Happy Mid-Autumn Festival everybody! I know I've written about this holiday before, but I must say, out of all of Hong Kong's incredible festivals, this one certainly makes the short list for my top pick. It surely has to be the one that physically transforms the city to the greatest extent, turning the SAR into a colorful canvas completely decked to the nines.
Three of the most noteworthy parts of any proper Mid-Autumn celebration are the gorgeous lantern displays festooning the town, a nocturnal beach visit under the brightest full moon of the year and Tai Hang's "fire dragon" parade. And this year, I made it a goal to hit up everything.
Lanterns and lights in Victoria Park
Of course, another ubiquitous staple of the festival is the mooncake, a traditional Chinese delicacy that consists of a sweet lotus seed paste and unbroken salted duck egg yolks encased in a pastry shell. I've actually grown to love these strange sweets over the years.
And I was lucky this go around because one day last week, our entire office received a Mid-Autumn Festival care package which included fruit, chocolates and a couple of mooncakes. I indulged almost immediately, to the befuddlement of my new gweilo colleagues. (Most Westerners, myself for a time included, usually find mooncakes bizarre at best and repulsive at worst.)
Mooncakes, at least according to legend, were once used to surreptitiously smuggle secret messages between Chinese soldiers planning to oust their Mongol invaders. And so every year, they make their appearance on shelves all over town. Even Starbucks and Häagen-Dazs have gotten in on the craze, creating less traditional (though some would argue far tastier) mooncakes.
And I was lucky this go around because one day last week, our entire office received a Mid-Autumn Festival care package which included fruit, chocolates and a couple of mooncakes. I indulged almost immediately, to the befuddlement of my new gweilo colleagues. (Most Westerners, myself for a time included, usually find mooncakes bizarre at best and repulsive at worst.)
Mooncakes, at least according to legend, were once used to surreptitiously smuggle secret messages between Chinese soldiers planning to oust their Mongol invaders. And so every year, they make their appearance on shelves all over town. Even Starbucks and Häagen-Dazs have gotten in on the craze, creating less traditional (though some would argue far tastier) mooncakes.
More than your traditional lantern
On Sunday night, I made my way to Victoria Park to see the lanterns. In years past, the park had been absolutely mobbed, so I was shocked at how relatively empty it was this time. The Typhoon 1 signal had been hoisted earlier that day, and there were slight drizzles that seemed on the verge of a potential downpour that never actually occured. Perhaps this kept the crowds away, and I'm certainly not complaining. I got to wander around at my leisure, snapping a few photos here and there, without getting my feet stepped on every two seconds!
Victoria Park during the fair
This year, there were lanterns in the shape of pandas, fish, airplanes, horses, mermaids and even dinosaurs. The colors and various designs were very intriguing and beautiful to look at. I was slightly disappointed that the moon only made a fleeting cameo appearance through the clouds, but in all, it was a lovely evening.
Fleeting appearance by the moon on Sunday
On Monday, I left the office promptly at six o'clock to make my way to Repulse Bay Beach for my favorite event of the festival—the nighttime beach visit, where thousands of people spill onto the SAR's public beaches for a chilled out night. To augment the experience, I brought along Penny, my friend Eleni's dog whom I am currently dog-sitting while her owner is on vacation.
People flock to the beaches on this night, and bring along with them countless lanterns, sparklers, glow sticks and candles. The whole beach is illuminated, with a blindingly white full moon further enhancing the experience.
My friends Matt, Ana, Vivian and Johnny all joined, and of course, there were new friends to be made on the beach! I must say, it's an event I look forward to every year, and I hope to enjoy many more Mid-Autumn Festivals in exactly the same manner.
Penny and me on Repulse Bay Beach on Monday night
Today, a public holiday, started early with delicious dim sum in Sai Ying Pun with my friends Sarah and Joel. It continued with some wandering and a few harbor side beers atop Central Ferry Pier 3. After nearly a year of funemployment, I'm getting back into the groove of holding down a full time office job. But it certainly was a nice change to have a free day back in my life.
Joel and the Mid-Autumn Lanterns on Pottinger Street
I capped it off this evening with the fire dragon dance in Tai Hang. As drummers pound their instruments and cymbals and clapping onlookers add to the cacophony, the dragon winds its way up and down the streets of one of Hong Kong's quaintest neighborhoods. Performed annually since 1880, the dragon is long and lithe, studded with burning incense sticks, giving the entire neighborhood a sort of spiritual smell.
Tai Hang's fire dragon
Penny was in tow again, and it was certainly a memorable conclusion to another successful Mid-Autumn Festival. The festival, in essence, celebrates the finish of the fall harvest, when, under the light of the silvery moon, families and friends can gather together to give thanks that their hard work has paid off. How lucky I feel to live in a place that truly marks the occasion in such a vibrant, spirited manner.
Happy Mid-Autumn Festival!
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