At this very moment, my dad and sister Danielle must be high above the North Pole somewhere, on a United Airlines flight en route from Hong Kong to Newark. We just got to spend nine full days together in Hong Kong, and I can honestly tell you that their rest right now—a fifteen hour flight—is well deserved! I feel so grateful to have gotten a chance, after seven years, to finally show them around the city I call home. And I feel especially thankful to have had them here to celebrate my thirtieth birthday on Thanksgiving day.
Of course, Thursday, November 24th, was a major milestone for me, as I turned thirty years old, with my birthday falling on Turkey Day itself. Thanksgiving 2011, when I turned twenty-five, was the last time my big day and the holiday coincided, and it was also the first Thanksgiving dinner I celebrated on the Happy Valley rooftop I now call home. At the time, I still lived in Wan Chai, but my friend Amy was living here and graciously hosted a dinner party for me. I posted a blog at the time reflecting on turning twenty-five and acknowledging how thankful I was for all that had happened in my life up to that point. Five years on, while many things in my life have changed—like my job and my apartment—it is still undoubtedly true that I'm one lucky guy, and I felt so fortunate to have such good friends in addition to my dad and sister to properly celebrate.
Normally, I pack my itineraries when visitors are in town, filling every spare moment with sightseeing and tourist attractions. But this time, I mainly planned a series of meals and decided to let Hong Kong dictate the rest. I didn't want any stress or worries, just relaxation and fun. And I think, for the most part, I succeeded in showing off the place I love most to the two people I love most.
Dad and Danii arrived around 8pm on Sunday night, and we headed straight home to Happy Valley via taxi, so they could unwind after the longest flight either of them had ever taken. Danii and I ran their bags up the stairs—all six flights of them—while the old man waited downstairs. And then we parked ourselves in the local pub, The Jockey, just a few steps away. After dinner, of course, they relished the chance to meet Fredric for the first time, after hearing countless stories and seeing so many pictures. We chilled out on my rooftop and Danii and I split a mini bottle of champagne to celebrate their arrival.
It was such a special feeling to be sitting on that rooftop with them, as Fredric frolicked around, and my sister snapped photos of the view on her iPhone. I'd been waiting a long time for this welcome ceremony, and it went off without a hitch.
The next morning when we woke up, I took Danii on an impromptu walking tour of Happy Valley and Causeway Bay, to give her a good feel for the neighborhood I call home. We even rode the tram back to the apartment after popping into a few gyms and fitness centers, so that she could inquire about some fitness sessions she read about online.
Unfortunately, Monday was a working day for me, as I had so much going on that I couldn't take as much time off as I had initially hoped. Still, I know they enjoyed spending time with Fredric as they combated the jet-lag, while I completed some necessary insurance-related chores in the office.
Dinner that night was specially picked out to confuse my dad. It was his first full day in Asia, so I planned to take him for some of the best Italian food this town has to offer. Duck ravioli, sea bass and beetroot salad certainly did the trick. Doppio Zero has been one of my favorite spots since my friend Chiara took me there many moons ago. And although I don't visit as much as I'd like—which is odd considering it's literally steps away from my office—I'm very glad I got to share it with Dad and Danielle.
As we rode home in a taxi, I realized it was a crystal clear night. The weather forecast, to be honest, wasn't promising. And for all I knew, tomorrow might bring fog and rain. Moreover, since you never know how long bad weather can linger in Hong Kong, this might have been the last sterling opportunity for a Peak jaunt. So I seized on the chance to take Danii straight up, with Fredric in tow, of course! Her reaction as we rounded bend on Lugard Road, with all of the SAR spread out before us, was just as I had imagined it to be.
Because of a late night conference call on alternating Tuesdays, I actually didn't have to be in the office until late the next day, so we took the morning and early afternoon to explore Wan Chai. We had a quick breakfast a Papillon, in the Hopewell Center, and then I surprised my dynamic duo with my favorite elevator ride in town. They thought we were just riding a normal elevator at first, until it emerged from its cocoon revealing glass walls and a view out over the city. Let's just say, they were both seriously wowed.
