Five Days in Shanghai

I am in love. Over the course of last weekend, I fell hard and fast for Shanghai, spending five days there visiting friends and exploring all the hidden secrets of one of China's most modern and historic cities. As you may remember, my Italian friends Chiara and Andrea relocated to Shanghai several months before my own move from Hong Kong to Singapore. Shanghai had always been on my list of places to visit, and when Chiara and Andrea moved there, I had even more of a reason to go. However, it still took me quite a bit of time to finally take the trip. My inspiration came in the form of an e-mail from Chiara, which said, "So, I have 1 free ticket available for the Philadelphia Orchestra on the 2nd of June... and I am thinking.... when is Paul coming to visit me in China? Maybe the right time? Maybe he wants to take advantage of an invitation...? I have a couple of days that I need to take off soon, it would be great if you came over for 3-4 days over that weekend! eheheh..... I have a guest room ready for you, think about it."

My current trip home was in the works, and since it's one of an open-ended nature, this looked like my last potential Asian adventure for a decent stretch. I looked into flights almost immediately, and surprisingly, found they were frequent and relatively reasonable. I also knew I'd need to procure a visa if I wanted to visit China, but this, too, wound up being much less painless than I initially thought. It turned out I had exactly enough days before my intended departure to pay the least amount for my China visa, with no need to spend extra for rush service. I crossed my fingers, hoping nothing would go wrong in the process, and I picked up my visa around 9am last Wednesday morning, with my outbound flight to Shanghai set to depart just after midnight. And everything went off without a hitch!

Flight time from Singapore to Shanghai is normally around six hours. With a midnight departure, this had me landing just around 6am on Thursday. Moreover, my flight out on Monday evening wasn't leaving until after 9pm, meaning that I had five full days to fully immerse myself in Shanghai. That seemed perfect, as one of the first things I read about the place on Frommers.com said, "The city, one of the most exciting in the world, demands time to soak in its energy, appreciate its complexity, and sample its many attractions, which may not be apparent on the surface." And, boy, was I ready to take it on!

After a bit of a struggle wandering around Pudong Airport trying to find a working ATM, I eventually gave up and just hopped in a taxi with a couple of Chinese yuan left over from my last visit to Shenzen. I knew it wouldn't be enough for my fare, but I also had Chiara's phone number written down, along with an explanatory note in Chinese imploring my driver to please let me use his phone to let her know of my successful arrival. Luckily, he was a very nice man who had no problem doing this. Afterwards, knowing Chiara would be able to spot me the full fare, I just enjoyed the ride. As we drove along the highways of the metropolis, I got my first glimpses into modern China, including the faraway towers of Pudong.

The skyscrapers of Pudong, as seen in the distance

You see, although I'd been living just a few miles away from the Chinese border for a few years, I only made three uber-short trips into the country in all that time. First, back in January 2011, I visited Shenzen on a Gray Lines bus tour that lasted around six hours. Good for a first introduction, but hardly enough to make me an old China hand. Then, a year later on our Chinese New Year cruise, our ship made a port call in Sanya, a resort town on Hainan Island. Again, the three hours or so we spent there were memorable and enjoyable, but we hardly had a chance to scratch the surface. My third trip was one day after work in April of last year. I had gone through the rigmarole of getting a visa for the Sanya trip, but in the end, it was not cancelled and, thus, I still had a valid single entry into China. On the last day possible, not wanting any future trouble caused by an unused visa, I simply took the train up to Shenzen after work, crossed into China, had dinner at a local restaurant, bought a wallet, a pair of headphones and some t-shirts at the Lo Wu Center, and then went home. So over three trips, I'd probably spent a collective ten hours in one of the most interesting countries on earth. I've always said, my biggest regret of my time in Hong Kong was not spending more time in Mother China, so I was extremely excited to finally be making a "real" trip there. 

After arriving, I enjoyed catching up with my old friend. I got settled, showered and watched a little television while Chiara got ready, too. And then off we went. Sadly the weather was not all it could be. It was gray and drizzly, but after six months in Singapore, the cool temperatures were incredible! We had cappucinos and pastries at a European style bakery near Chiara's apartment, and then she took me on a stroll around a nearby sculpture park with some very cool statues.

