Exit, 2020

Well, I guess a lot of you are probably ready for 2020 to finally draw to a close. But from my point of view, for a year when certain days seem to have dragged endlessly, it's astounding that, on the whole, the time has evaporated just like time usually does.   

And there were some mega-highlights for me that would have taken their place among my top memories even had this been a normal year. 

A few examples? Kicking off the new decade with a jaunt up to Beijing that coincided with the most photogenic of blizzards; exploring new destinations in Cambodia over a Chinese New Year that provided me with my last major international journey until this pandemic is finally behind us; and, of course, wallowing in old world luxury during my staycation at the Peninsula over the summer that saw me achieving a major life goal. 

In addition to that last one, there were many other precious moments in my home city, Hong Kong. I don't think I've ever spent more time here, with our ability to enter and exit at will effectively extinguished thanks to COVID, which has prevented me from venturing further afield since the end of February. Of course, the downside to this (and it's a big one) is that I haven't seen my family and friends back home in well over a year. But the silver lining, which you need to remind yourself exists, is that I've forged stronger relationships with my Hong Kong social circle—and significantly expanded it—and really gotten to enjoy all that this crazy city has to offer.

So, without further ado, here is my hotly anticipated summary of 2020, with a photo representing each of the twelve months of this oddball, ineffably unforgettable year. 

January

My first trip of any nature in the 2020s was a quick work jaunt to Beijing (passing through an obscure city called Wuhan) back in January. I know I already shared snaps of the capital under a blanket of snow. So here is one from the business side!

February

Lunch in the famed seaside resort of Kep during my Chinese New Year exploits around Cambodia. Though I passed through Saigon, Jakarta and Bangkok for short business trips afterwards, this was my last mega pre-COVID adventure. 

March

Who doesn’t love Paddy’s Day?

April

An Easter without the ability to travel means a splurge at Hong Kong’s most legendary Sunday brunch!

May

COVID or no COVID, I always celebrate Cinco de Mayo. 

June

Weekend at the Pen! Life highlight, folks. Plain and simple. 

July

If Independence Day falls on a weekend, I feel obligated to host a barbecue!

August

Would a 2020 summary truly be complete without a face mask selfie? This one is a from a night time ride on Hong Kong’s iconic Peak Tram. 

September

 A dip in temperature come mid-September means I can hike again!

October

I’m pretty sure I hosted the best Halloween party ever this year!

November

At Tung Po in North Point commemorating eleven—ELEVEN!—years in Hong Kong with some amazing new friends and one irreplaceable old one! Silver and gold!

December

Merry Christmas from the Bling Tiger!

Four Days of Christmas

Well, I’ve just about recovered from a massive Christmas extravaganza, and as I sit on my rooftop with a glass of red wine this Monday evening taking in the (somewhat) cool late December air, I thought I’d post a little recap of my Yuletide adventures for posterity. 

Of course, until fairly recently, I thought I would get to travel home to New Jersey to celebrate the holidays with my family, whom I haven’t seen in over a year now. Alas, COVID is as bad as ever, and ultimately, fate made such a journey all but impossible.

So the best I could manage was a Christmas Eve lunch at Franks, probably the best Italian-American restaurant this city has to offer.  In enlisted my colleague Laren and dragged him up to SoHo for a midday feast of the classic dishes most associated with my upbringing. 

And feast we did. 

First up were Franks’ amazing meatballs and a portion of pickled vegetables. These were followed by gluttonous portions of lunetta à la vodka and crispy chicken parmigiana. And what better way to cap things off than with some cannoli? 

Ten cannoli promptly wrapped into a doggie bag, and I was no longer worried about my contribution to the evening’s main event, hosted by my friends Brandt and Ester, for which my sole and exclusive responsibility was to provide a suitable dessert. 

Decked Halls

With only a few days to go before Christmas, I finally sorted out my Christmas tree today! But don’t worry: most of my other festive decorations have been up for weeks already. And with the near-constant aroma of mulled wine wafting out of the kitchen, plus the merry laugher of guests at our recent parties (remember, public gatherings are limited to two and now restaurants must cease dine-in service at 6pm, meaning my flatmate Simon and I have become perpetual hosts), it’s been a super Christmassy stretch since December began.

I pulled out all my classic decorations at the start of the month and set them up around my living room, augmented by my favorite Christmas lights, which really lend a festive air to the place once illuminated at nighttime. Coupled with the image of a roasting Yule log playing on the television, courtesy of YouTube, it all really feels like a Christmas dream.

And I’ve taken the opportunity to watch classic Christmas flicks or even old episodes of What’s My Line? with some December-appropriate occupations. With the lights aglow and all the rest, I often can’t forego the temptation to simply close my eyes and fall asleep on the living room couch, even though my bed is only a ten second walk away. I just love dozing into dreamland in my little version of the North Pole.

Of course, I can never resist the temptation to add more knickknacks to my collection, so I traipsed out to Prince Edward and Mongkok, as well, where I loaded up. Think poinsettias galore and an elegant snow-white nutcracker and a faux vintage red model pickup truck complete with a miniature Douglas fir loaded in the back.

I even decorated the office again this year. I mean, it’s kind of silly not, too, in my opinion. I spend an enormous amount of time there, so if I expect my December to feel appropriately festive, I need to have something at least remotely Christmassy surrounding me between 9am and 6pm five days a week.

