There's no denying that life has been busy of late. Upon my return from Chiang Mai, I had less than twenty-four hours before an out-of-town visitor descended upon Hong Kong to join me for one of my favorite weekends on our city's social calendar: the combination of SantaCon on Saturday followed by International Race Day on Sunday.
SantaCon 2018
Then, I had but a week left before flying to Boston, where a whirlwind two day business-meets-pleasure extravaganza vanished in a frenzy. The Acela Express whisked me down to Jersey on Monday afternoon, and now—having rolled into New York City for lunch with a client this afternoon and then back to Matawan again—I've finally found enough of a respite to put together this recap of the hectic-yet-glorious weeks that have just passed.
About to pull in to Matawan
And I had better seize the opportunity, because it's Wednesday evening now, and on Friday, I'm headed back to Manhattan to pick up my Christmas visitors—Sarah, Dave and Ally—who are flying in from the UK to spend two weeks gallivanting around the five boroughs and the wilds of the Garden State!
I suppose it's no surprise that a year like this would go out in a manic, feverish fashion, and I'm so excited for the grand finale. But I'm also delighted that the lead-up to the Christmas holiday has been such a rip-roaring adventure...
First up, the Chiang Mai diaries!
Chiang Mai is a sentimental little city for yours truly. After moving to Hong Kong back in 2009, my first big voyage was
when I visited Erin and Emily there over my inaugural Chinese New Year holiday. True, true, I had spent a quick weekend in Manila with my colleague Kevin and our friends Matt and Chris a few weeks earlier. But we arrived late one Friday night and were heading home again by Sunday afternoon. Thus, the Chiang Mai vacation represented my first serious attempt at exploring the glories of Asia. And it was a trip to remember!
With Erin and Emily in Chiang Mai back in February 2010
I was curious to see how the city would hold up, now that nearly nine years had elapsed and I've since been fortunate to explore Malaysia, Singapore, China, Vietnam, Indonesia, India, Burma, Cambodia and Laos—not to mention several other cities in Thailand and the Philippines. Sure, Chiang Mai had dazzled me when there was little to which I could compare it. But how would it fare now? What would I think of it having seen all those other places? Would it continue to rank high on my list of travel destinations?
Well, I'm delighted to report that I still give Chiang Mai an extremely favorable rating. If anything, I love the place even more than I did before, and I hope I don't have to wait another nine years before visit number three.
One thing that's definitely changed since my first trip is the city's accessibility from Hong Kong. If you recall, there were no direct air links between the two places when I last visited, so I wound up flying from Macau to Bangkok and then connecting to my final destination. Now, multiple airlines link the two locations frequently, making it easier than ever to visit.
I was headed back because my friends Jay and Dave were getting married in the hills northwest of the city proper. A few weeks earlier, I had been a witness at their legal wedding in Hong Kong Park, followed by a delightful Saturday brunch at Carbone on Wyndham Street. But this was set to be the big party, and my second Thai wedding in 2018—following Janet and Romain's beach ceremony in Phuket back in August.
I reserved a simple room—only USD 18 per night, including breakfast—at the same spot where Erin, Emily and I had stayed all those years ago: Jonadda Guest House. It was a gesture for old time's sake, because I'm a sentimental kind of a guy, and I thought it would be fitting to start each morning with banana pancakes overlooking the quiet
soi I fell in love with back in 2010. I half-wondered as I confirmed my booking whether I'd have been better off at a slightly fancier place. Let me just say, Jonadda still delivers the goods, with comfortable, immaculately clean rooms in the most phenomenal of locations, the friendliest of staff, the most casual of vibes and—as Erin pointed out when I sent her a photograph of my breakfast—the fluffiest of banana pancakes. Honestly, I don't think it's even worth the risk of taking a gamble on another place for future visits. Whenever I'm in Chiang Mai, I'm staying here.
