The month of September started for me in Mainland China, Hong Kong's enormous neighbor just to the north. I think I've reflected on this blog before that one of my more shocking realizations over the past nearly-eight years is how little time I've actually spent in "mother China," considering the wealth of cultural, culinary and historical interests that lurk within the borders of the world's most populous nation. Now I can say with certainty that this is all about to change. Firmly affixed to my passport is a ten year, unlimited entry visa, meaning I have no more excuses for not exploring the amazing riches of Old Cathay.
The recent week I spent in China was, in essence, a business trip. I've been working closely with one of my corporate clients to set up a new medical insurance policy for their offices in Shanghai and Beijing. With the policy just about to begin, I needed to visit both locations to help get things off to a smooth start. With other clients also located in those cities, in addition to a wealth of insurance companies, it seemed only logical to make a full week out of it. In the end, it was not only a fun trip but also remarkably fruitful from a business perspective.
I arrived in Shanghai late in the afternoon on Sunday, 27 August. I should have arrived earlier, but after boarding the plane in Hong Kong around 10am that morning, Typhoon Pakhar made it impossible for us to take off. We sat on the ground for an additional three hours before we were finally airborne.
It's actually been quite the typhoon season this summer, with several days off work due to severe weather, including the strongest storm I've yet experienced in Hong Kong, Hato, which compelled the Observatory to lift the Typhoon 10 signal for the first time since 2012. (And I happened to be out of town that last time.)
And while the wrath of Pakhar was not quite up to that of Hato, it still caused its fair share of delays to flights arriving and departing our airport. I must say, however, that I hardly noticed. Cathay Dragon did a fantastic job numbing what could have been a very painful experience. While we were still connected to the gate, they started serving meals, turned on the entertainment systems and began bringing around drinks. I watched many episodes of Friends, sipped a few beers and, by the time we landed in Hongqiao Airport, I'd actually had quite a nice, relaxing Sunday.
It's actually been quite the typhoon season this summer, with several days off work due to severe weather, including the strongest storm I've yet experienced in Hong Kong, Hato, which compelled the Observatory to lift the Typhoon 10 signal for the first time since 2012. (And I happened to be out of town that last time.)
My rooftop the morning after Typhoon Hato
And while the wrath of Pakhar was not quite up to that of Hato, it still caused its fair share of delays to flights arriving and departing our airport. I must say, however, that I hardly noticed. Cathay Dragon did a fantastic job numbing what could have been a very painful experience. While we were still connected to the gate, they started serving meals, turned on the entertainment systems and began bringing around drinks. I watched many episodes of Friends, sipped a few beers and, by the time we landed in Hongqiao Airport, I'd actually had quite a nice, relaxing Sunday.
I was staying in Pudong, the futuristic business district on the far bank of the Huangpu River that bisects the city. After a welcome mojito at the hotel's rooftop lounge, Red Passion, I headed out to stroll around the bustling area, eventually snacking on some out-of-this-world dumplings followed by a visit to Cold Stone Creamery.
The view from Red Passion, my hotel's rooftop bar
As mentioned, this was a work trip, so I didn't have quite so much free time during the week. I was shuffling back and forth between meetings with clients, lunches with insurers and visits back to my room to catch up on e-mails. But after my work was finished on Monday, I did manage a visit to another rooftop bar, this time atop the Ritz-Carlton, only a short stroll from my own hotel, the Kempinski.
View of the Bund from Flair, the bar atop the Ritz-Carlton
While the view from the bar, Flair, was typically extraordinary, I think I actually enjoyed walking around at street level even more, gazing up at the trio of mesmerizing skyscrapers that dominate this corner of the city—the Jin Mao Tower, the Shanghai World Financial Center and the Shanghai Tower.
Tuesday was another day of meetings followed by another night of tipples. I made it to the legendary Long Bar at the Waldorf-Astoria on the Bund, probably the most magical street in the city. All floodlit and majestically restored, pretty much every building lining the Bund has a storied history.
The Long Bar itself has many tales to tell of Old Shanghai. In a stroke of incredible luck, that evening there was a special event taking place. Frank Caiafa, former head of the original New York City Waldorf's signature bar, Peacock Alley, was in town mixing modern takes on classic cocktails. I was the only patron in the joint for a long while, and I had a great chat with Frank about a whole range of topics, from Manhattan memories to his impressions of his first trip to Asia, from bartending tales and cocktail conversations to learning about the publication of his new book updating classic recipes from the hotel's early days.
Post-gin, I wandered a long while up and down and all over the Bund. The night before, I had picked up a free brochure detailing the histories of most of the impressive structures, and I enjoyed inspecting them up close. One of my clients had recommended stopping for a rooftop drink at the Banyan Tree hotel, but try though I did, I couldn't seem to locate the place. Still, I soaked up all the atmosphere I possibly could while I attempted to find a suitable alternative.
I finished my evening with a nightcap at VUE in the Park Hyatt, sipping one final G&T gazing out over the twinkling lights of the city. Magnificently positioned at a bend in the river, the venue gives visitors a view over both the post-modern towers of Pudong and the spotlit stone façades of the Bund, the whole history of Shanghai reflected in the still waters of the Huangpu.
If it sounds like my time in Shanghai was spent either in business-related meetings or imbibing in expensive tipples at classy watering holes, than I guess I've done a pretty good job of summarizing the not-quite-three days I spent in town.
On Wednesday morning, I had to head to the train station, where I'd be catching the six hour bullet train to my next destination. Sure, I could have flown, but seeing as I'd ridden eleven planes in less than a month, a leisurely journey by train, even if somewhat longer, was definitely preferable to another airplane ride.
