I'm in Siem Reap right now, midway through a quick jaunt around the famous temples of Angkor Wat with Heidi. Expect an update when I've returned to Hong Kong detailing our exploits. But, while you're waiting, we also just zipped through an amazing five days in Hong Kong (plus a side trip to Macau!), full of good food, strong drinks, late nights, bustling markets, choppy ferries, new friends, old habits and dizzying views.
As one of my best friends, Heidi's been long overdue for a visit for some time now. In fact, my last day in New York City back in 2009, before I hopped on a plane and moved halfway 'round the world, was spent gallivanting around Manhattan with Heidi, hitting up some favorite hot spots and savoring my last hours in the United States! Since I touched down in Hong Kong nearly seven years ago, I've been trying to convince her to come visit. And on my many visits home, when I've often stayed with her on the Upper West Side, I've regaled her with tales of life in the Pearl of the Orient, in hopes that she'd one day be induced to visit. Apparently, after seven years of it, she was persuaded.
Heidi arrived super early in the morning of the eighth of October, just before 5am. It was so early, in fact, that I had to catch a bus to meet her at Hong Kong International because trains weren't even running yet. And after she collected her bag and cleared customs, we caught the first Airport Express to the city. Quiet streets and her relatively manageable suitcase convinced me that the trusty tram was the best way to shuttle Heidi to Happy Valley, so she could catch her first glimpses of Hong Kong as it slowly came to life on a sleepy Saturday morning.
Introductions, naturally, were in order, and I was very happy that Heidi had a chance to meet my roommate Max, who promptly grilled her on her geography skills, and, of course, Fredric, to whom she took an instant liking! After a quick local breakfast of pineapple buns and milk tea, we caught a cab to the Peak Tram to make our way to the top of Hong Kong Island.
There was a good reason I put the Peak visit so early in Heidi's itinerary. A few days before her arrival, Cathay Pacific—Hong Kong's flagship airline—retired the iconic Boeing 747. It had completed its last scheduled route by this point, but Saturday morning, around 10am, it was set to make a celebratory "low flight" over Hong Kong to allow the public a chance to say farewell.
Waiting for the Peak Tram
There was a good reason I put the Peak visit so early in Heidi's itinerary. A few days before her arrival, Cathay Pacific—Hong Kong's flagship airline—retired the iconic Boeing 747. It had completed its last scheduled route by this point, but Saturday morning, around 10am, it was set to make a celebratory "low flight" over Hong Kong to allow the public a chance to say farewell.
When I read about this in the papers, I immediately decided Heidi and I would try to catch the spectacle from atop Victoria Peak. And I wasn't alone! Indeed, it felt like the whole of Hong Kong had the same idea. When we reached the top of the Peak, we did the circular walk, and by the time we rounded the turn that gives way to unparalleled views of Hong Kong's skyline, hundreds and hundreds of people were already waiting, with still over an hour until the scheduled flyover!
So many people!
We staked out some good spots and waited for the show... A little before 10:30am, someone pointed to the west and said, "There she is!" Sure enough, a 747 was flying above the city. In my head, I imagined a truly low flight storming through town, below the level of the towers. In actual fact, the plane was still quite a safe distance above the buildings, and it was a bit underwhelming considering the dramatic image I had envisioned over the previous few days.
Arrivederci, 747
Still, Heidi got to see the Peak in all its glory, and, along with the rest of Hong Kong, we got to bid adieu to a little piece of aviation history. And it was just the start of one of the most jam-packed days I've ever had in the SAR.
Welcome to Hong Kong!
We rode the Peak Tram back down and meandered through the grounds of Saint John's Cathedral before cutting through the Standard Chartered Bank Building, one of my favorite skyscrapers in Central, and the HSBC Building, where we paused to rub the paws of one of its bronze lions. Hungry again at this point, we made a beeline for Crystal Jade in nearby IFC mall, where we had a veritable feast of Chinese dumplings and noodles. As you know, Crystal Jade is one of my favorite restaurants in town, and I love sharing it with all my visitors. I was so delighted that Heidi seemed as taken by the food as I always am! And it was also the perfect venue to introduce Heidi to a Cantonese phrase that would come to define our adventures: Ho bao, which means I'm full. We had enough food for a table of four (or more), and we pretty much ate everything.
We ate all these and more...
We partook in an obligatory crossing of Victoria Harbor aboard the Star Ferry, disembarking in Tsim Sha Tsui, where we ducked into the Peninsula on our way to Nathan Road. I'll always have a soft spot for the elegant grande dame of Hong Kong's posh hotels. Although we didn't stop for afternoon tea and just had a quick jaunt around the place, it's still always fun to walk through the old world lobby and hushed corridors of this graceful temple of luxury.
