I Left My Heart in Singapore

I’ve just had two of my best—albeit most expensive and sleepless—weekends back to back. Two weekends ago, August 6th–9th, Jamie, my friend from ‘Nova, came up to Hong Kong to stay with me and see the town. He had off on Monday because of Singapore’s National Day, so I had a bit more time than a usual to show him the amazingness that is Hong Kong. We crammed in a ton of activities over the three days he was here, including a trip to Macau.

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Just before he left on Monday afternoon, I happened to price tickets to Singapore for the following weekend, and happened to find stupidly cheap spots on one of the local budget airlines, Tiger Air. Since Jamie is at the tail end of his job rotation, I knew this would be my last chance to visit Singapore while he was still there, and I decided to go ahead and book the tickets. I am so glad that I did, because the weekend was phenomenal, even if it did take me until today to recover from the lack of sleep. (And to finally get around to writing this entry!)

Singapore had been described to me countless times, but no explanation can accurately portray the town. I was told it would be impossibly clean, lovely and family-oriented, and it was all of those things. But it also had a unique character and feel all its own that was completely unexpected. Hongkongers typically paint a picture of Singapore as ‘the place expats move when they get married, have a family and are ready to leave the frenetic pace of city life behind.’ But after having visited myself, I have to disagree. Singapore doesn’t lack any of Hong Kong’s energy or nightlife. It is just able to couple this joie de vivre with a serious dose of calm, collected peacefulness. Jamie kept saying that Singapore “does not even feel like a real city.” And I completely agree. Eventually we decided that Singapore is more of a real-life Disney World than bustling metropolis. Except you get caned if you break the rules!

The view of Clarke Quay from Jamie's window

I arrived in Singapore so late on Friday night that it was already significantly into Saturday by the time I got to Jamie’s apartment. We had coordinated via e-mail exactly how we were to meet up. As a joke, in one e-mail, I wrote that if all else failed, I would simply start shouting “Jamie—Jamie—Jamie” until we finally found each other. Little did I realize that my phone would run out of credit, and that is exactly what I would have to do!! Thankfully, somebody up there was on my side: Jamie heard me shouting and a serious crisis was averted. (Sidenote: If I gave an award to the friend I've met up with in most foreign countries, Jamie would win, as Singapore marks the fifth one!)

After dropping off my bag in his flat, Jamie took me to a part of town called Clarke Quay (pronounced “key”), which was right across the street. Clarke Quay is unlike any nightlife scene I have ever seen anywhere. It's an old collection of restored warehouses and factories that has been completely taken over by themed bars and restaurants: a Cuban themed bar, a microbrewery, a traditional British pub, and—most bizarrely—a hospital-themed restaurant called The Clinic that seats its diners in wheelchairs and serves beverages via drips!

Clarke Quay at night

Early on Saturday morning we hit Singapore. After a quick bite to eat at an outdoor complex of restaurants and shops (situated on the grounds of an old convent) called CHIJMES, we visited the National Museum. It traced the history of the island of Singapore from its legendary founding through the colonial era to its current status as an independent city-state of worldwide economic importance.

The National Museum of Singapore

The museum was awesome, and afterwards we headed to the famous Raffles Hotel for the obligatory Singapore Sling at the storied Long Bar with some of Jamie's friends. For S$25 (or over US$18!!!) we sipped an extremely sweet Sling under the quirky ceiling fans, snacked on peanuts and enjoyed the ambiance. Gone are the days when Somerset Maugham, Noël Coward and Ava Gardner lingered over drinks here—only tourists set foot inside now. And, I'm sorry to report, the drink wasn't really anything that special.

A window advertisement for the famous Singapore Sling

Although I will probably never pay for a Singapore Sling at the Long Bar again, I am very glad to have checked the item off of my Asian bucket list. But I keep kicking myself that I forgot to get a photo of the occasion. Oh well. Before I left, I did snap one shot of the famous bar itself.

The Long Bar

After the Slings, Jamie took me to the observation level (called the Skypark) atop the brand-new Marina Bay Sands, a hotel-casino-convention center just completed downtown. After our disastrous (but incredibly fun) visit to the casinos of Macau when Jamie visited Hong Kong, we steered clear of the roulette and blackjack tables, but the Skypark was simply stunning.

Close-up view of the Skypark

The Marina Bay Sands consists of three separate tall towers with the flat “park” balanced on top of them. Recently completed, it's definitely the most iconic and distinctive skycraper in the town, and it certainly is a unique-looking complex, as you can see in the photo below!