Lunch was also nearby, and consisted of Shanghai's single most iconic food, xiao long bao. Xiao long bao, which can be found in many cities around the world and which I have fallen in love with thanks to Crystal Jade in Hong Kong, are small, soup-filled pork dumplings that originate from Shanghai. I find them absolutely delicious and was delighted to sample them in their home city. We also feasted on noodles and other local dishes, and I knew, with Chiara involved, all future meals would be similarly memorable.

We hopped on the Shanghai metro for one stop and wound up in People's Square, the massive green space at the heart of the city. There, we stepped inside the impressive Shanghai Urban Planning Exhibition Center. That might not necessarily be the most intriguing name they could have come up with for this place, but the exhibits inside were truly fascinating. Most impressive of all is a massive 3D map on the third floor, which shows how the city will look in 2020. 

Heading back outside, we discovered the rain had calmed down a bit, through it was still drizzling. Still we opted to wander around People's Square, as Chiara pointed out museums, concert halls and other interesting sights. We made our way down a couple of side streets, and I simply enjoyed snapping photos of all the activity going on around me.

 

Eventually we found ourselves on Nanjing Lu, an iconic shopping street. The thoroughfare, lined with famous stores, some housed in historic colonial buildings, had been described to me as a "can't miss" Shanghai attraction, and although I've never considered myself a shopper, I understand what the fuss is about here.

As we neared the Bund, the historic waterfront of the city, we feasted on some delicious noodles at a tiny restaurant, a fried pancake-and-egg wrap from a street stall and then some spicy pork buns a few blocks away. Chiara wasn't kidding when she had warned me the previous week to "stop eating now. I am ready to feed you till you explode!"

The Bund is something that has to be seen to be truly appreciated. Almost every single structure is unforgettable in its own way. When the British won the First Opium War and China was finally opened up to foreign trade, this street—apparently the most famous in Asia—was where all the European and American businesses set up shop. Banks, trading houses, hotels... The Bund was the place to be. Nowadays, these colonial landmarks have been restored and converted into offices, hotels, swanky nightclubs and all manner of attractions.

But perhaps what truly makes the Bund the showstopper that it is comes from the coupling of old and new. You see, the waterfront looks onto Pudong, Shanghai's visually striking financial district. So just across the Huangpu River, you have some of the world's tallest and most visually arresting skyscrapers. To one side, the history of the city written across every edifice, to the other, its future. Although the tops of many of the buildings were obscured by clouds, even in the less-than-ideal weather, it was still insanely surreal and beautiful.

We strolled along the pedestrian waterfront path, made a quick pit stop into Chiara's office so she could take care of an essential work-related task and then grabbed a rooftop drink at a bar called New Heights in Three on the Bund. With a window table and an old fashioned, I knew I had made the right choice to take this trip. I had already begun to fall in love with Shanghai.

We retraced our steps to Nanjing Lu to head back towards People's Square. In the daytime, it had been impressive enough. Now, at dusk, with its multi-colored neon lights blazing, the strip was even more outstanding. Sightseeing trams make their way from the Bund to the square, and I coaxed Chiara into boarding one, indulging my inner tourist. It was only five yuan, and a cool way to soak up the atmosphere of the place.

Back in People's Square, Chiara suggested a stop in another rooftop bar. This is always a good suggestion, and with such a dramatic cityscape, Shanghai is a natural place for such establishments. We had a couple of manhattans and ultimately, hungry again, made our way to Chiara's quarter to grab dinner.

 

Although her first choice for that evening's meal had run out of noodles and closed early, her second option was fine by me. Just steps away from the entrance to her apartment complex, we feasted again, on delicious noodles and dumplings. Wanting to get up early and enjoy Friday, we simply headed back upstairs afterwards, watching The Lady Eve over a couple of glasses of wine before falling asleep.