One of the cutest back streets in town
The week I spent in town was simply perfect. Jay and Dave's friends are wonderful people, from the Hong Kong-based crew I already knew—but got to know much better—to their Australian friends, strangers who treated my like a long-lost brother.
New friends
Jay and Dave asked me if I would officiate at their wedding, reading a narrative of their shared history before overseeing the placing of their rings on one another's fingers. I was honored beyond belief, and standing in front of their shared friends and family on such an important day made this one of the most special experiences of my life.
The bride and groom
They set off lanterns into the blackness of the Thai night, and we all held on until lift-off, releasing our good wishes for the happy couple as individual friendships continued to blossom among the guests.
After the ceremony—complete with the spiciest of Thai repasts—we partied the night away in downtown Chiang Mai, and then most of us lingered on for several more days, partaking in jungle treks, communal feasts, temple visits and even a Muay Thai boxing exhibition!
Typical Chiang Mai
An unbelievable sense of melancholy descended on me as the hour of my departure drew near. I just wanted to stay at Jonadda indefinitely, and my heart felt like it was breaking as I had to force myself to head to the airport.
A farewell ride along the moat
"Alyssa arrives tomorrow," I kept telling myself. And, indeed, it proved the perfect motivation to perk up again.
You see, I mentioned to Alyssa when we first met back in September that SantaCon/International Race Day weekend is second only to Sevens for me as the single most amazing weekend on Hong Kong's social calendar. Since she lives in Daegu, South Korea, with easy flight connections, she vowed to seriously consider a follow-up visit. I'm so happy it all worked out, because Alyssa proved the perfect antidote to take the sting out of leaving charming Chiang Mai.
Her timing was pretty perfect. I had landed around 11pm on Thursday evening and she touched down on Friday just after noon. I left the office during my normal "lunch break window" to meet her at the Airport Express. We rode the ifc elevators up a couple of stories to Crystal Jade and dove right into xiao long bao, shredded chicken in peanut sauce and dan dan noodles—and a cheeky Tsing Tao to celebrate her return to Hong Kong.
Owing to the immense weekend I knew was following, I had a more subdued idea for Friday night: why not head home and decorate my apartment for Christmas? I normally take the first weekend of December to deck my halls with boughs of holly, but, of course, this year, that was impossible. I toyed with the idea of decorating before going to Chiang Mai, but I ultimately decided to wait until my return. It was a great choice!
Santa comes to Hong Kong
Alyssa is a master decorator ("I will drive no matter how far to help my mom get the house ready for the holidays," she told me.) and she seemed to relish to opportunity to get in the Christmas spirit. Two bottles of Prosecco may have helped, as did Fredric's doggie-Santa suits, reindeer antlers and hat. I opted for a tree-less display in Happy Valley this year, since I'd be flying home so early and my dad and I would certainly be procuring one for our Jersey living room. But with all the other candles, Santa hats, lights, snowmen and nativity figures, it looks about as festive as you can get. And you can bet a real fir next year is practically a done deal!
"Deck the halls with boughs of holly..."
Yes, rest assured, the apartment looks great, and a wonderful night was had by all! Post-decorating, we zipped over to a favorite Sichuan restaurant of mine ensconced within Happy Valley's cooked food center, then had a few glasses of wine at a local French bar, and, bumping into Antoine there, continued the party until the early hours!
Late night in Happy Valley
Saturday was SantaCon. Words can't describe this incredible experience. Close your eyes and picture a million—not quite but you know that I mean—friendly, garrulous, tipsy people wandering all across Hong Kong, here a drink, there a drink, everywhere a drink-drink, and it really helped get me into the Christmas spirit.
A horde of Santas coming down the Escalator
Riding the Star Ferry, taking over the Kowloon Waterfront, singing at the top of our lungs on the MTR—if words can't describe SantaCon, perhaps this video is good for the thousands it ought to be worth.