Luckily, my colleague Laren, who has become a really good friend since he joined the company back in August, has gotten into the spirit of the season as well, and doesn’t seem to mind a little Christmas music from time to time. We each have a chocolate advent calendar courtesy of Marks and Spencer, and he’s even joined in the fun of creating a Christmas tree out of the colorful assortment of Nespresso capsules we keep on hand. It was a little tradition I started last year on my own, but it’s nice to have someone equally—perhaps even more—into it as I am.

With so many Christmas cards left over from last year, I didn’t even have to procure any new ones this go-around, though I did load up on some pretty spectacular Hongkong Post stamps to help carry my Yuletide greetings around the world. Thanks to delays in delivery, I’m not sure all (or any) of my cards will actually arrive before Christmas Day itself, but, hey, it’s the thought that counts.

I also ordered a custom-made Christmas bowtie for Fredric, from my friend Diana in New York. It has adorable little penguins on it, and I loved it so much that, upon putting it around his neck, I immediately ordered a second one to send to my sister in New Jersey, for her dog Roxxi. I love knowing our pooches, who sadly will almost certainly never get to meet one another in real life, have matching accessories at this very special time.

Another little aspect of local life that has helped get my Christmas spirits up is the delectable rum hot chocolate on offer over at Happy Alley, my favorite neighborhood coffeeshop, just down the street from my flat. Taking tasty, rich hot chocolate and adding a special Austrian spiced rum, the concoction is a slightly decadent way to begin a chilly day, and you better believe I’ve indulged on multiple (weekend) mornings.

And there have been a few non-Christmas events to add to the official record, including a fantastic, grueling hike to the top of Ngau Ngak Shan and Ma On Shan, two of Hong Kong’s highest mountains, which are situated close enough to each other to allow ambitious hikers to scale both in a single adventure.

It was a tough journey up, complicated slightly by a hangover from the somewhat crazy previous night, but it was so rewarding. And the hike paid a dividend in the form of an abandoned village we explored when we’d finally descended back to earth.

And last weekend, my dear friend’s Celine and Max tied the knot at City Hall—and asked me to be one of their witnesses! It was a supreme honor, and I’ll never forget the beautiful smiles beaming from both of their faces as they said I do, and then celebrated at their lovely Kennedy Town apartment with a select crew of their nearest and dearest.

You better believe I made the newlyweds kiss under the mistletoe—again from Flannel Flowers over in ifc mall—a few nights later when they came by my place for a little dinner chez moi.

Last Thursday, we had our company Christmas party, which has really put me in the holiday mood. And for the first time in several years, we actually got to hold it somewhat close to Christmas itself, instead of early or mid-November, when we’ve traditionally hosted it in the past. You see, we always like to make sure Kevin gets to be a part of it, but since he perennially spends the three month stretch between Thanksgiving and Chinese New Year back in America, that means moving the event much earlier than you’d normally expect a Christmas party. With COVID keeping him out of Hong Kong since March, we were free to book a table close to the big day itself.

We selected Kinship as our venue, after Jenny, Laren and I tested it out one lunch break back in October and decided it would be perfect for the feast. The food was amazing and the company exquisite. And after finishing the last of the Christmas pudding, we all migrated a few meters up the sloping hill of Shelley Street to Al’s Diner for drinks, where we lingered until the mandated 6pm closing time.

So with the holiday itself only days away, I want to take this opportunity to wish you all a safe and merry Christmas! I know we all sincerely hope that by this time next year, our world will be completely back to normal. But in the meantime, I hope you can find the joy and beauty that surrounds us all the time, and that you find much to be grateful for during this very special time!  

Fourth Wave Blues and November News

As you may have heard elsewhere already, the much dreaded Fourth Wave has descended upon Hong Kong. I’m pretty sick of writing about it by now, having covered our first, second and third waves in previous posts.

Anyway, we’re told that in the coming days, there will be more restrictions imposed upon us by the government, the exact nature of the new rules still unknown. If the past is any guidance, they’ll limit the number of people allowed at a table—currently set at four—down to two. They might also play around with the hours, like they did back in late July, mandating restaurants cease dine-in operations from 6pm. Whether the cinemas or gyms or beauty parlors will remain open is still unclear. To be safe, I’m heading to the Grand Ocean shortly to see Blade Runner, in what might prove to be the last chance I have to catch a movie on the big screen for a while.

But enough about the benighted coronavirus. There’s been so much more that has happened over the last few weeks of perhaps my favorite month that I’d much rather fill you in on birthday and Thanksgiving updates, with a liberal sprinkling of some other autumnal highlights.  

Of all the wonderful November events, I guess my birthday takes the cake—pun intended—so I might as well start by summarizing the day for posterity.

I awoke to a few lovely messages on my phone, which set my day on a fantastic course, putting me in a magical mood from the start. My colleague Laren had arrived in work before me that morning and placed an awesome gift on my desk: a portable speaker. I guess he’s gotten to know me pretty well over the past few months, with all the music I play during lulls at the office. And with the dismal built-in speaker included in my work computer not really up to the task of blasting tunes to a suitable level, he hit upon an item that was truly lacking in my life. Let’s just say, I love it. And it’s gotten ample use in its brief period of service.

Two other colleagues, Pauline and Cherry, joined Laren and me for lunch at Café Rangoon, the Burmese-style restaurant near SoHo that I’ve written about a couple of times before. Over a million laughs and some delectable dishes, the four of us had a wonderful feast, including a homemade cheesecake courtesy of Cherry, and the restaurant’s signature Burmese umbrella presented to guests who happen to dine in the venue on their special day.

