The Year of the Wedding

I know that for years to come, when I look back among all the memories of 2018, the sheer number of weddings I attended will make it stick out like a sore thumb. I wound up celebrating friends' marriages in four countries across three continents, all over the course of the second half of the year. Heck, my friends Jay and Dave actually got hitched twice, once for legal purposes in Hong Kong and again as a good excuse for a party in Thailand. Including both of these, the final 2018 nuptial tally sits at six! Yes, if 2016 was the Year of the Visitor, this one was definitely the Year of the Wedding.

But there was a lot more to the year than weddings. It was filled with good friends, good food and lots of travel. I hit up Dubai for the first time, spent another great week in China, entertained old friends in Hong Kong, became a permanent resident of the place I call home, and managed to return to the States a whopping four times! What a year it's been!

As 2018 goes out on a high note—with a trio of overseas visitors spending Christmas and New Year's in New York and New Jersey—I'd like to just pause for a moment to remember all the high points of the year.

January

The first of countless Sichuan meals in 2018!

February

I flew halfway 'round the world to go to the opera; it was a seriously good decision that called for champagne at intermission.

March

I participated in a panel discussion on working in Hong Kong, hosted by the Villanova School of Business.

April

One of my proudest moments of 2018 was becoming a Hong Kong permanent resident!

May

Meet Buddy... Apparently Fredric has a twin in Happy Valley!

June

It took nearly nine years for me to finally set eyes on the Great Wall of China!

July

The first wedding of the year was when my friends Janet and Romain tied the knot in Phuket, Thailand. 

August

One of two weddings in August: celebrating Erica and Kevin's union on gorgeous Cape Cod.

September

Glorious September weather was the perfect excuse to take a nice long Hong Kong hike. 

October

Handing out candy to trick-or-treaters with my cousin Vicki in Brooklyn for the second Halloween in a row!

November

My cousin Michelle got married in Spring Lake, New Jersey, in November.

December

The last wedding of the year was one for the books, in the hills of Chiang Mai, Thailand!

A Decidedly Delirious December

There's no denying that life has been busy of late. Upon my return from Chiang Mai, I had less than twenty-four hours before an out-of-town visitor descended upon Hong Kong to join me for one of my favorite weekends on our city's social calendar: the combination of SantaCon on Saturday followed by International Race Day on Sunday.

SantaCon 2018

Then, I had but a week left before flying to Boston, where a whirlwind two day business-meets-pleasure extravaganza vanished in a frenzy. The Acela Express whisked me down to Jersey on Monday afternoon, and now—having rolled into New York City for lunch with a client this afternoon and then back to Matawan again—I've finally found enough of a respite to put together this recap of the hectic-yet-glorious weeks that have just passed.

About to pull in to Matawan

And I had better seize the opportunity, because it's Wednesday evening now, and on Friday, I'm headed back to Manhattan to pick up my Christmas visitors—Sarah, Dave and Ally—who are flying in from the UK to spend two weeks gallivanting around the five boroughs and the wilds of the Garden State!

I suppose it's no surprise that a year like this would go out in a manic, feverish fashion, and I'm so excited for the grand finale. But I'm also delighted that the lead-up to the Christmas holiday has been such a rip-roaring adventure...

First up, the Chiang Mai diaries!

Chiang Mai is a sentimental little city for yours truly. After moving to Hong Kong back in 2009, my first big voyage was when I visited Erin and Emily there over my inaugural Chinese New Year holiday. True, true, I had spent a quick weekend in Manila with my colleague Kevin and our friends Matt and Chris a few weeks earlier. But we arrived late one Friday night and were heading home again by Sunday afternoon. Thus, the Chiang Mai vacation represented my first serious attempt at exploring the glories of Asia. And it was a trip to remember!