The Marina Bay Sands!

The views of the city and the sea from this vista show off Singapore in all its glory. A handy audio guide also helped identify various landmarks and parts of town. In addition to the observation level, the Skypark is also home to the world’s largest infinity pool, which was undoubtedly one of the most impressive swimming pools I have ever laid my eyes on.

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Currently my desktop background—the infinity pool atop the Skypark

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As day turned to night, we watched the lights of Singapore turn on from our high perch. Then, around 8 o’clock fireworks started booming! It was the opening ceremony of the first ever Youth Olympic Games. Standing on the Skypark, we were actually above the fireworks, which made for a unique view of the pyrotechnics. I will never forget it as long as I live.

Bird's eye view of the Youth Olympics Opening Ceremony

Fireworks over Singapore

Afterwards, we grabbed a quick dinner and headed out for another night on the town. I got to meet a bunch of Jamie’s friends, several of whom are actually currently in Hong Kong, so I’ve gotten to see them since my return. We started in Emerald Hill, but of course we finished our night in—where else?—Clarke Quay.

Sunday was another packed, wonderful day. It started early with tickets to watch the rowing event of the Youth Olympics. Although the U.S.A. did not compete in any heat we saw, it was still a good time. And if the Youth Olympics ever becomes big, I have the privilege of boasting that I was in attendance at the very first games. (Somehow I doubt the Youth Olympics will ever catch on though.)

Youth Olympians rowing past the Singapore Flyer

In the afternoon, we met up with my friend Melanie from Hong Kong, whose parents have just relocated to Singapore. Together, the three of us strolled along the Singapore River, from Clarke Quay down to the Merlion, the “mascot” of Singapore. Along the way we passed Boat Quay, the Fullerton Hotel (the old post office), the statue of Sir Stamford Raffles and other sights.

Me and Melanie in front of Fullerton's Hotel, on the Singapore River

For me, the highlight of the afternoon was a ride on Singapore Flyer, the tallest observation (Ferris) wheel in the world! The ride, which took almost 40 minutes, was awesome. Somehow, even though it is right next to the Marina Bay Sands, the Flyer was completely different and just as worthwhile as the Skypark. The capsules were huge, the 'flight' was smooth, and the views, obviously, were incredible. There was even an audio guide that explained the Feng shui of the city, including how the wheel's direction had to be reversed after several months in order to be more in harmony with its surroundings! Apparently by spinning counter-clockwise, wealth was flowing out of the Central Business District, but thankfully some Feng shui masters pointed this out, and now it has been corrected. Because of the clockwise spinning of the wheel, wealth now flows into the city. Much better for a financial capital, I'm sure you'll agree. 

We are self-timer masters!

On the Singapore Flyer

Since I booked Monday morning off from work, I opted to take an early morning flight home the next day—giving me a third night in Singapore. After a delicious al fresco mussel dinner on Robertson Quay, we headed to the unique Night Safari, a sort of nocturnal zoo about an hour’s bus ride from the center of town.

With some creepy Cat Woman-esque lady at the Night Safari

The Night Safari is possibly the coolest thing I’ve done in Asia, and I would put it at the top of any list of Singapore attractions. There were elephants, tigers, lions, bats, flying foxes, leopards, deer, fishing cats, porcupines and plenty of other animals, all going about their nocturnal business. The "safari" consisted of a guided tram ride around the park and optional stops to further explore the different areas up close. Perhaps the most memorable trail was the Bat Walk-Through, with free flying fruit bats. You could actually feel the breeze from their flapping wings as they got precariously close to the tourists! The fascinating animals enhanced by the magic of moonlight makes the Night Safari unmissable. Since flash photography is prohibited, though, hardly any photographs come out, but the vivid memories of the experience are surely better than any pictures ever could be.

When nobody was looking, I snapped one flash photo.

As I was getting ready to leave to go back to Hong Kong, Jamie’s friend from Villanova (confusingly also named Paul) arrived. He was spending a week in Singapore as Jamie finished his last days of work, and then the two were going to travel around Malaysia for another week or so before heading back to the States. We briefly walked around Clarke Quay yet again, and before I knew it, I had to get in a taxi to head back to the airport.

Though I managed to get that extra night squeezed in, I wish I had a lot more time to spend in Singapore. Bangkok and Kuala Lumpur were certainly more exotic, and I had great weekends in Chiang Mai and Manila as well, but the only place I’ve been in Asia (besides Hong Kong) where I can actually picture myself living for an extended period of time is Singapore. I fell in love hard with the town, and I absolutely cannot wait to go back. Who knows? Perhaps one day I will even live there. Before this weekend, I never imagined myself saying that.