I wasn't even sure we'd make it to Sha Tin the next day, but—perhaps it's not a shock to you—we did. Alyssa won nearly every bet she put down. I had fair-to-middling luck. But by the time the raucous fireworks were shooting off in Penfold Park, I couldn't have cared less.
Sha Tin Racecourse
The weather wasn't as nice as it has been in years past, but we made some new friends, cheered on the Thoroughbreds and saw some amazing horse races.
Marching band following one of the major races
A hearty meal at Sha Tin Inn—does this even surprise you any more?—capped off the magical experience. Chiang Mai couldn't have been further from my mind. I realized again how happy I am to call Hong Kong home, and to be able to share it with friends who appreciate its glories to the same extent that I do!
Satays at Sha Tin Inn
On Monday, after a little market-hopping over in Kowloon, we had a great Cantonese dinner at Pang's Kitchen with my friends Liz and Carol. This Michelin-starred hole in the wall up the street from my apartment was one of Happy Valley's best kept secrets until it garnered that first star several years back. Now, reservations are essential if you want a prime time dining slot. But still reasonably priced in spite of its newfound fame, Pang's Kitchen is a real winner.
Pang's Kitchen
Alyssa flew out on Tuesday afternoon, and the week just vanished after that. One last Wednesday evening at Happy Valley Racecourse, some quality time with Fredric in the flat, Friday night dinner and drinks with Sarah and Joel and my flight to Boston on Saturday!
"Up on the rooftop..."
It's kind of funny, but before last November, I hadn't been to Boston in more than ten years. Now, thanks to a client being based there, I've visited three times. And it looks like future visits are in the cards. That is absolutely fine by me, because I think Beantown is a very charming city, and I have a good number of friends living there. I've really enjoyed mixing my work visits in with a pinch of sightseeing and a dash of catching up with old pals.
Good old Boston
This time, my colleague—and very good friend—Kevin picked me up at Logan and drove me out to his suburban home in Millis, where he and his wife Erica now live. It was a great night, sitting under the lights of their Christmas tree, watching Saturday Night Live and catching up.
Kevin and Erica's Christmas mugs
We spent Sunday walking the historic Freedom Trail, hitting up the Boston Common, the Massachusetts State House, Granary Burial Ground, Old South Meeting House, the Old State House, the sight of the Boston Massacre, Faneuil Hall, Paul Revere's House, the Old North Church, the Bunker Hill Monument and the USS Constitution!
USS Constitution
Boston is just such a beautiful, clean city, and the crisp winter air was surprisingly pleasant! However, after the sun started setting in the mid-afternoon, the wind picked up and the temperature began to drop.
Boston charm
Kevin and I found respite in the atmospheric bar of the Liberty Hotel, housed in the former Charles Street Jail and festooned with upside down Christmas trees suspended from the antique ceiling. I hope to stay at the Liberty on one of my subsequent trips to Boston, but this time, I chose the Langham due to its proximity to the office I'd be visiting the following morning. So after a few pints, Kevin dropped me off at the stately hotel housed in the old Federal Reserve Bank of Boston, where I'd be spending the night.
Upside down Christmas trees in the Liberty Hotel
The weather had really deteriorated by this point, with cold rain battering down. Still, I braved the precipitation to find a place to eat, passing Quincy Market's illuminated tree before selecting a nearby branch of Boston icon Legal Seafood. Combatting the chills with a hearty bowl of New England clam chowder and a tasty crab cake, I savored my last night in town, weather be damned!
Christmas tree near Quincy Market
My meeting went well on Monday morning—and it even started snowing as I walked from hotel to office—and after a great lunch with my old pal Jimmy at a steakhouse called Mooo, I was on the Acela Express barreling down the northeast corridor.
Delicious dumplings at Mooo
Trusty dad was waiting for me at the Matawan train station, and the next day, as I expected, we selected our Fraser fir and are busy getting the house ready for our visitors! The house is decked for Christmas, and I couldn't be more excited for my first American yuletide since 2015!