Looking down over the lobby from a balcony where the musicians serenade afternoon tea-goers
We had one mission to complete in the midst of all the sightseeing. With our trip to Cambodia only a few days in the future, my Pen was in dire need of some TLC from Raymond, a master camera repair man with a jumbled office in Mong Kok. The camera'd been working slower than usual since I got back from Jakarta, and on Friday, a screw popped off the lens, meaning I had to manually hold the lens up to the body whenever I wanted to snap a photograph. I had almost taken it in to be repaired before Heidi's arrival, but as it was at least marginally working, I really wanted it to capture a shot of the 747 cruising over the city. So up we went to Raymond's mad laboratory of camera repair to drop it off that afternoon.
Mong Kok is an epicenter of Hong Kong's markets, and we pretty much hit up each and every one of them afterwards. We walked through the Ladies Market towards Fa Yuen Street, crossing Prince Edward Road to walk along the Flower Market and arrive at the Yuen Po Street Bird Garden.
Beautiful cages on sale at Yuen Po Street Bird Garden
Back on the southern side of Prince Edward Road, we traversed Tung Choi Street, pausing often to admire the colorful goldfish, terrapins and reptiles that populate the bustling market street. Having retraced our steps to Yau Ma Tei, we ducked into the Tin Hau Temple and watched as a few stalls of the Temple Street Market began to show signs of life.
Tung Choi Street's Goldfish Market
Then, pangs of hunger inexplicably returned, and since we were near Mido Cafe, we decided to plop down for a snack. A mid-afternoon break consisting of Hong Kong French Toast has become de rigueur for many of my out of town visitors. Magically preserved in a perpetual 1950s limbo, Mido is a very retro place to chill out for an hour or so, especially after frantic market hopping in Kowloon.
And because Mido was double-recommended to Heidi by both yours truly and none other than Anthony Bourdain himself, she was very keen to indulge. (Heidi watched an episode of his show set in Hong Kong to prepare for the trip.) Of course, the iconic cafe more than fulfilled its role as a vibrant and tasty respite from the chaotic streets below.
Yau Ma Tei's Mido Cafe
And because Mido was double-recommended to Heidi by both yours truly and none other than Anthony Bourdain himself, she was very keen to indulge. (Heidi watched an episode of his show set in Hong Kong to prepare for the trip.) Of course, the iconic cafe more than fulfilled its role as a vibrant and tasty respite from the chaotic streets below.
Hong Kong French Toast
Heidi bought some jade at the eponymous Jade Market afterwards, and then I had an idea. The skies were commencing the darken, and the ICC was towering in the distance. What better way to cap off the fading afternoon than with a celebratory cocktail at the world's highest bar? We traipsed over to West Kowloon and entered the Ritz Carlton. Soon enough, we were in an elevator skyrocketing up to the one hundred and eighteenth floor of the sleek tower, where we got ourselves a pair of gin and tonics and watched night fall over the dizzying metropolis.
Top of the world...
By the time we left, the skies were black and it was time to make a decision about dinner. While five days is enough to get a good impression of Hong Kong, it would probably take me more than a month to take a visitor to each and every eatery on my "favorites" list. And, as such, I provided Heidi with three or four options for the evening's feast. In the end, she chose Indonesian food at the tranquil Shatin Inn in the New Territories.
Now I know you're probably sick of reading about this place since I write about it so often, but I really can't think of another place in Hong Kong that's quite as beguiling. With the lights twinkling in its airy garden and the sizzling satays grilling upon your table (and not forgetting the accompanying killer peanut sauce), mixed with chirpy staff and a dog-friendly pet policy, Shatin Inn is not just one of my favorite places in Hong Kong but indeed anywhere.
Over the course of my many visits, both alone and as part of a group, I've become friendly with Sonia, the type of gregarious waitress whose good nature and droll sense of humor can add so much to a meal. (Once, when I came by myself after the races, she sat down at my table and split a bottle of Tsing Tao with me because she felt bad that I was alone.) While Heidi and I were feasting on the satays and beef rendang, Sonia whipped out some genuine 1970s curios from the restaurants past, including a wooden business card and an old version of the menu that was identical to the one you're handed to this very day... until you look at the prices!
Heidi, Fredric and I lingered in the outdoor garden—which we had all to ourselves—until Sonia hinted that it was getting late (read: I'd like to go home soon.) And although we flirted with the idea of going out, a "twenty minute nap" (from which neither Heidi nor I awoke) sealed our fate on what had become a pretty perfect first day.