Post-work, I zipped down to the ferry piers, where I met up with my friend Max for a celebratory beer. He couldn’t join for the dinner I had organized, because he had a soccer game scheduled at 8pm—and if the rumors are true, group sports are another one of the activities that will be axed in the coming  days, so he wanted to squeeze one in. But it was great to briefly connect with him as other friends started to arrive.

Eventually, after Max’s departure, our dinner crew took shape. We headed up to Market S.E.A., another new favorite restaurant of mine, located in ifc mall, with an expansive terrace looking out over Victoria Harbour, plus wonderful Southeast Asian cuisine coupled with some pretty insane happy hour specials. It was great to be with such close friends during increasingly uncertain times to mark the passage of another year.

Last stragglers Gabby and James kept me company until midnight, the current official closing time of the bars, and, apparently, I pocketed a potted cactus because, “it’s technically not stealing if it’s your birthday.” You see, old and wiser.

So my thirty-fourth birthday was definitely a success, and I had little time to prepare for the next late November event a mere two days later, Thanksgiving. You probably know the drill by now. I’ve eschewed the traditional American Thanksgiving and created a bespoke Hong Kong iteration perfectly suited to the specifics of the situation here.

Owing to the glorious weather that normally accompanies this time of year, an indoor celebration would just feel a little wasteful. I mean, how could we not take advantage of the balmy evening breezes that blow through the Valley on a warm November night? Also, tracking down all the ingredients necessary to create a full-on homecooked Thanksgiving meal would just take up too much time without an official public holiday to prepare.

And so, long ago, I struck on the idea that has delighted countless friends for years. Step one: move the party to the roof to take full advantage of the glorious weather. Step two: as the host, procure a turkey from a local rotisserie to ensure at least one element conjures a connection to the American holiday. Step three: every other guest bring a dish of his or her choosing, plus a bottle or two of wine. Step four: place everything on the middle of the table and go to town, potluck style.

This Thanksgiving was one of my favorites ever, with a rollicking crew. We partied until the early hours, and I was reminded in so many way of how grateful I am, 2020 be damned!

So, as the last month of this long year approaches, as the finish line nears, though the last yards of the race will be uncertain, I’d like to thank everybody who wished me many happy returns last week, and reiterate how fortunate I feel to have you all in my life!

Eleventh Heaven

It’s been a weird week and, it hardly needs to be said, a weird year. But regardless of what’s happened or is happening, I always try to make the most of this crazy adventure we call life. And whenever November rolls around, I know it’s time for reflection, with two major milestones that make their annual appearance. At the start of the month, on the ninth, I commemorate the anniversary of my arrival in Hong Kong, and at the end, on the twenty-fourth, I celebrate yet another inevitable birthday.  

Yesterday being the ninth, I just couldn’t resist the opportunity to organize a group dinner to mark the (can you believe it?) eleventh—ELEVENTH!—anniversary of that day now more than a decade in the past when that twenty-two year old hopped off a plan and started his new life.

My life is awesome, COVID be damned. True, 2020 has seen a tone down in international travel and there were brief spurts where our social life here in Hong Kong were pretty drastically curtailed. But we’ve had it lucky. Lockdowns and sheltering in place aren’t something we’ve had to endure, and there’s a part of me that feels that I’ve actually missed out on the atrocious 2020 that so many people have been forced to endure.

I’ve never failed to observe my Hong Kong anniversary in some way, whether it be the mammoth free-flow brunches I organized for my fifth and tenth festivities, or the simpler dinners I’ve scrapped together pretty much every other year. Making this anniversary a bit more special was the fact that it fell on a Monday, which also happened to be the day of the week on that first day, way back in 2009!

So a few weeks ago, I decided it would be good to gather five friends together (six including myself, which is the current cap the Hong Kong government has imposed on restaurant gatherings) for revelry at the notorious Tung Po.

I think I must have written about Tung Po before. Basically, this super friendly local guy named Robbie started a restaurant in a wet market in North Point, serving killer food but also not forgetting that atmosphere can be an equally strong contributor to a good meal. He blasts the music—and takes request from the crowd—all while moonwalking and doing splits for his constantly-entertained clientele. I’ve visited around five times over the years, and, owing to some new friends I met at the Mid-Autumn camping extravaganza last month who are new to Hong Kong, I decided to push forward with planning the eleventh anniversary party in this popular venue.

A little part of me wondered whether this was madness. I’ve only ever stopped by Tung Po on weekends previously. Perhaps, I reckoned, a Monday night visit would lead to boredom, with empty tables and a subdued atmosphere. But, boy, I needn’t had worried! The place was in full swing, and the videos and photographs of the night will help remind me for years to come that this anniversary—on a Monday night in the midst of a global pandemic—was one of the best yet!

Stay tuned for details of my upcoming birthday and Thanksgiving adventures! But in the meantime, know that yours truly has passed the eleven year marker with a rousing success of a party, and the sprint to 2021 has commenced!

This is Halloween!