The weather was far from ideal, but the streets of Wan Chai are a great place to let Hong Kong soak in, with its chaotic mix of locals, expats and tourists all scurrying about. We stopped into the nearby temple, wandered the street market with its mystery meat and live fish and crustaceans, and got a real sense of one of my favorite parts of town.
Of course, we also had a great lunch at Crystal Jade, consisting of dumplings, noodles and other amazing Chinese specialties. My dad even ordered a special herbal tea that he said was wonderful. I had loved teasing these two over those first few meals, first at the local pub and then at the stellar Italian spot. But now was the time to properly indulge in authentic Asian fare. And, oh, did they love it! Eventually, we had to make our way back home so I could don my suit and head to the office, but that morning was pretty near perfect.
My dad and sister's first real challenge of this trip would be to meet me for dinner! As I was heading to the restaurant straight from the office, they had to make their way from Happy Valley to Lan Kwai Fong in a taxi. We were meeting my friends James and Katie for out-of-this-world burgers at Beef and Liberty, and when I entered the restaurant, I was very relieved to see my dad, sister and James all chatting away. They had made it, with no problems at all!
Sadly, I had to rush out of dinner a little early to make that conference call, but James and Katie kept my dad and sister company until they had to head home. And you can bet I, too, was on my way back as soon as the call was over.
Wednesday was another fun and memorable day, even though I was stuck for a great deal of it within the confines of my office. Still, luckily, with my friends Sarah and David visiting Hong Kong, I was able to procure a dedicated expert tour guide for my out-of-towners. Sarah obviously knows this city incredibly well, owing to the years she used to live here. She was obviously excited to show it off to her boyfriend David, and they were both thrilled at the prospect of getting to show my family around, too.
We all met for lunch at Watermark, a stellar seafood spot above the Star Ferry pier. And afterwards, when I had to beeline it back to work, Sarah, David, Dad and Danii, now a quartet, crossed Victoria Harbour on that iconic vessel and hit up the Hong Kong Museum of History, a spot I was bent on ensuring they found the time to visit.
Needless to say, I was just counting down the hours until my official duties could be put on hold. And I was so glad to finally be free after 6pm that evening!
Although my dad was still feeling the jet-lag a bit, Danii and I headed over to Happy Valley Racetrack to soak up the fervor of the mid-week meeting. We lost all our bets, but it was still a fun time, and we capped it off with my first visit to Pang's Kitchen, a Michelin-starred Chinese restaurant hidden on Yik Yam Street, just a few steps from my front door. The waiter was extremely friendly, and their quirky sweet and sour pork with strawberries was certainly a memorable last meal of my twenties!
We
started that day needing to procure a turkey. You see, although I debated with a beach barbecue or junk outing to celebrate, I ultimately settled on a supersized Thanksgiving
rooftop bash at my apartment. The idea was that my
dad, sister and I would contribute the turkey, and everybody coming would bring
some other assorted dish. In other words, it would be an exaggerated version of
my standard Thanksgiving potluck party, which I host every year. Just, this time, instead of the fifteen or so people I usually invite, here the guest list ballooned
to over fifty!
At
Pacific Place in Admiralty that morning, we found the perfect bird—already cooked
and ready to serve—in Great, a sprawling international supermarket located in
the basement of the mall. And after dropping it home, and ensuring it was placed
somewhere that Fredric couldn’t disturb it, we headed off for the day’s events.
A
taxi deposited us in Aberdeen, where I took my dad and sister for a stroll
along the waterfront praya, with the innumerable sampans and fishing
trawlers bobbing about in the crowded harbor. But the main object of the visit
was not the promenade but the floating restaurant, Jumbo, which serves an
amazing dim sum in the most impressive and opulent of settings.
You
may remember that earlier this year, back in January, my good buddy Joe came to
town, and I took the opportunity to hit up the Jumbo for dim sum for the first
time, since all my previous calls had been for brunch or dinner. Well, that experience pretty much made up my mind that no visitor of mine will ever
again be allowed to escape Hong Kong without a dim sum visit to the iconic
place.
