The Hong Kong Culinary Scene

Although the weather has been far from ideal here since my return to Hong Kong, it’s been great going back to all of my favorite places in town. I’ve caught up with my old friends, made several new ones and certainly enjoyed working typical business hours.

Quite honestly, life has been wonderfully boring these past two weeks. Nothing terribly exciting has happened since my last post, but I’ve thoroughly enjoyed each day. Since I have nothing new to write about here, I figured this might be a good time to talk about one of my favorite things about Hong Kong—its dining scene. As with any international city with a diverse group of inhabitants, there is no end to the city's culinary treasures.

Still, whenever I speak with people back home, they are constantly questioning me about what I eat out here. Americans have this idea that I’m feasting on cat, dog and other domesticated animals, which, of course, couldn’t be further from the truth! In reality, Hong Kong is just as sophisticated, dining-wise, as American metropolises like New York, Philadelphia and Washington, D.C. However, there are some unique dining opportunities that I particularly enjoy.

High on my list of dining adventures is dim sum, a very popular practice here. Dim sum literally means “to touch the heart” and families gather often to enjoy the experience. Versions of dim sum vary widely, but my favorite variety is the old-fashioned custom involving a crowded restaurant filled with noisy diners, bamboo baskets full of dumplings, and trolleys being pushed around the room by less-than-friendly old Chinese ladies. Few of these establishments are left, but fortunately there is Lin Heung Tea House on Wellington Street in Central. I try to go here as much as I can, and I always recommend it to friends. It might be the most intimidating meal you'll ever eat, but it's sure to be one of the most memorable.

The unassuming entrance to Lin Heung Tea House

The first time I went to Lin Heung Tea House, I was completely bewildered. In fact, I was so overwhelmed by the whole thing that I almost walked out! (And it only gets slightly easier on return visits.) Basically there is no hostess to seat you. You must find an empty seat at a table full of strangers and sit down. Then a man comes up to you and mutters a few words—which I never understand—and suddenly a tea cup, chopsticks and spoon appear in front of you. Before you know it, the cup is filled with tea leaves and hot water, you are handed a slip of paper and, again, you are left on your own.

Pretty soon, you notice the trolleys being pushed around. With your slip of paper in hand, you chase down a trolley, lift the tops of the bamboo baskets to see what’s inside and point to the basket (or baskets) you want. The lady behind the cart will stamp your slip of paper depending on what you choose, and at the end of your meal, the stamps are added up to determine the final price.

Hustle and bustle inside the restaurant

Honestly I don’t think I ever could have done it by myself that first time. Luckily, seeing my distress, a friendly, middle-aged Chinese lady named Sheena sat me down at her table, explained the way things worked and even suggested the best items on the trolleys! Thank God for her or I surely would have missed out on the whole thing.

Of course, there are other restaurants in Hong Kong that serve dim sum off of English menus. You are seated by a hostess, and there is no intimidation (or trolley) involved, but these places are nowhere near as fun as Lin Heung Tea House.

Another facet of the dining scene in Hong Kong that I love is Super Mondays, a two-for-one deal at dozens of restaurants each Monday night. Basically, for every entrée ordered, a second entrée is given for free. It’s a reasonably-priced way to try a new restaurant and a great start to the week! And you can choose from tons of different options and cuisines: popular steakhouses, a typical French café, wonderful seafood places, upscale Italian trattorias, a casual Mexican spot (where I happen to be eating tonight) and several others. The only problem is that Super Mondays is very popular among the expats in Hong Kong, so it’s wise to book your table early to avoid being turned away as a walk-in.

Perhaps Hong Kong's most bizarre restaurant is Modern Toilet, an Asian chain that, food-wise, is similar to Ruby Tuesday or T.G.I. Friday's but has a decorative emphasis on toilets, showers and other bathroom-related items. My friend Maddie, a Villanova '09 graduate, sent me an article about the restaurant way before I even left home, and one Saturday night I tried it out with my roommates. Basically, each guest sits on a (lid-down) toilet, with shower nozzles overhead. Underneath each transparent glass table are porcelain sinks.

Not your typical dining room

At Modern Toilet, drinks comes in mini ceramic urinals and most dishes are served in their own personal toilet or bathtub, as you can see in the photo below. While the food isn't exactly sensational, the—What is the proper word?—unique—ambiance makes for a memorable meal anyway. If you've ever imagined what it would be like to dine in a public restroom, this place might be the closest you will ever come.

With my roommates at Modern Toilet

And as if sitting on a toilet, eating out of a bathtub and drinking from a urinal weren't enough to emphasize such a bizarre theme, Modern Toilet's chefs opt to take things completely over the top with dessert, throwing any attempt at subtlety to the wind! If the whole thing weren't so amusing, it would probably be downright disgusting. But in the end, chocolate ice cream is always delicious, isn't it?

Dessert at Modern Toilet...need I say more

Somehow, even with terrible service and passable food, the novelty of Modern Toilet keeps bringing in the crowds. Of all the potential descriptions (repulsive? vulgar? offensive?) it remains for me—ineffably and indelibly—charming. I know I will be back again, especially if I have friends visiting who have never seen anything like it before.

Of course, all your American chains are here in Hong Kong as well. You'll find Burger Kings and McDonald’s galore; there are Pizza Huts and California Pizza Kitchens to spare; and count on seeing Pret-a-Mangers and Starbucks on every corner. There is even a 24-hour wannabe-diner called the Flying Pan, which serves omelets, eggs Benedict and other American favorites. While it’s not quite authentic, it still does the job when I feel a craving for a good New Jersey-style breakfast no matter what time of day!

There are more exotic choices too—I’ve already written about the delicious snake soup I enjoyed back in January—but rest assured that Hong Kong is a modern city full of dining options to suit all tastes, adventurous and mundane. The possibilities are endless, but it’s such fun to attempt to try them all!