Unfortunately, the view from Chiara's window on Friday morning told me that the weather wouldn't be any better that day than it had been on my first. I was slightly bummed, but since one of the major attractions I wanted to properly explore was the Shanghai Museum, it seemed like the perfect weather to ensconce myself inside the cavernous building and get my fill of exhibits. Chiara actually had some work stuff to take care of that morning, even though she had booked the day off. So after a light breakfast (served to me on a tray on Chiara's couch!) I made my way to the metro and headed back to People's Square.

If you ever find yourself in Shanghai, regardless of the weather, you can't miss this museum. It's four floors chock full of history, art and culture. My guide book had said to allot at least two hours, and I decided to head up to the top floor and slowly make my way back down. In two hours' time, I was only able to see the fourth floor and one gallery on the third. So you can be sure that it will be my first stop when I make my next visit to the city.

Shanghai Museum

  

Mask exhibit in the museum

Jade gallery

Thank goodness I left my fountain pen at home!

Chinese furniture gallery

When I got back to the apartment, Chiara was finished with her work and ready to play tour guide again. Down we went for lunch at the restaurant that had been closed the previous night, and I understood why my friend had been so keen to take me there. We had the place all to ourselves, as she chatted away with the waitresses and manager in her flawless Mandarin. She found out about some special dishes and ordered them, along with the restaurant's signature dan dan mian, another Shanghai favorite consisting of hand-pulled noodles in a spicy peanut sauce. Crystal Jade's dan dan, as you may recall from previous posts, is pretty much my favorite food I've discovered in Asia. Again, to try it in its city of origin, was a "must do" on my pilgrimage. And although the authentic Shanghai original is quite different from Crystal Jade's take, I was in heaven chowing down on the stellar dish.

Post-lunch, we hopped in a cab to Qibao, a water village on the outskirts of Shanghai. We spent the next several hours there, wandering its ancient lanes, crossing its picturesque bridges and exploring its local street life. It was as photogenic a spot as I've seen in all my travels, and it's a great blessing for Shanghai's population that it's been preserved for all to appreciate.

 

 

Food-wise, it was a fascinating place as well. It seems to be a local delicacy there to cook quail eggs in huge salt ovens, and a very friendly shop lady offered me one to taste, free of charge. A few stalls further down, baby chickens, no more than a day or so old, are served roasted on sticks. The idea is to eat them bones and all, and the consistency and taste were surprisingly pleasant.

Quail eggs cooked in salt oven

Qibao was a culinary adventure!

Entire baby chickens

But it was my third culinary gamble that paid off the most. This was a hard-boiled egg with an unborn chicken still inside! Feathers, bones—the birds are so small you can eat the whole thing. And I'm not lying, it was truly incredibly tasty, similar to the chicken hearts and livers my dad used to put aside for me when I was growing up. I told Chiara how delicious it was, but her only reply was, "I'll just take your word for it, dear."

Hard-boiled eggs with chickens still inside!

We also found a charming coffee shop located on the second floor terrace of a local home, with a view over the old stone rooftops of Qibao. An unexpected sight we spied from up there was the steeple of a lovely Catholic church.

After our coffees, we followed the twisty maze of streets to the church's entrance and went inside. Beautiful stained glass windows and paintings lined the walls, and it was as if we had just stepped from ancient China into a nineteenth century European village. I love the dichotomy of experiences like that, and Shanghai is full of them.

Some friendly children were playing just outside the front gates. And village life was going on in every direction... motorcycles whizzing past, fruit stalls and dumpling shops selling their food. It was starting to get darker, and the white lights outlining the facades of the buildings were now illuminated. It was a magical time of the day, and I think Chiara and I practically retraced our entire path to re-see each and every street at this incredible moment.

 

When it was truly dark, it seemed time to head home to prepare for a Friday night on the town. I met Andrea and some of his work colleagues at an Italian restaurant, and he was my first guide into the gems of Shanghai's nightlife scene. We made the rounds, bumping into friends of his and eventually joining with Chiara again later. In between the bars, I discovered one of my favorite little quirks of Shanghai. It seems that late at night, several old Chinese men station themselves with their monkeys near to the popular expat bars. Then, when the tipsy revelers spill out of the bars to head to their next location, they're happy to pay a few yuan to pose for photos and play with the friendly animals. What a great idea! And what a great night!

