I Left My Heart in Singapore

I’ve just had two of my best—albeit most expensive and sleepless—weekends back to back. Two weekends ago, August 6th–9th, Jamie, my friend from ‘Nova, came up to Hong Kong to stay with me and see the town. He had off on Monday because of Singapore’s National Day, so I had a bit more time than a usual to show him the amazingness that is Hong Kong. We crammed in a ton of activities over the three days he was here, including a trip to Macau.

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Just before he left on Monday afternoon, I happened to price tickets to Singapore for the following weekend, and happened to find stupidly cheap spots on one of the local budget airlines, Tiger Air. Since Jamie is at the tail end of his job rotation, I knew this would be my last chance to visit Singapore while he was still there, and I decided to go ahead and book the tickets. I am so glad that I did, because the weekend was phenomenal, even if it did take me until today to recover from the lack of sleep. (And to finally get around to writing this entry!)

Singapore had been described to me countless times, but no explanation can accurately portray the town. I was told it would be impossibly clean, lovely and family-oriented, and it was all of those things. But it also had a unique character and feel all its own that was completely unexpected. Hongkongers typically paint a picture of Singapore as ‘the place expats move when they get married, have a family and are ready to leave the frenetic pace of city life behind.’ But after having visited myself, I have to disagree. Singapore doesn’t lack any of Hong Kong’s energy or nightlife. It is just able to couple this joie de vivre with a serious dose of calm, collected peacefulness. Jamie kept saying that Singapore “does not even feel like a real city.” And I completely agree. Eventually we decided that Singapore is more of a real-life Disney World than bustling metropolis. Except you get caned if you break the rules!

The view of Clarke Quay from Jamie's window

I arrived in Singapore so late on Friday night that it was already significantly into Saturday by the time I got to Jamie’s apartment. We had coordinated via e-mail exactly how we were to meet up. As a joke, in one e-mail, I wrote that if all else failed, I would simply start shouting “Jamie—Jamie—Jamie” until we finally found each other. Little did I realize that my phone would run out of credit, and that is exactly what I would have to do!! Thankfully, somebody up there was on my side: Jamie heard me shouting and a serious crisis was averted. (Sidenote: If I gave an award to the friend I've met up with in most foreign countries, Jamie would win, as Singapore marks the fifth one!)

After dropping off my bag in his flat, Jamie took me to a part of town called Clarke Quay (pronounced “key”), which was right across the street. Clarke Quay is unlike any nightlife scene I have ever seen anywhere. It's an old collection of restored warehouses and factories that has been completely taken over by themed bars and restaurants: a Cuban themed bar, a microbrewery, a traditional British pub, and—most bizarrely—a hospital-themed restaurant called The Clinic that seats its diners in wheelchairs and serves beverages via drips!

Clarke Quay at night

Early on Saturday morning we hit Singapore. After a quick bite to eat at an outdoor complex of restaurants and shops (situated on the grounds of an old convent) called CHIJMES, we visited the National Museum. It traced the history of the island of Singapore from its legendary founding through the colonial era to its current status as an independent city-state of worldwide economic importance.

The National Museum of Singapore

The museum was awesome, and afterwards we headed to the famous Raffles Hotel for the obligatory Singapore Sling at the storied Long Bar with some of Jamie's friends. For S$25 (or over US$18!!!) we sipped an extremely sweet Sling under the quirky ceiling fans, snacked on peanuts and enjoyed the ambiance. Gone are the days when Somerset Maugham, Noël Coward and Ava Gardner lingered over drinks here—only tourists set foot inside now. And, I'm sorry to report, the drink wasn't really anything that special.

A window advertisement for the famous Singapore Sling

Although I will probably never pay for a Singapore Sling at the Long Bar again, I am very glad to have checked the item off of my Asian bucket list. But I keep kicking myself that I forgot to get a photo of the occasion. Oh well. Before I left, I did snap one shot of the famous bar itself.

The Long Bar

After the Slings, Jamie took me to the observation level (called the Skypark) atop the brand-new Marina Bay Sands, a hotel-casino-convention center just completed downtown. After our disastrous (but incredibly fun) visit to the casinos of Macau when Jamie visited Hong Kong, we steered clear of the roulette and blackjack tables, but the Skypark was simply stunning.

Close-up view of the Skypark

The Marina Bay Sands consists of three separate tall towers with the flat “park” balanced on top of them. Recently completed, it's definitely the most iconic and distinctive skycraper in the town, and it certainly is a unique-looking complex, as you can see in the photo below!

The Marina Bay Sands!