With Erin and Emily in Chiang Mai back in February 2010

I was curious to see how the city would hold up, now that nearly nine years had elapsed and I've since been fortunate to explore Malaysia, Singapore, China, Vietnam, Indonesia, India, Burma, Cambodia and Laos—not to mention several other cities in Thailand and the Philippines. Sure, Chiang Mai had dazzled me when there was little to which I could compare it. But how would it fare now? What would I think of it having seen all those other places? Would it continue to rank high on my list of travel destinations?

Well, I'm delighted to report that I still give Chiang Mai an extremely favorable rating. If anything, I love the place even more than I did before, and I hope I don't have to wait another nine years before visit number three.

One thing that's definitely changed since my first trip is the city's accessibility from Hong Kong. If you recall, there were no direct air links between the two places when I last visited, so I wound up flying from Macau to Bangkok and then connecting to my final destination. Now, multiple airlines link the two locations frequently, making it easier than ever to visit.

I was headed back because my friends Jay and Dave were getting married in the hills northwest of the city proper. A few weeks earlier, I had been a witness at their legal wedding in Hong Kong Park, followed by a delightful Saturday brunch at Carbone on Wyndham Street. But this was set to be the big party, and my second Thai wedding in 2018—following Janet and Romain's beach ceremony in Phuket back in August.

I reserved a simple room—only USD 18 per night, including breakfast—at the same spot where Erin, Emily and I had stayed all those years ago: Jonadda Guest House. It was a gesture for old time's sake, because I'm a sentimental kind of a guy, and I thought it would be fitting to start each morning with banana pancakes overlooking the quiet soi I fell in love with back in 2010. I half-wondered as I confirmed my booking whether I'd have been better off at a slightly fancier place. Let me just say, Jonadda still delivers the goods, with comfortable, immaculately clean rooms in the most phenomenal of locations, the friendliest of staff, the most casual of vibes and—as Erin pointed out when I sent her a photograph of my breakfast—the fluffiest of banana pancakes. Honestly, I don't think it's even worth the risk of taking a gamble on another place for future visits. Whenever I'm in Chiang Mai, I'm staying here.

One of the cutest back streets in town

The week I spent in town was simply perfect. Jay and Dave's friends are wonderful people, from the Hong Kong-based crew I already knew—but got to know much better—to their Australian friends, strangers who treated my like a long-lost brother.

New friends

Jay and Dave asked me if I would officiate at their wedding, reading a narrative of their shared history before overseeing the placing of their rings on one another's fingers. I was honored beyond belief, and standing in front of their shared friends and family on such an important day made this one of the most special experiences of my life.

The bride and groom

They set off lanterns into the blackness of the Thai night, and we all held on until lift-off, releasing our good wishes for the happy couple as individual friendships continued to blossom among the guests.

After the ceremony—complete with the spiciest of Thai repasts—we partied the night away in downtown Chiang Mai, and then most of us lingered on for several more days, partaking in jungle treks, communal feasts, temple visits and even a Muay Thai boxing exhibition!

Typical Chiang Mai

An unbelievable sense of melancholy descended on me as the hour of my departure drew near. I just wanted to stay at Jonadda indefinitely, and my heart felt like it was breaking as I had to force myself to head to the airport.

A farewell ride along the moat

"Alyssa arrives tomorrow," I kept telling myself. And, indeed, it proved the perfect motivation to perk up again.

You see, I mentioned to Alyssa when we first met back in September that SantaCon/International Race Day weekend is second only to Sevens for me as the single most amazing weekend on Hong Kong's social calendar. Since she lives in Daegu, South Korea, with easy flight connections, she vowed to seriously consider a follow-up visit. I'm so happy it all worked out, because Alyssa proved the perfect antidote to take the sting out of leaving charming Chiang Mai.

Her timing was pretty perfect. I had landed around 11pm on Thursday evening and she touched down on Friday just after noon.  I left the office during my normal "lunch break window" to meet her at the Airport Express. We rode the ifc elevators up a couple of stories to Crystal Jade and dove right into xiao long bao, shredded chicken in peanut sauce and dan dan noodles—and a cheeky Tsing Tao to celebrate her return to Hong Kong.