Now I know you're probably sick of reading about this place since I write about it so often, but I really can't think of another place in Hong Kong that's quite as beguiling. With the lights twinkling in its airy garden and the sizzling satays grilling upon your table (and not forgetting the accompanying killer peanut sauce), mixed with chirpy staff and a dog-friendly pet policy, Shatin Inn is not just one of my favorite places in Hong Kong but indeed anywhere.
Shatin Inn from the road
Over the course of my many visits, both alone and as part of a group, I've become friendly with Sonia, the type of gregarious waitress whose good nature and droll sense of humor can add so much to a meal. (Once, when I came by myself after the races, she sat down at my table and split a bottle of Tsing Tao with me because she felt bad that I was alone.) While Heidi and I were feasting on the satays and beef rendang, Sonia whipped out some genuine 1970s curios from the restaurants past, including a wooden business card and an old version of the menu that was identical to the one you're handed to this very day... until you look at the prices!
Satays, beef rendang and Tsing Tao—who could ask for anything more?
Heidi, Fredric and I lingered in the outdoor garden—which we had all to ourselves—until Sonia hinted that it was getting late (read: I'd like to go home soon.) And although we flirted with the idea of going out, a "twenty minute nap" (from which neither Heidi nor I awoke) sealed our fate on what had become a pretty perfect first day.
Sunday started with mass at Saint Margaret's Church in Happy Valley. And it was quite strange for me to realize this, but it wound up being the first time I attended a mass in Cantonese. Over all of my travels, I've sat through memorable services in French and Italian, Thai and Tamil. But in seven years in Hong Kong, an English service has always presented itself and I'd never been to one in the local language!
Saint Margaret's Church
Attending mass in a foreign language is a very special thing, and that mass further proved it. Both Heidi and myself have enough familiarity with the order of service as to know almost exactly what is going on at all times, but hearing to cadence and rhythm of prayers in an unknown tongue is very memorable. Even the priest's sermon was enjoyable, listening to the congregation laugh at his jokes or react to his advice, not understanding one word of what he was saying but seeing how rapt the parishioners were listening to him speak.
After mass, we met up with my friends Ana, Ben and Angele at Wan Chai's Star Ferry Pier, crossing over to Kowloon again for brunch at the recently re-opened Cafe Deco. Formerly located atop the Peak, rent increases forced the restaurant to vacate its iconic location. But it's now perched atop The One, a shopping mall and skyscraper overlooking the whole of the harbor, and it was great to feast on oysters, crepes, cheese, cold cuts and unlimited desserts in the art deco-inspired dining room, with a view to die for!
Brunch crew!
Although my nights out in Hong Kong are normally centered around either Wan Chai or Lan Kwai Fong, TST actually hides a wealth of amazing bars, lounges and clubs that provide a nice complement to those on Hong Kong Island. And since we were on the Dark Side already, it made sense to indulge in a post-brunch libation at one of my favorite TST watering holes, Tequila Jack's. They do tasty Margaritas that are of phenomenal value, and with outdoor seating, it's a nice place to kill an hour or two.
Walking from brunch to Tequila Jack's in TST
Ben and Angele headed home, but Ana, Heidi and I migrated a few hundred meters south, from Tequila Jack's to the Avenue of Stars—passing the relocated Bruce Lee statue en route—to watch the 8pm laser show, A Symphony of Light. In a stereotypical Hong Kong move, we then caught the Star Ferry back across to Hong Kong Island, rode the Escalator up into SoHo and finished our night in Lan Kwai Fong!
Long live Bruce Lee
Monday was a public holiday in Hong Kong—Chung Yeung Festival—so I had the day off from work. And since Heidi told me long in advance of this trip that a visit to Macau was something she was very interested to squeeze into her itinerary, we paid a visit to the former Portuguese colony to spend the day. (First, we fit in a visit to a favorite local greasy spoon, Cheung Sing Cafe, where we indulged in fried beef noodles and Singapore fried vermicelli!)
On a nice afternoon, there's really only one spot to go for lunch in Macau: Nga Tim Cafe, a sleepy little eatery sheltered by the arches of Largo Eduardo Marques, within earshot of the plop-plop of its fountain commemorating the fisherman of Coloane's 1910 victory over the pirates who terrorized the island when it was a little-known outpost at the far end of Portugal's mighty empire. With some refreshing sangria complemented by clams in white wine, roast suckling pig, crunchy cod fritters and those fluffy Portuguese rolls the chefs of Macau make so well, the meal was the stuff of legend. Ho bao, again. And again... and again. (It still didn't prevent us from paying a visit to Lord Stowe's for their signature egg tarts. When in Macau...)