 

September Affair

I’m standing near Central Ferry Pier 3 drinking a crisp beer on the waterfront. A few friends are coming over shortly and we’ll cross the harbor later to catch a screening of Casablanca on the monumental screen at the Grand Ocean in TST. What a month this September has been! Of course, I just can’t resist the temptation to preserve a few of its top memories for posterity. So here it goes…

It’s actually been quite a wet stretch of weeks, to be honest, including one of the rainiest mornings I can ever recall. I was definitely a bit nervous as my taxi cruised along the elevated highway en route to the office, but, after assessing the situation upon waking, I decided there was no way I was enduring my standard morning tram journey in those conditions!

One of the hallmarks of September in Hong Kong is an ever-so-slight dip in temperature. To an outsider, it probably still seems like a full-fledged midsummer heatwave, but to the well-conditioned, we can clearly discern the drop. That means I’m more willing to go hiking again once this time of year arrives, an activity which I normally scale back—if not altogether avoid—starting at the end of May.

Making the most of things, I took the first Friday of the month off from work and spent the day with my friend Julius. After a hearty breakfast of grilled cheeses and milkshakes from an American-style joint called No Milkshake No Life, we embarked on a little adventure to discover a part of Hong Kong neither of us knew much about.

We hiked up from Hong Kong University MTR Station into the wooded hills of Lung Fu Shan Country Park, eventually coming to Pinewood Battery, an old British army relic built at the turn of the twentieth century.

It was a mildly challenging jaunt, but it was undeniably worthwhile. We stopped a few times to catch our breath—err—I mean, to admire the lovely view. And I was shocked when we finally arrived because it struck me that I’d strolled by the staircase leading up to the site dozens of times before without realizing what lurks up there, since the trail down from Victoria Peak passes just beneath it.

Complete with informative historical panels explaining its significance in the defense of Britain’s former colony in the early 1940s, the former gun pedestals, watch towers and ammunition storerooms all bear silent witness to this almost-forgotten chapter of local history. But it was really fun to discover the place with Julius. It’s yet another irony that he is from here and I’ve lived in the city for close to eleven years, yet somehow neither of us had ever been to the site before.

One Sunday a little bit later in the month, I awoke earlier than expected and—encouraged by blue skies and a balmy breeze—I took Fredric to Victoria Peak, where we had a sensational Indian brunch at Rajasthan Riffles. The incredible number of visitors combined with the temperate September weather convinced me to trek up beyond the standard circular walk of Lugard Road, so we made a beeline to Victoria Peak Garden, a place I hadn’t been for nearly seven years!

It was an absolutely stunning spot, and dog-friendly, to boot. And I’m sure I’ll be back again soon, to bask on the park’s expansive lawns and take in the wonderful vistas awaiting those willing to scale the hills that gives way to its highest vantage points.  

And, as fate would have it, I made some new friends up there, a trio of expats who also had their pooches in tow. After a long while watching them all romp in the garden, we all headed back down to Rajasthan Riffles, where my new friends ordered lunch while I simply sipped a Gunner on the al fresco terrace.

It seems my recollections of any given month consist mostly of movie screenings and meals. And with COVID removing my ability to travel, 2020 has amplified this reality to new heights! So, since I’m about to close out September with a seventh visit to the cinema, let’s journey back to the first of the month and walk through the catalog.

First up was Portrait of a Lady on Fire, an intense French romantic drama that won Best Screenplay at Cannes last year. I followed this up with the devastating documentary For Sama, which provides a first-hand account of the siege of Aleppo. The horrors faced by that city’s unfortunate residents were shocking and downright heart-breaking. But, somehow, the filmmaker managed to keep an optimistic point of view, even as bombs rained down on a near-daily basis.

I also went with my Finnish friend Ilse to see Aki Kaurismäki’s The Other Side of Hope, a 2017 comedy-drama about Middle Eastern refugees trying to forge a new life in Helsinki. Complementing this screening was a wonderful pre-movie dinner on atmospheric Temple Street, plus a good chance to catch up with Ilse, whom I hadn’t seen in quite a long while.

One Tuesday after work, I headed out to Yau Ma Tei to see Bamboo Theatre, a local Hong Kong documentary that really piqued my interest. Having lived here for over a decade, I’m accustomed to seeing the temporary playhouses rise up to complement many a local festival. This narration-less film follows the intricate construction of the structures, before highlighting the Cantonese operas that are showcased within them upon their completion. Finally, it concludes with their destruction, underscoring the ephemeral nature of this intangible element of Hong Kong’s cultural heritage.

Christopher Nolan’s hotly-anticipated Tenet was the next of my movies. I found the work confusing but certainly worthwhile, and I’m definitely glad I caught it at the Grand Ocean, where certain scenes were nothing short of mesmerizing.

But a much rarer opportunity presented itself back at the Cinematheque one Sunday evening. A Russian documentary from 1926, A Sixth Part of the World, was screened as part of a festival entitled Reconstructed Realities. Directed by Dziga Vertov, whose Man With a Movie Camera is one of silent cinema’s most celebrated works, this precursor was spellbinding from start to finish. Ostensibly a propagandic travelogue about the wealth of culture within the broad expanses of the Soviet Union, it was Vertov’s inventive camera angles and editing that kept me rapt from the first frame to the last.

And, as I mentioned earlier, my September movie screenings are going out on a high note tonight with Casablanca, a flick I must have seen at least a hundred times since I first fell in love with it as a fourteen year old. Still, this will only be the second time I’ve been fortunate enough to watch it in a theater, following a screening in one of those art house cinemas hiding in the Latin Quarter during my semester abroad in Paris back in 2007.