Saturday was meant to start bright and early, but owing to the late finish of Friday, we wound up sleeping in. It was a laid back morning, filled with conversation and a leisurely gambol to the restaurant my friends had selected for brunch. Along the way, we bought train tickets for the following day to visit Hangzhou, with its famous West Lake. Chiara seemed bent of making sure I fit in a visit to Hangzhou during my time in China, and she figured if we bought our tickets a day early, there could be no way we'd miss it.

Next to where we bought our train tickets, one of the smartest phones I've ever met!

We also passed a woman frying dumplings on the street. Chiara and Andrea both had a look on their face, and I knew I was about to have something special. The tasty little morsels are called something like "half fried dumplings" since only one side of the skin makes contact with the metal of the pan. Again, like most Chinese food, the dumplings are difficult to accurately describe. But unforgettable and delicious are the first two words that come to my mind.

Shanghai Street Scene

We had brunch at a French place called Burdigala, because, as Chiara said, "We can't eat nothing but Chinese food for five days. Maybe you could, but not us." But I was delighted for a change of pace. Having lived in Asia for three-and-a-half years, I know that every now and then, one of the most surprising things about its big cities is stumbling upon an out-of-this-world Western restaurant.

After brunch, we dropped Andrea off at his apartment for a nap and Chiara took me to Jing'An Temple. The massive complex, with multiple halls, Buddhas, bells and incense, was a neat spot to wait out the rain. Eventually it had slowed down enough that we could walk back towards the apartment, with a second helping of those delicious dumplings en route.

Jing'an Temple

The weather was less than stellar.

We also stopped for a Chinese massage at a classy spa where Chiara gets a massive discount thanks to her gym membership—something like forty percent off! Chiara had invited Andrea and two of his roommates over for a home-cooked meal that night, and, let me just say, she hasn't lost her touch since the dinners she used to make for us regularly in Hong Kong.

Perhaps the single bar I was most excited to visit while in town was the Old Jazz Bar at the Peace Hotel on the Bund. So after dinner, we headed over. Even before entering the hotel, the first thing that hit me was the view at night, with the old buildings gracefully floodlit in white while Pudong's towers glowed in a rainbow across the Huangpu.

My friend Clément was meeting us for a drink at the Jazz Bar before heading off to a late-night farewell dinner. I hadn't seen him for a very long time, so catching up over classy drinks and a mix of Mandarin and English standards, was a great reunion. It was the type of place I just know my mom and dad would have loved, and I hope someday I get to take them there.

After the Jazz Bar closed, we walked along the Bund to Uniclo, a pulsing, dimly-lit bar with tuxedo-clad bartenders and a very attractive clientele. Owing to our 7:30am departure to Hangzhou the next morning, I only had one drink here, but it was such a cool place that I almost immediately put it on my short list of all-time favorite bars.

Chiara's plan worked. Had we not bought train tickets for the following morning, I can easily imagine us deciding to stay out that night and never wind up making the side trip to Hangzhou. I owe her my thanks, because it was one of my favorite experiences of my vacation. The train ride was quick, and we got a taxi at the station and headed to the legendary West Lake, a justly-famous UNESCO World Heritage site.

We took a ferry to the island in the middle of the lake, explored its winding paths, bridges and pavilions, and were wowed every step of the way. Back on the main shore of the lake, we had a delicious local lunch of spicy beef and crispy river shrimp. It was the kind of meal we would have never had without Chiara, who selected a table in a tiny one-room restaurant where I doubt very few Westerners have ever set foot. But it was yet another meal of this trip that will linger in my memory for a long time.

There's not too much I can say about the West Lake, except that it was photogenic and mysterious and absolutely breathtaking. One of the lake's sights is depicted on the reverse side of the one yuan note, and we took a private boat ride around, learning a bit about the history and significance of this and other attractions from our gondolier, translated by Chiara. The misty atmosphere, I kept saying, actually added a lot to the ambiance, and I think it was the ideal weather to explore the place. Since a picture, as they say, is worth a thousand words, I think I'll curtail my prose and add a few extra photos to complete the description.