Overlooking Largo Eduardo Marques
Wandering around Coloane is an incredible experience. Beam a first time visitor there from a remote location, and I guarantee they'll be completely confused as to where they've arrived. The Portuguese street tiles configured into junks, sunsets, and other icons of Macanese life lend an Iberian air to the place; the dried seafood stores send strong scents of Asia; the colonial facades with their pale pastel hues look straight out of a centuries-old European postcard, but the signs are almost universally bi-lingual, with Portuguese and Chinese names for each street, shop and square. It's a quiet yet breathtaking place to soak it all in, and begin to unravel the mysteries of Macau.
For better or for worse, Macau has become known to the world as a gambling Mecca, as Asia's Vegas, where fortunes are made and lost over a roulette wheel or game of black jack. The casinos have played a huge role in Macau for centuries, but to truly get to know the place, you have to get far away from the glittering lights, to the places like Coloane.
We couldn't find a taxi back to the Macau Peninsula, but before long a bus came by that was headed in our direction. It was a long ride criss-crossing nearly the entirety of Macau, but owing to our limited time, it was also pretty much a private tour of the place, until the last bit when the bus started to fill up with locals. We hopped off at the Macau Tower and began a long, slow wander around the UNESCO World Heritage sights of the old city.
Every time I walk these streets, I am so won over that I begin to dream aloud about one day living in Macau. Poor Heidi was treated to an earful that night. True, as long as I have a day job that needs me in an office in Central, it's a far-fetched idea. But assuming one day I'll have the freedom to work from home, or perhaps take some time off from work to simply relax and explore, Macau is high on my list of future places to call home.
After ticking off A Ma Temple, the Moorish Barracks, Lilau Square, a bevy of colonial churches, the famous ruins of Saint Paul's and the Fortaleza do Monte, it was time for a second helping of Sangria, this time in the courtyard of Albergue 1601, which—again—we had all to ourselves. We ordered a Portuguese cheese and meat platter, and watched as the animal-shaped lanterns danced in the moss-covered trees.
Of course, I couldn't let Heidi leave town without at least a quick shot at her luck at one of the thirty-plus casinos that have spread Macau's fame around the world. The Portuguese first legalized gambling in their colony way back in the 1850s, and in 2007, the tiny place even overtook Las Vegas in terms of gaming revenues. So I'm sure nobody will begrudge us a little fun at the slots at the Grand Lisboa.
True, we didn't walk away any richer than we'd sat down, but our initial investment kept us going for a little while. And it's hard to sail back to Hong Kong without at least a quick visit to the gaudy, ostentatious behemoths that juxtapose so garishly with the beautiful colonial heritage sites.
Tuesday—alas—was a work day for me. I had a late conference call with a client in New York, so I didn't have to be in the office until 1pm, but I would be stuck there until 10 that night. Since Heidi and I had the morning to recover from an exhausting three days, we grabbed a coffee at Happy Alley, a dog friendly Austrian coffee bar around the corner from my front door, And then we rode the ding ding to Central, where I set her on her way to see the Big Buddha on Lantau Island.
When we reconnected for my "dinner hour" before the call, I was still so stuffed from a team lunch that I couldn't eat another mouthful. But we wandered around Sheung Wan for a bit, and when we walked down Cat Street, I recommended Heidi check out Man Mo Cafe, another restaurant vying for my top pick of Hong Kong dining establishments. When I came down to my office lobby after the call ended, I was delightfully surprised to be presented with leftover burgerbuns, one of Man Mo's signature dim sum dishes.
Ana works at a trendy bar called Shore, a few minutes' walk from my office. Now finally finished with work, Heidi and I popped in to pay her a visit—and to enjoy a drink or two on the expansive outdoor terrace. When Ana herself was finished with her shift, we hopped along to Wyndham Street, where we had a round of drinks in one of Hong Kong's premier gin bars, Origin, which has some very photogenic cocktails on offer, including the KGB, which is served in a porcelain bathtub complete with a rubber duck.
Wednesday, as you know, may be my favorite night in Hong Kong, thanks mostly to the Happy Valley horse races that are capped off by Ladies Night in neighboring Wan Chai. I've been pushing Heidi to visit me since pretty much day one, and every time, I've urged her to make sure she ensures she's in town for a Wednesday. So I'm so glad that after a long day at work—and Heidi's visit to the Hong Kong Museum of History—we were able to reunite in Happy Valley. My colleagues Mike and Carlo joined, in addition to Praw, who was in town from our Bangkok office.