Of course, home screenings also play a big part in my life, especially with COVID limiting certain social events. I’ve written before about this new habit I’ve implemented of trying to screen classic movies on the milestone anniversaries of their original releases. And this month, I managed to fit two memorable additions to the list: I Love You Again—the classic screwball comedy from Thin Man stars Myrna Loy and William Powell—which turned eighty on the ninth and Mildred Pierce—Joan Crawford’s Oscar-winning, career-defining vehicle,—which remains indescribably engrossing in spite of hitting seventy-five on Monday.

Other flicks included Queen Christina, Manhattan, Brief Encounter, Here Comes Mr. Jordan, Heaven Can Wait, So Proudly We Hail, The Jungle Princess, Decasia and in a little prelude to Halloween, Cat People and Theatre of Blood.

And, the last of the lot, a sentimental little stunner from 1950 I discovered last night called September Affair, wherein Joan Fontaine and Joseph Cotton play a pair of middle-aged lonely-hearts who unexpectedly meet and fall in love in Italy and have to chose whether to return to their own lives or break free to remain together.

It was, possibly, a touch impractical, yet also suitably passionate, enhanced by its beautiful musical score—including liberal use of the plaintive ballad September Song—and, perhaps best of all, its gorgeous on-location cinematography showcasing Rome, Naples and Florence.

“Alright, alright, alright,” I hear you saying… “Enough with the old movies. Get on with the food!”

Well, as you may recall, when the month kicked off, government regulations still dictated that only a maximum of two patrons could be seated together in a restaurant. Better than nothing, granted, but not the most conducive for social feasts. So, we organized a small office pizza lunch for our newest colleague, Laren, to spend time with all of us together. And it was a great idea!

Jacomax, just across the street from our tower, provided the amazing pizzas, and it was great to have a chance to spend time with Cherry and Pauline, two of our team members whose roles are not desk-based, and, who, thus, make only cameo appearances in the office.

I also found a clever way to navigate the two person limit for a Saturday brunch at Honjo, a swanky Japanese restaurant in Sheung Wan. With a clear glass divider separating me and my friend Mandy from our companions Jay and Dave, we managed to skirt the regulations while still dining in public without breaking the rule.

Post-sushi, it turned into something of a big night, with espresso martinis at the Armoury and a stop at FAB, as well. It’s all fun and games until someone loses his credit card. Unfortunately, that night, that someone was me. But it was a small price to pay for having such a great day!

Still, even with loopholes and clever logistical gymnastics, some events just couldn’t proceed. Sadly, my friend Céline decided to cancel her fortieth birthday party, which I was going to host on the rooftop. We compensated with a Monday lunch at Crystal Jade in IFC. The next day, I was back to the mall for a long overdue birthday lunch for Myles, who had also nixed his birthday celebrations back in August thanks to the uncertain situation here. It was great to treat both these guys to a one-on-one meal and toast to their special days.

But, at long last, later that week, the government finally upped the table limit from two to four—where it still sits today—allowing Jenny, Cherry, Laren and me to enjoy a midday meal at Frites, a Belgian restaurant just up the street from our office. Happy days are here again!

And another memorable meal was right on its heels, when I met up with recently-engaged Sarah and Omar for an exquisite Lebanese feast at Zahrabel over in Wan Chai the next evening. To make it even more memorable, Omar asked me to be one of his groomsmen as we caught up over pre-dinner Margaritas at Coyote, an offer which—needless to say—I immediately accepted. The wedding is set for December 2021 in Campeche, Mexico, and I can hardly wait!

A few Fridays ago, one of our partnered insures took me and Pauline out to Madame Fu in Tai Kwun for a stellar Cantonese lunch. The history of the site, the elegant interior décor, the delicate local specialties on offer and the faultless service from the entire staff all combined for a top-notch repast, and I’m sure Madame Fu has a spot on many a future visitor’s Hong Kong itinerary, once this whole COVID-19 nightmare is firmly behind us and overseas travellers can once again make their way to Hong Kong to visit me!

Jenny, Laren and I even squeezed in another Friday lunch at an eclectic Southeast Asian eatery in IFC called Market SEA, with an expansive outdoor terrace where I wolfed down three softshell crabs in thick yellow curry while basking in the glorious September sun.

And, continuing the culinary tour through Southeast Asia (since a real journey is all but impossible due to travel restrictions), I made a triumphant return to Club Rangoon the next day. The place is finally open for dinner and now allows groups up to four, so I reserved a booth, inviting along Jay, Dave and our friend Kitty. It was a gluttonous occasion, for sure, with far too much food from the Restaurant Week set menu. In fact, Kitty even wound up taking a doggie bag home.

But everything was mouth-watering, and I’m sure this will become a frequent destination of mine! So stuffed was I at the meal’s conclusion that I opted to walk all the way home from SoHo to Happy Valley that night. But, oh, what a meal!

Sunday proved to be the third day in a row of memorable feasting, the destination now transferring from Asia to faraway Europe. A new tapas restaurant opened in Tseung Kwan O, near to where my friends Kathy and Lou (and their adorable two year old daughter Liberty) happen to live. So, we took the opportunity to test it out. From paella and chorizo to crème Catalan and chocolatey churros—and plenty of Sangria, as I probably don’t have to tell you—it was an indulgent marathon of a session for the record books!