Me and Jamie in front of the Singapore Flyer

Why Did I Wait Eight Months to Visit Bangkok?!?

Well, this past weekend was about as good as they come! As I wrote previously, I had a mini-vacation in Bangkok with my friend Jamie from Villanova. Only a two-and-a-half hour flight from Hong Kong, Bangkok feels worlds apart. Coupled with my first trip to Northern Thailand back in February, this past weekend convinced me that the country is one of the world's most spectacular ‘must-visit’ destinations.

We Americans like to think of Europe as the only place to go for culture and international travel, but in my book, Asia really wins in many regards. There is really so much to explore, and Bangkok is a perfect case in point. In addition to being an easy, cheap and accessible weekend destination for us Hong Kongers, Bangkok is one of the most popular locales in Asia, thanks to its grand sights, delicious food and wonderful atmosphere. So far, it is the most exotic place I have ever visited, literally unlike anywhere else I've been. Now sitting in my office again for another week at work, I am left questioning, "Why on Earth did I wait more than eight months to make the trip?" If I could do it all again, I would have first gone within weeks of arriving in Hong Kong, and I plan on making subsequent trips several times per year! There is so much to see, and the experience was wonderful.

Even if the trip had been arduous and expensive, it would have been completely worth it. Luckily it was neither—a breeze in terms of easiness and I spent about as much as I would have had I simply stayed in Hong Kong! I guess it’s the 32-to-1 exchange rate the US dollar enjoys against the Thai baht.

So… on Friday afternoon I left work a little bit early, at 4:30pm. Since I got my ticket at “In Town Check-In” earlier in the day, I simply took the Airport Express and proceeded straight to my gate. Thai Airways’s motto is ‘Smooth as Silk’ and I was very impressed with my flight. The food was good, and I sat next to a fascinating guy—a Belgian diamond salesman who now lives in Botswana and spends his time visiting diamond mines and factories around Europe, Africa and Asia.

Jamie and I had booked a guesthouse on the river as our accommodation, called the Arun Residence. And since I arrived about two hours before him, I headed to the guesthouse and sat out on the deck overlooking its namesake, Wat Arun (the Temple of Dawn), quenching my thirst with some Singha as I awaited his arrival.

Incredible view of Wat Arun (or the Temple of Dawn) from our guesthouse

Bangkok is known for many things, including its nightlife. Since we only had two nights there, we had to go out that first one, even though we had booked a tour to pick us up at our hotel the next morning at 7:30am. Out on the town, we met a lot of great locals who really took pride in showing off some of the charms of the city. But we did have to be up very early the next morning, which we were mindful of throughout the evening. "Mindful" meaning we were well aware of the fact, though it didn't really persuade us to cut our night short. 

Jamie and I got to try fried crickets from a local food stall our first night out in Bangkok.

Just before 8am the next morning, we were off to Kanchanaburi for the jam-packed kind of day that can only be had in Thailand. First off was a stop at the Kanchanaburi Military Cemetery, the final resting place of thousands of allied soldiers who died of starvation and disease while building the infamous “Death Railway” connecting Thailand and Burma during World War II.

The war cemetery

After a few moments at the poignant cemetery, we were whisked to the famous “Bridge on the River Kwai” itself, where we got to explore the bridge up close before crossing it via train during an hour-and-a-half long ride on the railway, past lush Thai landscapes, mountains, wats and farms.

Anyone who knows me knows that I am a huge movie fan, and The Bridge on the River Kwai is one of the most incredible films of all time. Starring two of my favorite actors, Alec Guinness and William Holden, the David Lean-directed classic won the Oscar for Best Picture in 1957. (Guinness also won the Best Actor award that year for his incredible performance, and Lean was named Best Director.) I highly recommend seeing it at some point, even if you don't plan on coming to Thailand. Having seen the film and known the history of the spot greatly enhanced the experience of visiting the actual site, even if the movie itself was filmed in Sri Lanka!

The actual Bridge on the River Kwai...
Errr, well the rebuilt one, since the original blows up in the film's famous finale!

The ride itself was extremely interesting. Our tour guide gave us lots of local color along the way, pointing out different crops and sights passing by. Our 300 baht tickets also included tea and cookies, though we preferred to bring our own Singha! At first, we were supposed to simply stop and explore the bridge before driving on to the next part of the tour, but luckily Jamie and I both insisted that we actually take the famous train itself. And, of course, we whistled the "Colonel Bogey" theme from the movie as we did so.