It was great to finish off Heidi's time in Hong Kong with a bang, before heading to the airport super early the next morning for to kick start our adventures in Cambodia!
Coloane Sunset
For better or for worse, Macau has become known to the world as a gambling Mecca, as Asia's Vegas, where fortunes are made and lost over a roulette wheel or game of black jack. The casinos have played a huge role in Macau for centuries, but to truly get to know the place, you have to get far away from the glittering lights, to the places like Coloane.
We couldn't find a taxi back to the Macau Peninsula, but before long a bus came by that was headed in our direction. It was a long ride criss-crossing nearly the entirety of Macau, but owing to our limited time, it was also pretty much a private tour of the place, until the last bit when the bus started to fill up with locals. We hopped off at the Macau Tower and began a long, slow wander around the UNESCO World Heritage sights of the old city.
Every time I walk these streets, I am so won over that I begin to dream aloud about one day living in Macau. Poor Heidi was treated to an earful that night. True, as long as I have a day job that needs me in an office in Central, it's a far-fetched idea. But assuming one day I'll have the freedom to work from home, or perhaps take some time off from work to simply relax and explore, Macau is high on my list of future places to call home.
After ticking off A Ma Temple, the Moorish Barracks, Lilau Square, a bevy of colonial churches, the famous ruins of Saint Paul's and the Fortaleza do Monte, it was time for a second helping of Sangria, this time in the courtyard of Albergue 1601, which—again—we had all to ourselves. We ordered a Portuguese cheese and meat platter, and watched as the animal-shaped lanterns danced in the moss-covered trees.
A Ma Temple by night
Of course, I couldn't let Heidi leave town without at least a quick shot at her luck at one of the thirty-plus casinos that have spread Macau's fame around the world. The Portuguese first legalized gambling in their colony way back in the 1850s, and in 2007, the tiny place even overtook Las Vegas in terms of gaming revenues. So I'm sure nobody will begrudge us a little fun at the slots at the Grand Lisboa.
The Grand Lisboa
True, we didn't walk away any richer than we'd sat down, but our initial investment kept us going for a little while. And it's hard to sail back to Hong Kong without at least a quick visit to the gaudy, ostentatious behemoths that juxtapose so garishly with the beautiful colonial heritage sites.
Tuesday—alas—was a work day for me. I had a late conference call with a client in New York, so I didn't have to be in the office until 1pm, but I would be stuck there until 10 that night. Since Heidi and I had the morning to recover from an exhausting three days, we grabbed a coffee at Happy Alley, a dog friendly Austrian coffee bar around the corner from my front door, And then we rode the ding ding to Central, where I set her on her way to see the Big Buddha on Lantau Island.
Tramming it to Central, before going our separate ways
When we reconnected for my "dinner hour" before the call, I was still so stuffed from a team lunch that I couldn't eat another mouthful. But we wandered around Sheung Wan for a bit, and when we walked down Cat Street, I recommended Heidi check out Man Mo Cafe, another restaurant vying for my top pick of Hong Kong dining establishments. When I came down to my office lobby after the call ended, I was delightfully surprised to be presented with leftover burgerbuns, one of Man Mo's signature dim sum dishes.
Ana works at a trendy bar called Shore, a few minutes' walk from my office. Now finally finished with work, Heidi and I popped in to pay her a visit—and to enjoy a drink or two on the expansive outdoor terrace. When Ana herself was finished with her shift, we hopped along to Wyndham Street, where we had a round of drinks in one of Hong Kong's premier gin bars, Origin, which has some very photogenic cocktails on offer, including the KGB, which is served in a porcelain bathtub complete with a rubber duck.
Wednesday, as you know, may be my favorite night in Hong Kong, thanks mostly to the Happy Valley horse races that are capped off by Ladies Night in neighboring Wan Chai. I've been pushing Heidi to visit me since pretty much day one, and every time, I've urged her to make sure she ensures she's in town for a Wednesday. So I'm so glad that after a long day at work—and Heidi's visit to the Hong Kong Museum of History—we were able to reunite in Happy Valley. My colleagues Mike and Carlo joined, in addition to Praw, who was in town from our Bangkok office.
Wednesday night at Happy Valley Racetrack
It was great to finish off Heidi's time in Hong Kong with a bang, before heading to the airport super early the next morning for to kick start our adventures in Cambodia!
I just got a check for $500.
ReplyDeleteSometimes people don't believe me when I tell them about how much you can earn by taking paid surveys online...
So I took a video of myself actually getting paid $500 for filling paid surveys.