March to a Different Beat

Well, since my last post, things almost seemed to return to normal here. Hong Kong was universally touted (alongside Singapore and Taiwan) as a location that had quite effectively managed the first stage of the novel coronavirus and had thus prevented a major calamity. People were out on the streets again while restaurants and bars could even feel crowded. 

Back in early March, Beef and Liberty—my favorite burger joint in town—organized a pub quiz, and I’m immensely proud to report that we finished first among the twenty-five groups who participated in the event! What’s more, we eked out our victory by a single point, meaning even one additional incorrect answer would have delivered a different result, which felt massively satisfying. And with each member of our team contributing some essential bit of knowledge, we all walked away knowing that without our presence on the team that night, we would not have triumphed!

I also took Fredric to Stanley a few Sundays ago, with my friends Matt and Ana, and it seemed like the whole world had the same idea. We hiked through Tai Tam Country Park before finishing up on the bustling waterfront, where we had a few drinks and even squeezed in a Mexican dinner before taxiing back to Happy Valley.

And, of course, there was Saint Patrick’s Day, always a highlight of the early year! While I was sad knowing my friends in the States could not mark the occasion in typical fashion, I was glad to be able to revel, albeit modestly, here. We were not totally through the epidemic yet, but we at least felt like we could see the light at the end of the tunnel, so a little Tuesday celebration seemed in order.

I invited my colleague Kevin and good friend Christina to lunch at Jimmy’s Kitchen, still the only restaurant I know in Hong Kong that serves corned beef and cabbage. With its well-spaced tables and basement location, it seemed both a safe and appropriate venue to indulge in Paddy’s Day’s signature treat. And it was a great feast, capped off with Baked Alaska, of course.

Later that night, I welcomed a significantly reduced guest count to my roof for green beer and leprechaun hats. Christina came along, as did my friends Adrien, Pauline and Gabby, and we all had a good time. The Quiet Man also factored in the evening, with a late late show screening accompanied by Guinness and Baileys. I sincerely hope that by next year, I can again host a raucous party with a double-digit invite list. But until then, I’m at least glad I wasn’t reduced to drinking by myself.

Yes, I felt slightly guilty knowing what was happening back in the US these past few weeks while my life returned to a level of social normalcy, with great spring weather, to boot! But, don’t forget, Hong Kong took instant action back in mid-January to reduce the spread of this virus, when it was still a page five news item for most of the rest of the world. Before Chinese New Year, it was decided that school would not resume after the then-pending break, and people began vigorous hand washing and working remotely almost immediately. Having learnt a tough lesson in 2003 from SARS, my city looked to have successfully navigated the current pandemic.

Then, for reasons which are still not completely clear, the Hong Kong government made an astounding announcement that many, myself included, see as a major blunder. They publicly stated that in a few days’ time, any incoming overseas arrivals would have to undergo a mandatory fourteen-day home quarantine.

You can probably guess what happened. Thousands of people who had initially fled Hong Kong under the assumption that its geographic proximity to the virus’ epicenter in Wuhan, China, would inevitably lead to high rates of local infection and sought refuge in their home countries in Europe and North America were suddenly given incentive to rush back. Airlines even had to add flights to satisfy demand! Not surprisingly—given the fact that they had spent weeks in virus-ravaged cities in the West—many brought with them a clandestine second wave of COVID-19. And, because the government encouraged them to beat the clock—and then rewarded them by allowing immediate and continued interaction with the rest of us—Hong Kong’s case count began to tick ever upwards.

And farther reaching consequences are already starting to appear. From time to time on this blog, when a mainstay of Hong Kong life disappears, I’ve come to writing a requiem post, a short obituary lamenting its loss and remembering the good times. The ones that come to mind are when the Chapel and Al’s Diner closed, and when HK Magazine ceased publication. Well, if this virus has its way—and the government continues their botched responses—there’ll be far too many requiems to write. I just hope most of my favorites can weather the storm. But I have my doubts.

Sadly, the Jumbo Floating Restaurant moored in Aberdeen Harbour is now shut until further notice. They say it may re-open once life has returned to normal, but I’m skeptical. If I had to put money on it, I’d say the chances are slim that I’ll ever have dim sum again in the opulent dining hall that’s become one of my favorite spots in Hong Kong.

And even last night the news came that Jimmy’s Kitchen is closing, at least temporarily. The place has been around since 1928, dishing out classics like chicken Kiev and steak Diane. Technically, the owners have told the press that they are not renewing their current lease when it expires in April, but that they intend to re-open in a new location after an indeterminate gap. But I’m skeptical. If I had to put money on it, I’d say the chances are slim that I’ll ever savor another Saint Patrick’s Day with Jimmy’s delectable corned beef and cabbage.

I sincerely hope my beloved Red Pepper in Causeway Bay is not on the chopping block. I went there for lunch today, to do my bit in contributing to its success and also to ensure I got one last taste of their spicy Chongqing diced chicken, just in case.

Still, things are far better here than most other places, and, as a percentage of our overall population, the number of infections in Hong Kong remains very low. But the fact that the government didn’t anticipate such repercussions is shocking. The quarantine should have gone into effect immediately, and, had that happened, we would probably still be a gold standard for the rest of the world.

Because of the surge in cases, Hong Kong has gone back into panic mode. As of Saturday evening, restaurants now have to limit tables to four guests only, and there has to be an empty table between the occupied ones, thus further separating potential infectees. But it’s a darn sight better than a full-on lockdown, which we have—so far—managed to avoid. And I’ve just started to naturally, voluntarily become less social. I want Hong Kong to be able to skirt the mandatory shelter-in-place rules that are now so common elsewhere, so I’m trying to do my bit.