Owing to the immense weekend I knew was following, I had a more subdued idea for Friday night: why not head home and decorate my apartment for Christmas? I normally take the first weekend of December to deck my halls with boughs of holly, but, of course, this year, that was impossible. I toyed with the idea of decorating before going to Chiang Mai, but I ultimately decided to wait until my return. It was a great choice!

Santa comes to Hong Kong

Alyssa is a master decorator ("I will drive no matter how far to help my mom get the house ready for the holidays," she told me.) and she seemed to relish to opportunity to get in the Christmas spirit. Two bottles of Prosecco may have helped, as did Fredric's doggie-Santa suits, reindeer antlers and hat. I opted for a tree-less display in Happy Valley this year, since I'd be flying home so early and my dad and I would certainly be procuring one for our Jersey living room. But with all the other candles, Santa hats, lights, snowmen and nativity figures, it looks about as festive as you can get. And you can bet a real fir next year is practically a done deal!

"Deck the halls with boughs of holly..."

Yes, rest assured, the apartment looks great, and a wonderful night was had by all! Post-decorating, we zipped over to a favorite Sichuan restaurant of mine ensconced within Happy Valley's cooked food center, then had a few glasses of wine at a local French bar, and, bumping into Antoine there, continued the party until the early hours!

Late night in Happy Valley

Saturday was SantaCon. Words can't describe this incredible experience. Close your eyes and picture a million—not quite but you know that I mean—friendly, garrulous, tipsy people wandering all across Hong Kong, here a drink, there a drink, everywhere a drink-drink, and it really helped get me into the Christmas spirit.

A horde of Santas coming down the Escalator

Riding the Star Ferry, taking over the Kowloon Waterfront, singing at the top of our lungs on the MTR—if words can't describe SantaCon, perhaps this video is good for the thousands it ought to be worth.

I wasn't even sure we'd make it to Sha Tin the next day, but—perhaps it's not a shock to you—we did. Alyssa won nearly every bet she put down. I had fair-to-middling luck. But by the time the raucous fireworks were shooting off in Penfold Park, I couldn't have cared less.

Sha Tin Racecourse

The weather wasn't as nice as it has been in years past, but we made some new friends, cheered on the Thoroughbreds and saw some amazing horse races.

Marching band following one of the major races

A hearty meal at Sha Tin Inn—does this even surprise you any more?—capped off the magical experience. Chiang Mai couldn't have been further from my mind. I realized again how happy I am to call Hong Kong home, and to be able to share it with friends who appreciate its glories to the same extent that I do!

Satays at Sha Tin Inn

On Monday, after a little market-hopping over in Kowloon, we had a great Cantonese dinner at Pang's Kitchen with my friends Liz and Carol. This Michelin-starred hole in the wall up the street from my apartment was one of Happy Valley's best kept secrets until it garnered that first star several years back. Now, reservations are essential if you want a prime time dining slot. But still reasonably priced in spite of its newfound fame, Pang's Kitchen is a real winner.

Pang's Kitchen

Alyssa flew out on Tuesday afternoon, and the week just vanished after that. One last Wednesday evening at Happy Valley Racecourse, some quality time with Fredric in the flat, Friday night dinner and drinks with Sarah and Joel and my flight to Boston on Saturday!

"Up on the rooftop..."

It's kind of funny, but before last November, I hadn't been to Boston in more than ten years. Now, thanks to a client being based there, I've visited three times. And it looks like future visits are in the cards. That is absolutely fine by me, because I think Beantown is a very charming city, and I have a good number of friends living there. I've really enjoyed mixing my work visits in with a pinch of sightseeing and a dash of catching up with old pals.

Good old Boston

This time, my colleague—and very good friend—Kevin picked me up at Logan and drove me out to his suburban home in Millis, where he and his wife Erica now live. It was a great night, sitting under the lights of their Christmas tree, watching Saturday Night Live and catching up.