And, speaking of indulging, I wanted to write a bit about my delayed embarkation on the ramen train. As of this month, I’m now a near-constant passenger. But I’ve hardly paid it much attention in the past. It’s funny, because I remember people talking about ramen as long ago as my freshman year at ‘Nova. And many of my Hong Kong friends—including some of the best of them—wax poetic about it on a regular basis. Still, for some reason, in spite of sporadic dabbles, I’ve never become a huge fan.

September changed all that.

I think it has to be mostly thanks to Zagin Soba, a Happy Valley ramen specialist that I first sampled back in April, when it had gotten to Thursday one week and I hadn’t yet tried a new lunch place. Knowing that Jenny, Cherry and I had already booked ourselves in for Friday at Jimmy’s Kitchen, it was my last remaining opportunity to squeeze an untried venue into my schedule. And so, working from home and having heard good things, I ventured down for a steaming bowl.

Fast forward to summer and I’m now a frequent caller on the friendly folks at Zagin Soba. I’ve returned no fewer than four times in the past six weeks. But, after initially remaining faithful to my first love, before long I was tempted to sample the goods on offer in plenty of other ramen joints. In fact, during the month of September, three of my new weekly meals have been at ramen places! I can’t believe it took so long to make a devotee out of me!

Funnily enough, a second Japanese cuisine that had also proved elusive until the past few weeks recently appeared on my radar: yakitori. My friend Ana celebrated her birthday last Thursday, so I joined her and her husband Matt at Yardbird, where Hong Kong’s most beautiful people seem to congregate for strong drinks and tasty skewers.

It was my inaugural yakitori experience, and I was blown away by the whole shebang. Yes, I sincerely hope my first visit to Yardbird isn’t my last. And, in an ironic turn of events, the very next day, I found myself at yet another yakitori feast in Wan Chai, this time to celebrate Yvonne’s birthday. Alcohol may have usurped food as the central focus of that event, but it was a night to remember, regardless.

And, of course, no description of this time of year in Hong Kong is complete without mooncakes, those delightful, waistline-expanding morsels which feature so prominently in the Mid-Autumn Festival, which takes place tomorrow.

I may have gone a little overboard this year, but I’m certainly not complaining (nor counting the calories). I bought a box of nut-filled varietals from Chan Yee Jai, a century-old speciality shop near the office in Sheung Wan. And I also picked up some traditional lotus seed and salted duck egg versions from stalwart Kee Wah. I even snagged a chocolate version from the same bakery.

But the best of all just may have been the mini-egg custard mooncakes from the Peninsula, which I received unexpectedly when my friend Hana presented me with a voucher to redeem a free set! Apparently, poor old Hana isn’t a fan, leaving me the most grateful recipient of a re-gift! Happy Mid-Autumn Festival to me! 

There is also a temporary art instalment taking place in Happy Valley now, called Unlucky Lucky. It’s worth checking out—if you have the chance—even if it will only take you ten minutes or so to thoroughly explore all the works, because it’s housed in a historic building over on Village Road, which serves as a home for creative types as they focus on creating new art. It was so great to sneak a peek around last Saturday before heading to Club Rangoon for dinner!

So, as you can see, life is pretty good in Hong Kong at the moment. And with my favorite time of the year just about to begin, I can only cross my fingers and hope things continue in this way! My Halloween decorations will go up tomorrow, and after decorating, I’m heading to the beach over on Lantau for a night of  camping and moon-watching. Jung Chau Jeet Fai Lok, everybody!

Dinner at Five

Last night, I took a blissful moonlit stroll around Victoria Peak with a new friend. The breeze blowing, the clouds drifting overhead, the lush jungle vegetation encroaching upon civilization, a million lights of the metropolis sparkling in the darkness. 

I’ve embarked upon that exact same walk a thousand times. But it never fails to put me in the happiest of moods. And yesterday’s was as good as they come. 

In concluding my last post, I wondered aloud whether Hong Kong was at the nadir of our experience during the COVID-19 pandemic, or if, in fact, the bottom was about to fall out, sending us in a downward spiral of horror. Well, exactly one month later, I’m delighted to confirm that things have markedly improved. We’re not completely through the tough stretch yet. But our case count is steadily dropping, many restrictions have been somewhat eased, and life is slowly—but surely—returning to normal.

And, I’m also happy to report, the month of August was actually quite a memorable little jaunt in spite of it all. For all my fears that the sweeping curbs on public activity the Hong Kong authorities imposed upon its citizenry would all but drain the pleasure of quotidian life, these past weeks have seen more than their fare share of outstanding events. So as September rears it’s head, I thought I’d pause to memorialize some of the good times. 

You may remember that, starting in mid-July, local restaurants were ordered to cease dine-in services starting from 6pm. Well, as an avowed opponent of eating at home, that sweeping restriction caused a little bit of a conundrum for me.

Still, it didn’t take long to find a double-pronged solution. Many days, I simply moved my normal dinner window ahead by several hours, leaving the office around 4:30pm each afternoon so that I could savor a proper evening meal before the mandatory closing time. You’ve heard of dinner at eight, of course. But for the past six weeks, it’s been more like dinner at five. My new nickname is Grandpa Paul. But it sure beats eating at home and having to tidy up after myself.

Still, on other days, I have taken the opportunity to re-focus my efforts on lunchtime, pampering myself with midday feasts and relegating my nighttime meal to a small snack (or, on some occasions when I’ve really indulged, nothing at all).

And a few of these meals really deserve special attention, because they were so phenomenal.

