have asked for. 2013 went out in style and 2014 is already off to a great start!