Kevin and Erica's Christmas mugs

We spent Sunday walking the historic Freedom Trail, hitting up the Boston Common, the Massachusetts State House, Granary Burial Ground, Old South Meeting House, the Old State House, the sight of the Boston Massacre, Faneuil Hall, Paul Revere's House, the Old North Church, the Bunker Hill Monument and the USS Constitution!

USS Constitution

Boston is just such a beautiful, clean city, and the crisp winter air was surprisingly pleasant! However, after the sun started setting in the mid-afternoon, the wind picked up and the temperature began to drop.

Boston charm

Kevin and I found respite in the atmospheric bar of the Liberty Hotel, housed in the former Charles Street Jail and festooned with upside down Christmas trees suspended from the antique ceiling. I hope to stay at the Liberty on one of my subsequent trips to Boston, but this time, I chose the Langham due to its proximity to the office I'd be visiting the following morning. So after a few pints, Kevin dropped me off at the stately hotel housed in the old Federal Reserve Bank of Boston, where I'd be spending the night.

Upside down Christmas trees in the Liberty Hotel

The weather had really deteriorated by this point, with cold rain battering down. Still, I braved the precipitation to find a place to eat, passing Quincy Market's illuminated tree before selecting a nearby branch of Boston icon Legal Seafood. Combatting the chills with a hearty bowl of New England clam chowder and a tasty crab cake, I savored my last night in town, weather be damned!

Christmas tree near Quincy Market

My meeting went well on Monday morning—and it even started snowing as I walked from hotel to office—and after a great lunch with my old pal Jimmy at a steakhouse called Mooo, I was on the Acela Express barreling down the northeast corridor.

Delicious dumplings at Mooo

Trusty dad was waiting for me at the Matawan train station, and the next day, as I expected, we selected our Fraser fir and are busy getting the house ready for our visitors! The house is decked for Christmas, and I couldn't be more excited for my first American yuletide since 2015! 

November Finale

Greetings from newly-minted thirty-two year old Paul, who's sitting at Gate 214 at Hong Kong International Airport, waiting to board his flight to Chiang Mai. My friends Jay and Dave are getting married—the sixth wedding of the year for me!—and I'm really looking forward to returning to this charming city in the north of Thailand.

Before I do, I just wanted to reflect on how grateful I feel this time of year. After the ninth anniversary of my arrival in Hong Kong came and went, I knew Thanksgiving and my birthday would both be right on its heels. Preparations got underway pretty much immediately.

I've had Thanksgiving on my Happy Valley rooftop every year since 2011, when the previous inhabitant of my apartment, Amy, hosted my twenty-fifth birthday here. Starting the next year, I took up hosting duties myself, and now the tradition is firmly enshrined. This time, I ordered the turkey from French favorite La Rotisserie, and the bird was to die for! 

A major apartment renovation got in the way only slightly. Since the re-plastering and painting only occurred inside—and thanks to perhaps the best late November weather I've seen in nine years—our rooftop Thanksgiving tradition was able to continue unharmed. I must say, it certainly was one of the best yet, with twenty hungry guests who left full and tipsy! (There may have been a little Bohemian Rhapsody singing towards the end of the night, too...)

The very next day, the roof repair work started—and is still ongoing—so my birthday was a full day affair away from home.

The big day fell on a Saturday this year, so I really wanted to take advantage by organizing several events spread throughout the day—and throughout Hong Kong! My friend Debbie happened to be in town from Singapore because her family was celebrating her mother's seventieth that weekend. Unable to join the main event, she instead treated me to an otherworldly Sichuan dinner Friday night at Qi, a Michelin-starred spice mecca in Wan Chai. We capped off the evening with cocktails in SoHo at a place called Bocadito, where my friend Gabby works as a bartender. When midnight struck, I was serenaded by Debbie and Gabby—and plied with far too many drinks!

The first event the next day was dim sum at Aberdeen's iconic Jumbo Floating Restaurant. I took my dad and sister for dim sum here on my thirtieth birthday, and have been back several times since. In my book, it's one of this city's best dim sum experiences, both in terms of food and wow factor from the atmosphere. My friends Jay and Dave—yes, the lovebirds tying the knot in Chiang Mai this weekend—joined me and my buddy Kris, as we stuffed ourselves with basket after delectable basket of all of our favorite bite-sized dumplings, buns and rolls.