Both
Dad and Danii just seemed to love the whole shebang, from the jaunty boat
ride that whisks diners from pier to restaurant, to the char siu bau and
har gau favorites that populated our table, to the honey-roasted and
crispy pork varieties of siu mei that I selected to complement the
dumplings.
But
I don’t think either of them would disagree that the absolute highpoint of the
meal was our photography session with Qing Dynasty garb at the front of the
dining hall. Just like Joe and I had done, we donned traditional robes and accessories,
laughing all the while as the quirky photographer told us how to pose for his
camera. We took home two plates, one destined for New Jersey and another I
intend to display proudly in Happy Valley for as long as it lasts.
Aberdeen’s
proximity to Ocean Park made an obviously easy segue into a very fun afternoon.
My sister loves amusement parks, and from the first time I visited Ocean Park
back in 2010, I knew it would find a place on her itinerary whenever she came
to visit. (I never imagined it would take so long!)
Ocean
Park is famous in Hong Kong for allowing residents to enter for free on their
birthdays. So, since we’d be going at some point during their visit anyway, it
made total sense to slip it in here. Since it's also among the most photogenic amusement parks I know, I was utterly delighted that the elements cooperated, providing beautiful blue skies and billowy clouds to complement the already-splendorous topography of the southern side of Hong Kong Island.
Yes, from
the pandas to the rollercoasters, from the cable car ride to the dolphin show, all
complemented by the gorgeous late November weather, it was a day to remember. Both
my dad and my sister loved the park, and I’ll always remember my momentous
thirtieth.
Back
at the flat, it was time for the guests to arrive. So many friends made their
way to the roof that night, and we had plentiful food. It was so wonderful to
introduce my dad and sister to some of the people who have so touched my life
over these past seven years. And with out of town returnees like Sarah and David and Eleni and Patrick along for the ride, I
felt supremely lucky to get to celebrate with so many amazing faces.
I
knew it would be a late night—and I also wanted to do something significant to
mark my first full day of thirty-hood—so I made sure long ago that I would not
have to report to work on Friday. My plan was to take Dad and Danii to Cheung
Chau, my favorite of Hong Kong’s outlying islands, for a lazy day of wandering near the beaches and
feasting on fresh seafood at one of its famed waterfront eateries.
With
the lone exception of a work truck splashing a murky puddle of water all over
my dad’s white t-shirt, the day played out in immaculate fashion. We found prime real estate at
New Baccarat for salt and pepper squid and whole steamed fish, caught a break at the beachside Windsurfer Café—where we were
treated to a dramatic helicopter landing—and navigated the tangled web of
streets that make up this pint-sized gem.
Back
on Hong Kong Island, it was clear we were all up for a relaxing Friday evening.
While dad stayed home with Fredric watching television in the living room,
Danielle and I hopped around the corner to indulge in foot massages!
I
really wanted to give her a taste of SoHo and LKF, so, afterwards, we headed to
Central, up to atmospheric Elgin Street, where we plopped down at Soul Food for
a delicious Thai dinner and a cocktail or two. Of course, I ensured we walked
down through Lan Kwai afterwards, showing Danii the fervor of a boozy Friday
evening on the city’s preeminent party street. Al’s Diner was obviously filled
to the brim as we moseyed past, but, shockingly, we opted to carry on by, mindful
of a big day we had planned for Saturday in Macau.
Now,
by this point in my Hong Kong life, I think we’re all aware that I’m a big fan
of that charming former Portuguese colony just an hour by boat from my home
city. So I’m sure it won’t surprise you to learn there was no way I was letting
my visitors forego a trip over during their stay.
Thus, on Saturday morning, we caught the TuboJet from the Macau Ferry Terminal in
Sheung Wan and, before long, were waiting on the passport line to enter our
sister SAR.
I
have a shortlist of favorite eateries scattered around the Macau Peninsula and
Taipa and Coloane, formerly a pair of islands that have since been joined via
land reclamation into one giant one. Fernando’s, on the farthest stretch of Hac
Sa Beach, is probably the most famous (and, for this reason, the most crowded). Don't get me wrong: I do love
the place, but there is such a wealth of culinary treasures waiting to be discovered
in Macau that I must confess, I’m always a bit baffled by people who’ve never
explored any further than that rustic beachfront dining room, where you often have to wait an hour for a table, to boot!
