A Free Trip is a Great Trip

Once upon a time, when I studied abroad in France, my friends and I got a free trip to Versailles simply because there was room on the bus. The lesson we learned that day: a free trip is a great trip.

Close followers of this blog will remember that when I went to Boracay in the summer, a slight mix-up occurred with our return flights, resulting in the airline giving us a free flight back to the Philippines at some point in the next six months. Well, with the clock ticking down, we finally got our act together and took advantage of the offer this past weekend.

We had been e-mailing among the group for a few weeks trying to figure out our plan. Where did we want to go? Should we try to take some days off from work or simply have a nice little weekend getaway? Ultimately, we decided a trip to Manila, the capital of the Philippines, would be a perfect fit. Several members of the group were definitely unable to secure any time off from work, so the two hour flight to Manila made the most sense for a Friday-to-Sunday weekend trip. In the end, a few of us did wind up taking a day off from work, heading down a day early. Then the others arrived on Friday evening, and we enjoyed the weekend together before flying back as a group on Sunday night.

A free weekend away is a great weekend away, and this one was no exception! Chock full of history, ranging from the Spanish colonial administration through the devastating bombings of World War II, Manila is a fascinating place. It might not have the best reputation among Asian capitals, but in my mind, it’s one of the unsung gems of this part of the world.

I had visited once before, back in January 2010, when I went down with Kevin and his friends Matt and Chris. And this return trip reinforced my hypothesis that if you do your research and look beyond the surface, this city is immensely rewarding. After my two weekends there, I cannot understand why some people think so poorly of Manila. But I definitely think the joke is on them. I believe my friend Amy hit the nail on the head when she met up with us on Friday night: “Manila is exactly how people said it would be, except in a much more charming way than you’re led to believe.” It’s the charm of the city that compensates for all its downfalls. It’s a very special place, and I look forward to returning there when the opportunity arises.

On Thursday, Alex, Rich, my new roommate Remco and I caught the 7:30pm flight from Hong Kong International to Ninoy Aquino International Airport in Manila. After figuring out the taxi system, we arrived at and checked in to our hotel, a charming place called St. Illian’s Inn. The rooms were small, and the beds were simple, but the hotel itself was full of character, from its indoor courtyard to the Spanish-influenced architecture and décor.

St. Illian's Inn, Makati

Our first night out was spent in Makati, known as one of the nightlife hotspots of Manila. San Miguel is the most popular beer in the Philippines, and we started our long weekend off right with the delicious brew. A late night Japanese meal capped off that first night.

The next morning we woke up relatively early and headed to Greenbelt, a shopping mall with stunningly lush greenery at its center and a bevy of outdoor restaurants of all varieties spilling into this central oasis. There’s hardly a more pleasant spot to eat, and the prices of the restaurants are incredibly reasonable, especially by Hong Kong standards.

We decided to grab a meal at Mr. Jones, a hip retro take on the typical 1950s American diner. My “Sloppy Jones” was delicious—and covered in an orange-soda barbecue sauce. And ordering the Butterfinger milkshake was one of the best decisions I’ve made in the last few months. In fact, we loved our meal so much, that when the girls arrived the next day, we insisted on returning for a second time.

The inner courtyard of Greenbelt

That afternoon, we went to Intramuros, the old Spanish walled city on the Pasig River. With its imposing Fort Santiago and horse-drawn carriages, Intramuros feels like a slice of Europe surreally supplanted in the middle of a bustling Asian metropolis. Dotted with quaint courtyards, old homes, and delightful churches, Intramuros is one of Manila's treasures, and one of the most memorable spots to wander I’ve ever found.

Gate of Fort Santiago

Intramuros

Horse drawn carriages near Fort Santiago

World War II Memorial

Old Spanish courtyard

Exterior of San Agustin Church, the oldest in the Philippines

Interior of San Agustin Church

After exploring the old city, we walked to the Manila Hotel, the most prestigious place to stay in town. This historic hotel was built in 1912, and it's where General Douglas MacArthur lived when he was leading American troops in the Pacific theater during World War II. We grabbed a drink in the Tap Room, followed by a second in the lobby, while the classical orchestra serenaded guests with some live music. We then followed it up with the meal of the year: an immense seafood buffet where we literally gorged ourselves for three hours. From chilled prawns to sushi rolls, lobster to oysters Rockefeller, and mussels to seafood paella, it was an incredible dining experience. I don’t think I’ve ever seen a buffet with more options in my entire life. Different stations were scattered all over the large dining room, and it took several trips up before we even found entire sections of food. And we capped it off with chocolate fondue, ice cream and other sweet desserts.