And we capped off our meal with Jumbo's famous costumed photography session, where you're dressed in Qing Dynasty garb before having your picture printed on a souvenir plate. It's a touristy, ridiculous, kitchsy, absolutely wonderful experience, and I now have three of these puppies on proud display!

The party continued in Central, where a flock of others joined me at the Beer Bay, a cheap and cheerful al fresco waterfront bar with heaps of beers in both bottle and draft formats. I was thrilled that so many friends were able to stop by, and although a subset would be catching the ferry to Cheung Chau with me for a fresh seafood dinner, we pushed back our departure by a few boats so we could soak up Beer Bay's casual, convivial ambiance a little while longer.

I was adamant that we would take the "ordinary ferry" to Cheung Chau, as I really prefer it to the slightly quicker, much less charming "fast ferry." With its welcoming aft deck open to the skies above, it's a delightful fifty-five minute ride compared to the fast ferry's thirty-five minute claustrophobic, stay-in-your-seat snore-fest. Sure, you get there a little bit more quickly the fast way, but there's no pleasure in the journey. I'll take an extra twenty minutes of bliss, thank you very much!

I bought two bottles of Prosecco for us all to share on the deck, and as expected, it was a pitch-perfect jaunt from bustling Central to toytown Cheung Chau.

Not knowing in advance the precise number of dinner guests, I hadn't booked a table and was—to be honest—a little nervous when we strolled up to a very crowded New Baccarat. Not to worry! The friendly staff immediately seated us, albeit inside, which was slightly disappointing. But after about ten minutes, a big waterfront table opened up, and we promptly migrated to this new prime real estate.

We ordered a ton of amazing seafood and my friend James and I even picked the fresh garoupa straight from the outdoor tank. With such a great group of people feasting in one of my favorite places Hong Kong has to offer, I was in seventh heaven.

As I'm sure I don't have to tell you, some late night revelry followed in Lan Kwai Fong, and I'm so happy the day worked out pretty much perfectly from start to finish. Welcome to thirty-two, Parisi!

Well, they've just announced our flight is ready for boarding, so keep your eyes on this space for an imminent update of my adventures in Chiang Mai, and thank you to everybody who sent their kind wishes—or was able to come out in person—to make my thirty-second birthday so fantastic!

Nine on Nine

It's hard for me to write about this day without descending into a rambling string of clichés. But sometimes the best way to deal with a temptation is just embrace it. For as I gratefully mark the ninth anniversary of the date I first set foot in Hong Kong, I'm just so darn appreciative that all the stars have aligned, and I've gotten to spend such an astounding amount of incredible time in a place I love so much.

It was November 9th, 2009, and I remember thinking, "Here you are, just twenty-two years old, scarcely six months out of college, already having explored the wilds of Europe, Africa and South America! Now, it's time to tackle Asia!" What a schoolboy's view of life I possessed! I'm glad to say, I think I've matured greatly since that day. And, yet, at times I wish I could endow my thirty-two year old self with just a pinch of that naive, starry-eyed innocence (while never again summoning the pretentiousness).

All those internal changes that have taken place in the ensuing nine years are almost entirely thanks to Hong Kong, by which, of course, I mean, due to the people, situations and opportunities that have come my way because I stepped off that plane nine years ago. So yam bui, Hong Kong! Bottom's up! And thanks for all the lessons!

Last year, I missed this date while I was home in New York. And this time, I almost repeated things, with my most recent trip home nearly causing a similar fate. I only got back to town yesterday, a little over twenty-four hours ago. And, as is almost unnecessary to write, it was a fantastic trip home.

I mean, how could I not love spending my second consecutive Halloween in the good old USA, trick or treating with my cousins in Brooklyn and indulging in a little late night partying on the Upper West Side with Heidi and a gaggle of new friends.