Nga
Tim Café is probably my top pick for ambiance, with its fairy tale al fresco
location on Coloane’s tiny town square, the wavy tiles, gurgling fountain and
picture-perfect view of the pastel-colored chapel of Saint Francis Xavier.
As
my Frommer’s guide gushes, “when the weather is perfect, there’s no finer place
in Macau.” But on a less than stellar day, or when the food itself is the
ultimate objective, the lovely Espaco Lisboa, just around the corner, would
probably get my vote, if only by a nose.
Decisions, decisions...
Decisions, decisions...
Well, in addition to sharing my favorite places with out-of-town guests, I’ve fallen into the habit of aiming to include one new thing that even I haven't done yet—be it attraction, restaurant or bar—on every visitor’s itinerary, to know that I’m also making new memories with my guests. And there’s a place on Taipa, near the towering casinos of the Cotai Strip, that I’d been meaning to try for years now, called Antonio.
So,
that afternoon, we sampled the glories of Antonio, and let me assure you, this
first visit won’t be my last. From a decadent African chicken to pitch-perfect sangria,
and even a helping of Port, the meal was simply stellar. And its location
within colorful old Taipa village made for memorable wandering both pre- and
post-lunch, including a stop at the Taipa Houses Museum.
Since it’s
against Paul's Law to come to Macau as a first timer and not at least test your luck at
the tables, we made time to squeeze in some roulette and slots at the nearby Venetian after our stroll. And, all in all, I think it was a pretty perfect day in Hong Kong’s
famous neighbor. Under more leisurely circumstances, I would have probably tried to book a hotel, so we could really soak this place up for a night or two. But that will have to wait for a future visit.
Again,
once we had returned to Hong Kong, my dad opted to chill out with Fredric in
the apartment, but I coaxed my sister out for dinner, up the street at a tiny
French brasserie called Jules. I’ve been walking past its authentic-looking Gallic front for awhile now, but this was my first time inside. (The whole thing really feels beamed straight from the Latin Quarter.) When the waitress
informed me there was a single portion of their signature fondue remaining, which she could secure for us if we were interested, I naturally took her up on the offer. Do you really think I could have let it go to someone else?
Now,
my dad and sister—East Coasters their whole lives—had been considering the Hong
Kong humidity somewhat stifling during their trip up to this point, so much so that
off-season air conditioning had become a permanent fixture of my flat during
their residence. I, on the other hand, had definitely noticed the dip in temperature
as our winter approached. So a warm and gooey end to a magical Saturday
proved a wonderfully suitable manner to draw the day to a close.
Sunday
was going to be our last full day as a trio. You see, although Dad and Danii
wouldn’t be flying out until Wednesday morning, I couldn’t secure Monday or
Tuesday off from work. Sure, I’d be able to run out for lunch, and had
definitely planned nocturnal festivities for when I had left the office, but I
wanted to make the most of this opportunity and turn Sunday into a full-fledged
day on the town.
One
of my go-to Hong Kong brunches of the moment—and a dog friendly one to boot!—is
Stone Nullah Tavern, over in a quiet corner of Wan Chai that is in an especially enigmatic phase of its transformation from humble Chinese neighborhood to ritzy, international
destination. There are cheap noodle joints, one of my favorite local temples, heaps
of cacophonous car repair shops and, now, the increasingly frequent appearance of a new Western-style bar or
eatery. The juxtaposition is a microcosm of East-meets-West Hong Kong itself,
but, of course, the perfection of such conversions can’t endure. Pretty soon,
the whole place will go too far in the other direction, the noodle joints all
vanished, the car repair shops transmuted into galleries and coffee shops. But,
while it lasts, the status quo is simply stellar. And, so, I’m trying to spend a
significant amount of time here.