Lobby of the Manila Hotel

That night, Silja, Amy and Sonia arrived, and we all went out to Greenbelt for a chilled evening of hookah and drinks at the Cuban-themed Café Havana. Although it was meant to be our “quiet” evening, we wound up staying out until about 5am!

Sonia, Silja and Amy in front of the hotel

Following our return to Mr. Jones the next morning, we went to the American Cemetery. I had been there on my last trip to Manila, and I’ve never forgotten the place. It’s one of the most moving, peaceful and striking spots I’ve ever been. 17,206 of our boys are buried on the grounds of the cemetery, with 36,282 additional names of those “who sleep in unknown graves” carved into the walls.

It is the largest of the international American cemeteries, and it’s a fitting tribute to those who gave the ultimate sacrifice. Interspersed throughout the memorial are several mosaic maps detailing specific battles that took place in the Pacific during the Second World War. Although less famous than some of its Europe counterparts, especially Normandy’s, I actually find the cemetery in Manila to be even more special. When I visited the one Normandy, it was full of tour groups and crowds. Still moving, to be sure, but the photo-snapping throngs of tourists definitely detracted a bit from the peace. In contrast, both of my visits to this cemetery found it nearly empty and serenely tranquil. There was hardly another person in sight, and you can stroll the grounds alone and feel the spiritual core of the place. Words can’t really describe the sobering solemnity I felt there but if you ever get the chance to visit, I’m sure you’ll immediately understand exactly what I mean.

We left the cemetery and headed towards the Coconut Palace, a mansion build for a state visit by Pope John Paul II in the early 1980s. Not surprisingly, the Pope turned down the offer to stay in the palace, because he felt it was inappropriate in a country struck by such widespread poverty. However, the structure, made entirely out of coconut, was meant to showcase the diversity and durability of one of the country’s most important natural resources. Since its construction, Brooke Shields and Col. Gadaffi have stayed in the palace, and it’s one of the few attractions in Manila I really had my heart set on seeing. You see, on my last trip, our taxi driver got lost on the way there, and we eventually had to head to the airport instead.

Exterior of the Coconut Palace

After about an hour’s ride from the cemetery, we arrived at the gates of the palace only to be told that it was no longer open for tours since it had recently been selected by the country’s vice president as his official residence. I was so disappointed, but at least we got to see the structure from the outside, which honestly was not too impressive. Luckily, a rooftop restaurant and bar overlooking the mansion, city skyline and Manila Bay was just adjacent to the palace, so we went up for a few hours, as the sun set over the bay and the stars came out over Manila.

View of the city skyline and Manila Bay

It wound up being one of the highlights of my trip, and I’m so glad we accidentally stumbled on such a hidden gem. I will surely go back on my next visit. And who knows? Maybe the next vice president will select another location as his official residence, and the Coconut Palace will once again be open for tours. I can hope anyway.

After a hearty Italian dinner at a Makati restaurant, we kick started our last night. A quick stop in one of the infamously seedy bars on P. Burgos (think midget boxing) was followed by a visit to the Fort, Manila’s trendiest nightlife district, where wealthy Filipinos dance the night away. Remco, Alex and I went into a club called Seventh High while the girls and Rich went off to the casino. We later met up in the casino, and as the sun was rising, we decided to go for yet another massive buffet, this time for breakfast.

Sunday was the day of a big boxing match. Manny Pacquiao, the Philippines’ national hero, was fighting in Vegas, and every single bar in town was showing the fight. Although everybody else was exhausted and opted to return to the hotel to sleep, Alex and I stayed up for the fight, watching as the crowd of locals cheered on their champion to victory. Although the fight itself was somewhat lackluster, the experience was awesome, and I’ll always remember the atmosphere and ambiance.

Not too long after the fight, we had to check out of the hotel and head to the airport. After one last San Miguel and a quick massage, we were ready to board. Having hardly slept the whole weekend, you can imagine how nice the flight was for me. My eyes closed as soon as I was able to recline my seat, and I did not wake up until a stewardess was tapping me on my shoulder to return my seat back to the upright position for landing. But I still hadn’t had my fill of sleep! Back at our apartment I immediately crashed and slept straight through till morning.

Airport fun

In the end, our weekend could not have been better. I loved how diverse and different each part of every day had been, and I am looking forward to exploring more of Manila’s charms on future visits!