We were booked on the 4:30pm train back, giving us just the right amount of time to make the Philadelphia Orchestra concert that evening. I had a quick shower, got dressed and ran down the six flights of steps to meet Chiara, who had run a few errands and hailed us a cab to the Oriental Arts Center in Pudong.

We entered the tunnel crossing the river, and just as we were about to emerge on the other side, I asked Chiara, "Is this going to be a wow?" meaning my first up-close view of the skyscrapers. "For you, yes!" she replied. And I rolled down the window and began snapping photos. The towers were breathtaking, and for the first time since I had arrived, it had cleared up. I guess Shanghai had finally rained itself out. The blue skies and colors of the sunset were a welcome sight, and we arrived at the concert hall with only about fifteen minutes until showtime.

The Philadelphia Orchestra is a sentimental favorite of mine. Over my time at Villanova, I tried to see them as much as possible. Whether getting $10 student rush tickets with friends, or attending with various campus groups, I always loved making my way to the Kimmel Center for a concert. And when Chiara mentioned she had booked tickets, it pretty much sealed the deal on this last minute trip.

As we walked into the hall, many orchestra members were already on stage warming up, and I could hear them practicing the signature lines of the first piece, Wagner's Tannhäuser Overture. I had chills when they started, the famous Philadelphia Sound wafting over the hall so far away from home. The orchestra also has a sentimental attachment with Shanghai. After President Nixon visited China in the 1972 and diplomatic relations between the two countries finally re-opened, he asked them and their legendary conductor Eugene Ormandy to visit as the first American orchestra to perform there in a series of cultural exchanges.

All these years later, they still make frequent visits, and I was so grateful to see the ensemble in the fortieth anniversary concert of that fateful first Chinese performance (including eight members who participated in that first performance still playing in the orchestra to this day). After the Tannhäuser Overture, Tchaikovsky's Capriccio Italien concluded the first half of the show. During intermission, Chiara and I had a glass of champagne in an antique-filled, 1930s-inspired bar just off the lobby.

And we then took our seats for the second half, Brahm's Second Symphony. I was unfamiliar with the piece, but each movement was beautiful, wonderfully showcasing the famously lush string section of the Fabulous Philadelphians. The applauding audience coaxed two encores out of conductor Donald Runnicles, a sprightly, energetic leader who made the concert fun to watch, as well as musically stunning.

This was my last night in town, although I did have nearly a full day to continue exploring before my flight on Monday. We were pretty hungry, so we met Andrea for a late dinner at a local restaurant in the French Concession. Although every dish was good, the one that stuck out most—and perhaps the most memorable dish of an entire trip filled with great food—was the drunken prawns. Live prawns were basically drowned in bowl of Chinese liquor and herbs at our table. They squirmed about as we feasted on all the other dishes, until eventually the movement subsided. At this point, the prawns, you see, were still alive, but very close to their end. The final nail in the coffin, however, doesn't come in the bowl but rather when you pick them up with a chopstick, bite their head off and eat the rest! I felt a little cruel, it's true, but I loved them.

Eating a drunken prawn!

Monday morning I woke up to head to work with Chiara. As you remember, her office is on the Bund, so I thought it would be good to get started early. I had three main ambitions for the day. First, to check out the Old Chinese city of Shanghai. Next to meet Clément for lunch in Pudong and visit the observation deck of his office building. And third, to return to the French Concession to enjoy a walking tour I'd printed off of Frommers.com. It was the most jam-packed day of my trip, but I was determined. 

I had been right about the weather clearing up for good. The day was clear and bright, with a perfect vista across the Huangpu River and a clear view up and down the Bund as far as the eye could see.

I attempted to make my way to the Chinese city with a map and my own sense of direction, but I had serious trouble trying to figure it out. All the signs, of course, were in Chinese characters, and without Chiara, I was unable to make heads or tails out of any of it. Then I happened to come across a metro station, so I just took the train. Emerging at Yu Garden, I was floored by the well-preserved Chinese structures.

I had printed off a walking tour of the area, but wound up strolling around and re-arranging the order of the sights as I came across them: the Bridge of Nine Turns, the Neighborhood Temple, Shanghai Old Street and Yu Garden itself, a beautiful oasis in the middle of the city.