Stone
Nullah offers free flow margaritas, a do-it-yourself nacho bar and lots of
tasty treats on their menu. And sitting in the funkily-decorated dining room
made for a splendid start to our day.
We
also had a chance to meet up with my friends Christine and Jim, whom you may
remember from when they hosted me in Rangoon during my Chinese New Year trip back
in February. Spending a weekend in Hong Kong, these guys definitely brightened
the day and it was great to introduce them to my dad and sister during their
rare joint appearance in SoHo.
But
the main goal for the day was to tackle Stanley, our beloved seaside village on
the southern side of Hong Kong Island. The weather was great, and I think Stanley
really showcases the languid lifestyle of a Hong Kong expat in the most
palpable manner possible, the care-free, outdoor, waterfront revelry that sees
so many initially projected two year assignees opting to extend their stay
indefinitely and winding up lingering for decades.
There’s
a lively string of restaurants and bars that line the playa, the
sea-facing avenue with the most perfect of views. However, Stanley’s best
cuisine is actually a street or two back, on a quiet lane with no oceanfront
panorama, at an enchanting Mediterranean spot called Lucy’s. So, my solution has
always been to stop for a drink or two at a seaside patio before migrating around
the corner to this stunner of a restaurant.
Luckily,
the lone outdoor (and thus dog-appropriate) table was free when we approached,
so down we went, for what my dad later proclaimed might just have been the
culinary highlight of his trip. Sitting in the open air with Fredric frolicking
about and the delicious fare on offer, it was a leisurely Sunday night, just
like I had predicted it would be.
Monday
was a painfully-long work day for me, but I know my dad and sister understood
that I couldn’t take any more time off during their visit. I was glad Danii felt confident enough to take Dad up to the Peak to show him the view during a stunningly sunny interlude. Still, you can bet I
put all the day’s eggs in the dinner basket, as this was the night I had booked
a table at American Restaurant for decadent Peking duck.
We
actually took the tram that evening, the first time I coaxed my old man onto
the iconic ding ding that provides the most memorable journey from the streets of Happy Valley to frenetic Wan Chai, where the restaurant is located. Although there was a bit of rush hour traffic, it is always a fun way to get around town. And, before long,
we were seated in the ground floor of one of my absolute favorite eateries on
this earth, ready for our feast.
And a feast it was. In addition to the famous duck, we had mutton and sizzling beef
and sizzling prawns. And delectable steamed broccoli with garlic. We even mustered the space to fit in the caramelized apple
and banana dumplings for dessert.
Of
course, I couldn’t resist the temptation to whisk my guests up to the rooftop
bar at nearby Wooloomooloo after dinner, where a drink with a view always provides
a wonderful nightcap, the twinkling lights of the city glittering in every direction.
For
the final lunch in Hong Kong on Tuesday, I was pleasantly surprised to hear a
request for a repeat visit to Beef and Liberty. And how could I
refuse? My dad and sister made it to the restaurant on their own again, and I
ran over from my office to meet them for another stellar round of burgers.
I
had really wanted to trek out to Tai Wai on Tuesday night to treat my guests to
a final Indonesian meal at Sha Tin Inn. But my dad liked the idea of chilling
in Happy Valley, an area he had simply come to adore over the past nine days.
So I amended our plans and we instead headed around the corner to Feather and
Bone, a sensational new butcher shop near the tram terminus where, if you wish,
they cook the meat for you right then and there, even adding on a few side
dishes, like fries and fresh vegetables.
With
a convivial garden out back, meaning Fredric can tag along, Feather and Bone
is an outstanding new Valley find, one where I know I will soon become a frequent
caller. The high marks from Dad were music to my ears, and I was so glad
I had listened, and not forced a forty-minute taxi ride into what had become a
very relaxed final evening. We even popped into another local spot, Classified, to squeeze in a cheese platter before scaling the six long flights back up to my place. ("O.K., time to go climb Mount Everest," my dad would say each time we had to return home.)
Once we had reached base camp, sitting on my roof savoring one last cigar, my dad promised he'd be back. I plan to hold him to his word, and I look forward to showing more of the joys of the Pearl of the Orient off to the people I love most.