Fredric walks are fewer and shorter, sometimes literally just around the block and then back to the apartment again. And last week, I began voluntarily working from home for the first time. As you can probably guess, the little guy is absolutely delighted to have full day attention. I often turn around to see the pooch curled up on the floor in my little makeshift office, where I also have a great view of IFC 2 and the lovely little Tam Kung temple just outside my window. It’s really quite a pleasant little space! But I’ve also been surprised how productive I have been, and how easy I’ve found it to transition from personal to professional time.

Still, a new television couldn’t have arrived at a more opportune moment. You see, the old LG that Rich and I bought back in 2012 when we first moved into this apartment started malfunctioning back in the fall. I’ve been without one for months, meaning all my Halloween and Christmas favorites were viewed on my tiny laptop. It’s absolute heaven to have a proper screen not just for movies but also to catch up on news from around the world, as I had to continue paying my NowTV bill each month even though I had no device on which I could actually watch it!

Thanks to my new gadget, earlier this morning, I was able to catch the iHeartRadio’s Living Room Concert for America on Fox, with Elton John, Alicia Keys, Mariah Carey and the Backstreet Boys all live streaming performances to brighten people’s lives.

I’ve also begun a new tradition of trying to watch classic flicks on (or close to) the milestone anniversaries of their release dates. Even before this coronavirus epidemic kicked off, I spent some time plotting film titles on my annual desk calendar, particularly those released in years ending in fives or zeros. Buster Keaton’s silent classic Seven Chances was released on 11 March 1925, so I took the opportunity to screen it here on its ninety-fifth birthday. And Alfred Hitchcock’s Best Picture winning Rebecca was released on 21 March 1940, so I threw a little eightieth anniversary celebration for it last Sunday, one day late. All Quiet on the Western Front (turning ninety) and Bride of Frankenstein (turning eighty-five) are both coming up in April.

And one night, looking for something to watch, I wound up signing up for a free Amazon Prime trial, which, when my seven days expired, was so cheap that I just opted to let continue. It’s the first time I’ve ever purchased a streaming package. I finished Crisis in Six Scenes in two evenings and completed The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel—all three seasons—in a week flat, so if you have any other recommendations for shows to binge on through that service, hit me up!

And there have been a few other firsts for me, thanks to this virus. For example, I’ve never been a fan of food delivery, with the rare and specific exception of Pizza Hut. I just believe that food tastes better in a restaurant’s dining room, a few steps away from the kitchen where it was cooked. And that a journey through the streets, on motorbike—for who knows how long—only diminishes the chef’s originally intended product.

But coronavirus has induced me to experiment with two local food delivery platforms, Deliveroo and Food Panda. People in Hong Kong just love these companies, and some seem genuinely shocked to learn that I’ve only sampled them for the first time this month. I limit myself to once per week, but I’ve become a cautious fan. And I may soon up my quota.

So far, I’ve only ordered Indian food in this manner, but I’ve really enjoyed the experience. And perhaps a mid-week delivery of butter chicken and garlic naan will become a staple of my life when this coronavirus fiasco remains but a dim recollection.

Heidi organized a Zoom happy hour to celebrate her birthday last week, another first for me. About twelve or so of her best friends gathered in front of our laptops across the world and sipped drinks and even played a card game, all from the safe seclusion of our own homes. Although I can’t say it was more fun than an in-person meet-up, it was a fresh alternative whose novelty will hopefully endure long enough to see us through this pandemic.

But, in spite of bright spots (or, rather, silver linings) like curry on my couch, international virtual parties, and good weather, the economic repercussions of this virus on the world order are just terrifying. It might not be long before we all start singing “Brother, Can You Spare a Dime?” again.

For me, this is most applicable when I think of travel abroad. Of course, even before all the second-wave developments began to hit Hong Kong, the global situation had deteriorated significantly, with horrifying news each day coming out of Italy, France, Spain and the United States. And so, the mature adult hiding inside of me decided that my upcoming Easter travel plans had to be cancelled. My Burma visa application form, complete with a passport-sized photo paperclipped to it… Well, let’s just slip that back in the drawer.  

My mid-May journey to New Jersey to celebrate both my dad and my sister’s birthdays will almost certainly not happen. And, as you must have read by now, my plans to attend the Summer Olympics in Tokyo will have to be pushed back until at least 2021. But I’m holding out hope that a late June wedding in France will be the inaugural trip to celebrate a post-COVID world. Of course, I’m not making a firm yes-or-no decision yet. But it’s good to have something to look forward to, so I’ll keep dreaming until I know for sure.

And I can always console myself with the international travel potential that exists within Hong Kong’s boundaries, what with its plethora of ethnic restaurants spanning the entire globe. Last Friday, I pretended I was in Switzerland again, when I was really just at The Swiss Chalet on Hart Avenue in Tsim Sha Tsui.

For some reason, one of the little things that gives me extreme pleasure is dining at noontime in a restaurant with a set lunch menu, but instead ordering an exorbitant a la carte feast. So I eschewed the economical three-course prix-fixe and gluttonously ordered a fondue moitie-moitie, a bottle of Chasselas, zabaglione and caramel ice cream with meringue.

As I rode the Star Ferry between Hong Kong Island and Kowloon that day, it reinforced that, in spite of everything happening right now, I’m incredibly lucky to call this place home. Even as Hong Kong struggles and the situation continues to change, this is a great place to be. There’s nowhere else on earth I’d rather weather the coronavirus storm.