The views of the city and the sea from this vista show off Singapore in all its glory. A handy audio guide also helped identify various landmarks and parts of town. In addition to the observation level, the Skypark is also home to the world’s largest infinity pool, which was undoubtedly one of the most impressive swimming pools I have ever laid my eyes on.

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Currently my desktop background—the infinity pool atop the Skypark

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As day turned to night, we watched the lights of Singapore turn on from our high perch. Then, around 8 o’clock fireworks started booming! It was the opening ceremony of the first ever Youth Olympic Games. Standing on the Skypark, we were actually above the fireworks, which made for a unique view of the pyrotechnics. I will never forget it as long as I live.

Bird's eye view of the Youth Olympics Opening Ceremony

Fireworks over Singapore

Afterwards, we grabbed a quick dinner and headed out for another night on the town. I got to meet a bunch of Jamie’s friends, several of whom are actually currently in Hong Kong, so I’ve gotten to see them since my return. We started in Emerald Hill, but of course we finished our night in—where else?—Clarke Quay.

Sunday was another packed, wonderful day. It started early with tickets to watch the rowing event of the Youth Olympics. Although the U.S.A. did not compete in any heat we saw, it was still a good time. And if the Youth Olympics ever becomes big, I have the privilege of boasting that I was in attendance at the very first games. (Somehow I doubt the Youth Olympics will ever catch on though.)

Youth Olympians rowing past the Singapore Flyer

In the afternoon, we met up with my friend Melanie from Hong Kong, whose parents have just relocated to Singapore. Together, the three of us strolled along the Singapore River, from Clarke Quay down to the Merlion, the “mascot” of Singapore. Along the way we passed Boat Quay, the Fullerton Hotel (the old post office), the statue of Sir Stamford Raffles and other sights.

Me and Melanie in front of Fullerton's Hotel, on the Singapore River

For me, the highlight of the afternoon was a ride on Singapore Flyer, the tallest observation (Ferris) wheel in the world! The ride, which took almost 40 minutes, was awesome. Somehow, even though it is right next to the Marina Bay Sands, the Flyer was completely different and just as worthwhile as the Skypark. The capsules were huge, the 'flight' was smooth, and the views, obviously, were incredible. There was even an audio guide that explained the Feng shui of the city, including how the wheel's direction had to be reversed after several months in order to be more in harmony with its surroundings! Apparently by spinning counter-clockwise, wealth was flowing out of the Central Business District, but thankfully some Feng shui masters pointed this out, and now it has been corrected. Because of the clockwise spinning of the wheel, wealth now flows into the city. Much better for a financial capital, I'm sure you'll agree. 

We are self-timer masters!

On the Singapore Flyer

Since I booked Monday morning off from work, I opted to take an early morning flight home the next day—giving me a third night in Singapore. After a delicious al fresco mussel dinner on Robertson Quay, we headed to the unique Night Safari, a sort of nocturnal zoo about an hour’s bus ride from the center of town.

With some creepy Cat Woman-esque lady at the Night Safari

The Night Safari is possibly the coolest thing I’ve done in Asia, and I would put it at the top of any list of Singapore attractions. There were elephants, tigers, lions, bats, flying foxes, leopards, deer, fishing cats, porcupines and plenty of other animals, all going about their nocturnal business. The "safari" consisted of a guided tram ride around the park and optional stops to further explore the different areas up close. Perhaps the most memorable trail was the Bat Walk-Through, with free flying fruit bats. You could actually feel the breeze from their flapping wings as they got precariously close to the tourists! The fascinating animals enhanced by the magic of moonlight makes the Night Safari unmissable. Since flash photography is prohibited, though, hardly any photographs come out, but the vivid memories of the experience are surely better than any pictures ever could be.

When nobody was looking, I snapped one flash photo.

As I was getting ready to leave to go back to Hong Kong, Jamie’s friend from Villanova (confusingly also named Paul) arrived. He was spending a week in Singapore as Jamie finished his last days of work, and then the two were going to travel around Malaysia for another week or so before heading back to the States. We briefly walked around Clarke Quay yet again, and before I knew it, I had to get in a taxi to head back to the airport.

Though I managed to get that extra night squeezed in, I wish I had a lot more time to spend in Singapore. Bangkok and Kuala Lumpur were certainly more exotic, and I had great weekends in Chiang Mai and Manila as well, but the only place I’ve been in Asia (besides Hong Kong) where I can actually picture myself living for an extended period of time is Singapore. I fell in love hard with the town, and I absolutely cannot wait to go back. Who knows? Perhaps one day I will even live there. Before this weekend, I never imagined myself saying that.

Me and Jamie in front of the Singapore Flyer