The real catalyst for my trip home, however, was my cousin Michelle's wedding, my fourth this year! She married her sweetheart, Vin, in a gorgeous ceremony in Spring Lake, New Jersey on a drizzly Friday, but somehow, the weather held out and the venue—The Mill—just might have served the best wedding food I've ever had. 

To make the event even more memorable, an emergency alarm was triggered at one point, which mandated a visit from the local fire department, complete with blaring sirens, red trucks and one amazing photo op! Michelle is blessed with a phenomenal attitude, and I can imagine many other brides losing their temper over such an intrusion on the biggest moment of their lives. Michelle not only took it all in stride but seized the opportunity to hop in the driver's seat of the truck and blow the horn a few times! 

I'm not going to lie, I was plagued with one of the worst hangovers of my life the following day, but it was well worth it. And my dad did cook me a nice lobster for dinner once I'd finally managed to drag myself out of bed.

On Sunday, New York City was putting on its annual marathon, and my friend Heidi had urged me to come in to witness the spectacle. She ranks Marathon Day as one of her top days on New York's social calendar, and I must say, I now understand why.

With pitch-perfect fall weather, discreet mimosas in thermoses and a load of good company, it was one unforgettable day, and knowing that a few of my friends were running in the massive race helped ramp up the excitement factor for me. I hope it wasn't my last encounter with the New York City Marathon!

Monday was a marathon of its own for Heidi and I, in a way... She had booked the day off work, because we wanted to take some time to tick off a few major items from our New York To Do List. Although the Morgan Library was closed, we made a post-breakfast journey from the Upper West Side to the Museum of the City of New York on the Upper East Side to learn more about the place where we both spend (and have spent) a great deal of time. The museum even has the bronzed tap shoes of dance legend Bill 'Bojangles' Robinson on display, in addition to plenty of other historical items and informative panels, so it certainly was an entertaining, educational morning for the two of us.

Afterwards, we rushed down to Midtown, for a planned lunch at Barbetta, which also turned out to be closed. Instead, we ducked into Beppo, which Heidi had been to before and granted her seal of approval. What can I say? My friends have good taste. It was a wonderful lunch, with homemade pasta and mozzarella en carozza, capped off with delicious zabaglione and all washed down with two lovely bottles of red from the restaurant's incredible (and incredibly reasonable!) wine list.

We taxied back up to Heidi's, and I made impromptu plans to meet Ryan at nearby Lincoln Center. It would be our only chance to catch up during this trip, so as short as it would have to be, there was no way I was skipping it. Two glasses of wine later, Ryan and I were on a downtown train so he could head home to Jersey and I could meet Jackie for a quick drink in Grand Central Station, at its famous Oyster Bar. It was a little rushed, to be sure, but catching up with my old pals is one of my major objectives each time I return home. And although I sincerely hope to have more quality time with both Ryan and Jackie when I am back again next month for Christmas, these two encounters were hurriedly memorable in their own quirky way.

From Grand Central, I had to head back uptown to 76th Street, where I was again meeting Heidi and two of her friends to try our luck at catching Woody Allen's weekly jazz show at Cafe Carlyle. You see, Woody performs each and every Monday during most of the year (and has done so for years), but somehow I only became aware of the tradition fairly recently. Ever since, attending one of his concerts has been a major goal of mine.

Booking a table here can be pretty pricey, but a limited number of bar seats—nine to be exact—are available on a first-come-first-served basis. Owing to the unanticipated closures of both the Morgan Library and Barbetta, I was prepared to be disappointed for a third time. But our quartet was close enough to the front of the standby line that my hopes sprang back up again when I did the mental math.

Suddenly, the doors of the cafe opened and a bouncer came out to announce the entry procedures. "For those of you who booked a table," he bellowed, "you can simply come in, let me know your name, and come back before the performance starts. For those trying for standby bar seats, I only have seven available tonight, because two seats are already reserved for friends of Woody Allen." He then proceeded to summarize the cover charges and drink minimums for the bar.