Perhaps the best repast of the month took place on the anniversary of my arrival in Switzerland last summer. Coincidentally, that date is also the anniversary of my first day of work at my company back in 2014. I think you all know that I’m a pretty sentimental guy, so when I realized the auspicious double-whammy was approaching, I booked a table for two at the Swiss Chalet over on Hart Avenue in Tsim Sha Tsui.

I enlisted my friend Elyse, a fondue virgin, to join in the fun, and we veritably gorged on Alpine favorites in the atmospheric dining room. We ordered a generous helping of steak tartare drizzled with Calvados, and selected two distinct caquelons of warm, gooey fondue for our mains. And I’m sure it will come as no surprise that it was all washed down with a gorgeous bottle of Swiss white. 

Somehow, we both summoned the energy for a gluttonous dessert of meringue and zabaglione, complemented by Movenpick ice cream, to cap things off. And I can’t think of a better way to dim the downheartedness of a travel-less summer than by pretending I was back in Lausanne. 

Another occasion I wanted to mark was the postponed Tokyo Olympics. It’s not an exaggeration to say that when 2020 kicked off, the summer extravaganza in the Land of the Rising Sun was perhaps the event to which I was most looking forward. I had fully intended to journey to Japan to bask in the glories of another Olympic Games. And so, to commemorate what might have been, my friend Christina and I sought out some tasty 5:30pm sushi at the Tuck Room—around the corner from my flat in Happy Valley—on what was meant to be the evening of the Closing Ceremony. 

And that wasn’t the only Happy Valley eatery that made a memorable appearance in my August. Locanda dell’Angelo, an Italian favorite literally steps from my door, has somehow eluded me over the past four years since its opening. But at long last, I gave it a whirl. And all I can say is: wow. 

Helmed by a protégé of late celebrity chef Joel Robuchon, Locanda dell’Angelo is normally a dinner-only venue. But due to the dining ban after 6pm, the management made the most welcome decision to create a limited-time lunch set.

So, on a rainy Wednesday mid-August afternoon, I met my friend Rachel for a phenomenal Sicilian feast, crowned with what was almost certainly the most delectable tiramisu I’ve yet found in Hong Kong—and even one that makes my short list of all-time bests.

Small and intimate, with only seats for about twenty diners even in the best of times before the government ordered tables spaced significantly farther apart than normal, Locanda dell’Angelo is a real stunner. And for a brief stretch that day, I felt like I was somewhere in Manhattan, as opposed to the Far East.

It was with great excitement that I learned about the opening of a new Burmese restaurant in SoHo back in early July. I almost instantly reserved a table for four for dinner one Friday night, but—regrettably—by the time the date actually arrived, the government had imposed its restrictions. I compensated by re-scheduling for several weeks later, when I hoped things would have improved to the point of allowing nighttime dining again. Alas, when that second booking rolled around, the ban was still in place.

But, similar to Locanda dell’Angelo, the friendly folks over at Club Rangoon—also originally intended as a dinner-only restaurant—decided to dabble in lunchtime dining. And so, I jumped at the chance to get to know a new colleague, Laren, over tea life salad, curried eggs, mohinga and Shan noodles. 

Let’s just say, I’m sure I’ll return again… And soon. Hopefully for dinner, and hopefully in a larger group, so as to sample even more of their specialties. But back I will be. 

Once 6pm has rolled around and I’ve been kicked out whatever restaurant it was where I’d just been, I naturally wound up on my rooftop, usually with a crisp and refreshing glass of white wine and often with a good book. And the sunsets have been stunning of late, which I guess isn’t much of a surprise.

Most weeknights, with my private happy hour for one concluding after the sun had firmly set and darkness encroached upon the scene, I usually migrated one floor down, into the living room, to indulge in a movie screening. You remember, of course, that the closing of the cinemas for the second time since this pandemic began was another of the hallmarks of the most recent round of limitations. So, without the option of buying a ticket at the movie theater, I naturally wound up binging on the couch.

Thirty of the movies I’ve recently screened featured Olivia de Havilland, the Golden Age superstar whose passing late last month marked the end of an era. I’m not sure I ever intended to delve so deeply into her filmography. But the quality of the movies was just so darn incredible that I never got bored. So I decided to run with it.

I’ll be honest: I always considered myself a pretty big fan of the actress, loving her most iconic pictures like Gone With the Wind, The Adventures of Robin Hood, Hush… Hush, Sweet Charlotte and A Midsummer Night’s Dream. But I realized over this past month just how many amazing classics I’d never caught—and some, shockingly, I’d never even heard of until my research.

What a rich body of work! Here’s just a handful of the famous faces who’ve flickered across my screen of late, acting alongside Dame Olivia: Errol Flynn, Basil Rathbone, Fredric March, Miriam Hopkins, Montgomery Clift, Bette Davis, Mary Astor, James Cagney, Rita Hayworth, Richard Burton, Rosalind Russell, Frank Sinatra, Robert Mitchum, David Niven, Charles Boyer, Paulette Goddard, Jane Wyman, Henry Fonda, James Stewart, Myrna Loy, Jack Lemmon, Leslie Howard and Ronald Reagan.