After I had my fill of the perfectly preserved historic structures, I ventured into the side streets. A few moments before I had heard tour guides speaking in French, German, Italian and scores of other languages. And I saw Western tourists at every turn. Now, only a few feet away, I was met with stares from the locals and there was not another tourist in sight. It was incredible. I wandered around the side streets, snapping photos at every turn. At first I had trouble finding the specific roads the walking tour had suggested, but it mentioned that sections of the old city seemed to be succumbing to modern development by the month. I was afraid this fascinating corner of Shanghai no longer existed, and I had almost resigned myself to giving up the hunt. All the more spectacular when I finally found it! 

After finishing up my walk, I took a taxi to Pudong, now being stunned by the city's modern towers. Clément works in the Shanghai World Financial Center, near the famous Jin Mao Tower and the soon-to-be-completed Shanghai Tower (which will be the world's second tallest when it is finished). I had a little while to kill before our lunch at 12:15, so I took the elevator to the lobby of the Hyatt Hotel in the Jin Mao Tower. The staff was very friendly, and nobody seemed to mind me wandering around, gazing out the windows.

From left to right, the Shanghai Tower, Jin Mao Tower and the Shanghai World Financial Center

Jin Mao Tower

The Oriental Pearl Tower

View from the Hyatt in the Jin Mao Tower

Lunch with Clément was at the type of place I know I will frequent if my career ever takes me to Shanghai. Full of bankers and businessmen, the Blue Frog was just European enough to attract the wealthier employees of the area but Chinese enough to feel authentic. And I really was glad to spend some more time with Clément. We met back in July 2010, when he came to Hong Kong to visit my roommate Guillaume and stayed at our apartment. He was only there for a week or so, but we clicked. I remember thinking if we lived in the same city, we'd be really good friends. So it was good to catch up and hear all about his Shanghai life.

Clément's building is easily my favorite of the Shanghai skyscrapers. Shaped like a bottle opener with one of the world's highest observation decks, the Shanghai World Financial Center was the world's second tallest when it topped out in 2008. It has since fallen to fifth place, but it's sleek design still makes it a winner in my book. The observation deck is at the very top, with a glass floor in many spots.

Having completed by second goal, I took a taxi back across the river to begin my afternoon walking tour of the French Concession. It began at Xiantandi, a pedestrian mall of restored old buildings, filled with upscale shops, bars and cafes. And from there, the tour brought me from one historic site to the next: old mansions, villas, parks, theaters, hotels and churches. The French were one of the biggest foreign presences in Shanghai during the colonial age, and although the many other international communities joined together, the French kept their quarter separate. I had made up my mind to head home to Chiara's around 4pm to finish up packing, but I was so taken by the charms of the French Concession that pushed it back to 5:30, making for a slightly more rushed return, but one that was totally worthwhile.

Parts of the French Concession literally felts beamed straight from France. I guess there's a reason Shanghai is sometimes called "the Paris of the East." And the walking tour explained a good deal of the history that was associated with each site.

 

I packed in a hurry and headed to the metro. Clément had warned me that traffic in Shanghai is unpredictable. I could hop in a cab and be where I needed to be in five minutes, but I could also get stuck in traffic on a bridge, highway or tunnel with no escape plan. So he recommended I walk with my suitcase to the metro and take the much more reliable underground system.

You can take the metro all the way to Pudong, but there's also a special train called the Maglev, which floats on magnets as it reaches speeds of 300 kilometers per hour and arrives at the airport in a mere seven minutes. The Maglev was very cool, and I couldn't get over how fast it hit its top speed. It was a fitting last experience in a city that had wowed me countless times in the short stretch of days I got to spend there.

Maglev reaching its top speed!

I would love to live in Shanghai some day, whether it be for work or even to learn Chinese. Of the many cities I've been so fortunate to visit over the last three-and-a-half years, I might say this is the one I fell in love with the fastest. Not speaking the language would certainly present its challenges, but it might also inspire me to buckle down and really try to learn Chinese, something that's never happened in Hong Kong or Singapore because of the universal existence of English speakers and signage. Who knows? Maybe it's in the cards.