With two of the nine seats out of play, I again thought we might not get in, but the group at the front of the line shockingly opted not to attend after learning about the exorbitant entry fee. That meant we were now the first bar hopefuls in the queue, and the bouncer promptly seated us at the four best stools in the house!

Heidi and I ordered a couple of Sidecars, while her friends opted for a bottle of wine. And I just took the time to admire the beautiful hand-painted murals by Marcel Vertes while we waited for the show to start and the tables to begin to fill up with patrons.

We started talking with a friendly German tourist seated beside us who had visited the Cafe twenty or so years ago as a youngster on a Monday when Woody Allen was unexpectedly sick. Now back, he was just as determined to finally catch the show as we were!

While enjoying my cocktail, Heidi pointed over my shoulder, and I turned to see Woody Allen himself seated at the table behind me, putting his clarinet together as he chatted with his buddies. It was one of those impossibly surreal New York moments that will stick with me forever.

The show started, as Woody and his band played a mixture of old favorites and obscure tunes. Cocktails continued flowing freely, with a Bronx, a Manhattan and a Gibson all on the rotation, while the intimate space was filled with dixieland jazz.

It was an expensive night, make no doubt, but also an incredible experience. And I have about a million photographs to prove it. You can be sure that I went to sleep that night about as satisfied and content as I've ever been.

Tuesday was Election Day, my last full day at home, and you can bet my dad, Danii and I made our way to our local polling station in the heavy rain to let our voices be heard. Though I've voted absentee in every major election since moving to Hong Kong, it was a very special feeling to step into the voting booth and cast my ballot in my home state.

On Wednesday, I had to make my way to JFK to fly back to Hong Kong, but the glorious autumn weather—and the equally glorious autumn leaves that greeted me during a morning jaunt through Central Park—made it a little bittersweet to board that plane.

Of course, it's sheer heaven to be writing this curled up on my bed with Fredric, though I must confess I did have overly ambitious plans for a rooftop party tonight to celebrate the occasion. I still entertained the notion late into the afternoon, but a reality check in the form of a tinge of jet-lag convinced me to scale things back considerably—and what a great choice it turned out to be!

Just after six, I met my good friend Liz downstairs from my office for a bowl of the most amazing local noodles this town has to offer, at least in my opinion. The joint is called Kiu Heung Yuan, and the stuff they dish out is simply killer. The noodles themselves achieve a perfect texture, but it's the sauce and toppings that send me to nirvana every time—a blend of Sichuan pickles, homemade gravy, peanuts, and your choice from the likes of fatty beef slices, pork shoulder, ribs and beef shank to complete the mix. If not for a self-imposed rule that only allows me to visit the place one time a week, it's possible I'd be a daily caller on the friendly folks at Kiu Heung Yuan!

Post-dinner, I hopped on the tram home from Sheung Wan to Happy Valley, imagining all the landmarks of the island wishing me a happy anniversary as we glided over the tracks. And once I was home, I switched on Love is a Many-Splendored Thing, the 1955 American classic movie, a great deal of which was actually shot on location in the Pearl of the Orient. As my little mutt and I sat on our couch soaking in the bygone beauty of old Hong Kong while spotting the precious vestiges that mercifully remain unchanged sixty some-odd years after its release, I kept feeling waves of chills surging through my body.

Although I love my city pretty much every day I'm here, there's something extra special about the ninth of November that ramps up the nostalgia factor and really grabs me by the heart. I remember all the strangers who've become old pals, all the home friends who've come to visit, all the favorite restaurants that have closed their doors, all the roommates who have come and gone, all the moments that, strung together, encapsulate the last nine years of my life.

But I think the thing I love most of all is the promise of untold adventure this place still has hiding  up her sleeve. Yes, maybe the reason this date is so special to me is the perennial realization that I still have got a dash of twenty-two year old Paul lurking under my skin, and today's the day when he finds his way to the surface to remind the old man he's still there, always ready for the next adventure!