And several of her movies that I’ve watched for the first time these past weeks have certainly found a place on my list of all-time favorites. Her dual role as identical twins—one wicked, the other virtuous—in a noir nightmare called The Dark Mirror. An Oscar-nominated turn from the lead-up to World War II, as a naïve California schoolteacher who, while chaperoning a class trip to Mexico, falls for a suave immigrant scheming for easy entry to the United States in Hold Back the Dawn. The first of her two Oscar wins, as an unwed mother forced to give up her son in To Each His Own. And as a French aristocrat who just so happens to arrive at a remote country inn outside Paris as a troupe of histrionic thespians seek revenge on a British stage actor who insulted them in James Whales criminally-underappreciated farce The Great Garrick. 

Don’t worry. There were some definite duds among the lot, too, albeit in a fun sort of way. I made sure to include the star-studded disaster sequel Airport ’77 and Irwin Allen’s maligned killer bee travesty The Swarm, neither of which possessed even a glimmer of brilliance yet still somehow managed to be ineffably entertaining. And, all in all, it was a very enjoyable way to muddle through my evenings.

And, when the occasion dictated, I ventured a bit beyond the confines of Olivia de Havilland’s oeuvre. I watched Sunset Boulevard and The Great McGinty on the anniversaries of their original release dates, as they turned seventy and eighty, respectively. And during a morning off thanks to the summer’s first major storm, Typhoon Higos, I screened my obligatory tropical cyclone flick China Seas from 1935, which, coincidentally, had turned eighty-five less than two weeks earlier. 

In other news, the rooftop was the fortunate recipient of an amazing second-hand sofa and several potted plants, courtesy of Elyse and her husband Rob, who, sadly for me, have just moved from Happy Valley to Kennedy Town. Blessed with a gorgeous rooftop here in the Valley, but foregoing outdoor space in their new digs, they were looking to offload the sectional outdoor couch and greenery before moving out. And I must say, it is a most welcome addition here. 

I even hosted a barbecue this past Saturday to officially christen it. It was a wonderful opportunity to gather with friends in a secluded spot—remember, civil gatherings are capped at two people, so it’s only in non-public settings like a private apartment where larger groups are permissible—and spend some glorious time together. 

And the event also served as an informal farewell party for my guests of honor, Elyse and Rob. I know Kennedy Town isn’t terribly far away, but I always looked forward to our spontaneous meetings during morning dog walks and other gambols around our neighborhood. And I know I will miss espying their friendly faces as frequently as I used to.

Oh! And I got a new iPhone for work. It’s crazy to realize it’s been a full two years. But the contract was up for expiry, and a fresh phone came for free with the signing of a renewed agreement, so I’m still in the process of getting used to this toy.

I must say, the camera function is most impressive, indeed. (I guess I’m late to this game, but, man, do I love portrait mode.) It’s a kind of traditional habit of mine that my phone’s home screen photograph is a shot of Fredric while my lock screen captures some spicy Sichuan fare. So, I made it a point to return to Red Pepper for a fiery lunch a day or two after picking up the device. And, of course, my little mutt is always too willing to pose for me. So it didn’t take long before the telephone was properly broken in. 

And I am protecting the thing with two awesome cases I ordered from RedBubble, one featuring a stylized likeness of a besuited Cary Grant sprinting away from that crop duster in the most iconic moment from Hitchcock’s North by Northwest. And a second that splices together most of those censored kisses that feature so memorably in the finale of Cinema Paradiso. I just can’t decide which of these is my favorite, so I’ve fallen into the habit of switching them every few days.

As all of this has been happening, the number of new COVID-19 cases has dropped considerably from that previously-alarming stretch of triple digit daily increases. We’re back down to single-digits now, nine cases having been recorded today. Of course, if the past is anything to go by, we need to remain hyper-vigilant. We went weeks without a single reported new case just before the ongoing third wave appeared out of nowhere. But it’s reassuring to see our efforts paying off.

And we got a little reward for our hard work, when the government announced last week that, starting Friday, restaurants could extend their opening hours for an additional three hours, from six to nine in the evening. And the cinemas—while having to operate at half capacity and without the added appeal of their concession stands—have also been allowed to re-open their doors.

On Thursday afternoon a little before five, I entered Zagin Soba, an exquisite ramen specialist on King Kwong Street, where I savored the last of my grandpa dinners. I must admit, I’d come to enjoy them in a strange sort of way. But I was oh so excited for a return to normalcy that next evening. 

You can bet I hightailed it out of work and made a beeline straight for a restaurant at six sharp! Ironically, I wound up with a tantalising bowl of mussels in white wine and garlic, the same dish that had served as my Bastille Day feast back in mid-July, the last real restaurant dinner I’d savored before the dining constraints.

It was heavenly to be in a restaurant at nighttime again. What a spectacular meal! And a film screening of the Aretha Franklin documentary Amazing Grace at the nearby cinema followed right on its heels, a little before eight.

Dinner and a movie. Seems like old times.

Sunday afternoon, after a sensational helping of dosas at an incredible Indian restaurant in TST East, Rachel and I caught The Last Emperor on the big screen over in Elements. 

And you can bet that my life will be chock full o’ movies for the foreseeable future. I purchased a bunch of tickets today and have a list of quite a few others I’m plotting in my schedule.

Yes, as a new month gets ready to kick off, let’s all work hard to ensure that Hong Kong really has seen the worst of this benighted coronavirus, while vigilantly injecting our social lives with a dose of much needed vivacity. Hopefully there will be lots to look forward to as fall approaches, from the celebrations of the Mid-Autumn Festival to the most welcome dip in temperatures that always accompanies the arrival of the season. Stay safe, everybody, but don’t forget to constantly remind yourself how much beauty still exists all around you!