As surprising as it may sound, that afternoon, I laid eyes on Beijing for the first time. Somehow, even after all these years, I'd never made the trip up to China's historic capital. So after checking in to the NUO Hotel Wangfujing—formerly the Raffles—and squeezing in a quick cocktail in the Writer's Bar, I excitedly bolted out the hotel's revolving doors and made a bee-line for Tiananmen Square, just a five minute walk down the street.
Seeing the iconic sight that night was quite a memorable experience, and I took some time to explore picturesque Zhongshan Park before turning in.
My time in Beijing was similarly filled with important meetings, though I also managed to see at least a bit of the city's famous attractions. Mercifully, I had the luxury of being able to attach a free weekend to the tail end of my work trip, but I still didn't come close to experiencing everything.
The most impressive thing I did squeeze in was a visit to the unforgettable Forbidden City, where I rented an audio guide and loved wandering for around three hours. If closing time hadn't intruded, I likely would have spent closer to five! And you can bet that a future visit to Beijing will certainly include a repeat visit to this amazing palace.
I met up with my friend Clément and a few of his buddies for drinks one night as well, savoring Chinese craft beer, burgers and classy cocktails in a speakeasy-like lounge. I made sure to sample the famous Peking duck, too. It was enough to prove that Beijing is my kind of town, and I seriously hope that repeat visit is in the near future.
Before my flight home on Sunday evening, I took a complimentary bike from my hotel lobby and cycled to 798 Factory, a former industrial zone that is now taken over by art studios, galleries and other creative types. Although I didn't even come close to checking off all the items on my Beijing to do list, I'll never forget the introduction I received to this incredible place.
See you soon, China! I look forward to making the most of my new visa and exploring as much of you over the next decade as I possibly can! (I'm already looking at you, Beijing 2022!)
Pudong's iconic trio of towers
Tuesday was another day of meetings followed by another night of tipples. I made it to the legendary Long Bar at the Waldorf-Astoria on the Bund, probably the most magical street in the city. All floodlit and majestically restored, pretty much every building lining the Bund has a storied history.
The Bund-facing façade of Shanghai's Waldorf
The Long Bar itself has many tales to tell of Old Shanghai. In a stroke of incredible luck, that evening there was a special event taking place. Frank Caiafa, former head of the original New York City Waldorf's signature bar, Peacock Alley, was in town mixing modern takes on classic cocktails. I was the only patron in the joint for a long while, and I had a great chat with Frank about a whole range of topics, from Manhattan memories to his impressions of his first trip to Asia, from bartending tales and cocktail conversations to learning about the publication of his new book updating classic recipes from the hotel's early days.
The storied Long Bar
Post-gin, I wandered a long while up and down and all over the Bund. The night before, I had picked up a free brochure detailing the histories of most of the impressive structures, and I enjoyed inspecting them up close. One of my clients had recommended stopping for a rooftop drink at the Banyan Tree hotel, but try though I did, I couldn't seem to locate the place. Still, I soaked up all the atmosphere I possibly could while I attempted to find a suitable alternative.
The Bund by night
I finished my evening with a nightcap at VUE in the Park Hyatt, sipping one final G&T gazing out over the twinkling lights of the city. Magnificently positioned at a bend in the river, the venue gives visitors a view over both the post-modern towers of Pudong and the spotlit stone façades of the Bund, the whole history of Shanghai reflected in the still waters of the Huangpu.
The view from VUE
On Wednesday morning, I had to head to the train station, where I'd be catching the six hour bullet train to my next destination. Sure, I could have flown, but seeing as I'd ridden eleven planes in less than a month, a leisurely journey by train, even if somewhat longer, was definitely preferable to another airplane ride.
As surprising as it may sound, that afternoon, I laid eyes on Beijing for the first time. Somehow, even after all these years, I'd never made the trip up to China's historic capital. So after checking in to the NUO Hotel Wangfujing—formerly the Raffles—and squeezing in a quick cocktail in the Writer's Bar, I excitedly bolted out the hotel's revolving doors and made a bee-line for Tiananmen Square, just a five minute walk down the street.
Seeing the iconic sight that night was quite a memorable experience, and I took some time to explore picturesque Zhongshan Park before turning in.
My time in Beijing was similarly filled with important meetings, though I also managed to see at least a bit of the city's famous attractions. Mercifully, I had the luxury of being able to attach a free weekend to the tail end of my work trip, but I still didn't come close to experiencing everything.
The most impressive thing I did squeeze in was a visit to the unforgettable Forbidden City, where I rented an audio guide and loved wandering for around three hours. If closing time hadn't intruded, I likely would have spent closer to five! And you can bet that a future visit to Beijing will certainly include a repeat visit to this amazing palace.
I met up with my friend Clément and a few of his buddies for drinks one night as well, savoring Chinese craft beer, burgers and classy cocktails in a speakeasy-like lounge. I made sure to sample the famous Peking duck, too. It was enough to prove that Beijing is my kind of town, and I seriously hope that repeat visit is in the near future.
Before my flight home on Sunday evening, I took a complimentary bike from my hotel lobby and cycled to 798 Factory, a former industrial zone that is now taken over by art studios, galleries and other creative types. Although I didn't even come close to checking off all the items on my Beijing to do list, I'll never forget the introduction I received to this incredible place.
See you soon, China! I look forward to making the most of my new visa and exploring as much of you over the next decade as I possibly can! (I'm already looking at you, Beijing 2022!)