With a very austere-looking official on the train ride

After the ride, we had a quick lunch in a local Thai restaurant before one of the weekend’s most memorable adventures—the elephant encounter! Jamie and I (with a guide of course) mounted a domesticated Thai elephant who gave us the ride of our life, up and down hills and into the River Kwai! He sprayed water at us with his trunk (see the first picture at the top of this post) and then got us completely soaked when he entirely submerged himself in the river! I don’t think I will ever forget that ride.

Riding the elephant

Without warning, he completely submerged himself in the water during our ride!

As if that weren’t enough, next we went to the famous Tiger Temple where monks, tigers and international volunteers live peacefully side by side. We got loads of photos with the tigers, and got to explore the compound. I even chatted with a Norwegian volunteer living with the tigers for six months who really seems to be enjoying her experience, “even though there is a lot of meditation time,” as she told me.

With a baby cub at Tiger Temple

Jamie and me with another tiger

Back in Bangkok that night we strolled around the markets of Sukhumvit, one of the city’s most well-known tourist spots. Afterwards we found a phenomenal poolside lounge with huge, comfortable seats, where we intended to have a drink or two before heading out. But we got a little too content, and a little too comfortable, and both fell asleep until the manager woke us up to say they were closing!!

Sunday we had to cram in all of the Bangkok tourist spots we wanted to see, since we had spent all day on Saturday in Kanchanaburi. First up was Wat Po, right near our guest house. Wat Po’s most extraordinary feature is the spectacular Reclining Buddha. The statue is almost 150 feet long and about 50 feet high—truly a sight to behold. It took us about ten minutes to walk around the entire Buddha.

Wat Po

The huge reclining Buddha inside the temple

Next up was the Grand Palace, perhaps the most impressive royal residence I have ever visited in my life! Since shorts are not allowed at the Grand Palace, Jamie and I had to fork over 130 baht to purchase the most ridiculous pants to wear over our shorts. I will never understand the mindset of the dress code! It’s considered disrespectful to wear a pair of brown shorts around the Grand Palace, but somehow completely fine to walk around in bright blue and green fish-print pants that stick out like a sore thumb.

Note the pants

Long pants or no long pants, the complex was stunning, filled with wats, models, gardens, a museum and the official residences of King Rama IX. The fusion of Eastern and Western architecture and design made for a dazzling display of intricate craftsmanship. For me, this attraction ranks pretty much at the top of my list of favorite Asian sights so far.

After a three baht (nine cents!!!) ferry ride across the Chao Phraya River, we finally got to see the Wat Arun up close. The Arun Residence is directly opposite the Wat on the other side of the river, so we could see it from our room, from the restaurant, from the hallway windows and from the hotel bar. But until you climb the structure, it’s impossible to fully grasp the intricate decorative details that grace its façade. Imbedded in the cement are hundreds of thousands of tiny pieces of glass—old bowls and ceramics donated by the locals—that come together to form a sort of mosaic covering the temple. Every view of Wat Arun is spectacular, and nobody should miss this sight when in Bangkok.

Wat Arun up close, with the Grand Palace across the river

After a quick lunch at a local restaurant, it was time for Jamie to make his way to the airport. He headed off in his taxi, and I sat out on the deck at our guesthouse for another two hours, gazing across the river at Wat Arun, enjoying some Singha until my own flight home later that afternoon. It was a phenomenal weekend that I will never forget. Now I’m looking forward to Jamie’s visit to Hong Kong in a couple of weeks, and—if you couldn’t guess from this blog entry—I definitely cannot wait to go back to Bangkok!

Summertime in the South China Seas

Since my last entry, I have been very busy. In mid-June, two friends of mine from Villanova came out to Hong Kong. Though they were traveling with their father who was on business, I got to spend a lot of great time with them. Twin sisters Courtney and Christie were both nursing majors, and they graduated in 2009 with me. They were the first of my 'Nova pals to visit me in Hong Kong, so taking them around town was a chance to “show off” my new home to old friends.

Villanova alumni in Hong Kong!

They met a bunch of my HK buddies (including my roommates) and got to see my apartment and office. Additionally, I took them to some of my favorite parts of town. It was an absolute delight for the three days they were here, and I will always look back on their visit with awesome memories.

A quick stop at Balalaika, a Russian ice bar in Lan Kwai Fong, with some newly made friends

Funnily enough, the day after they left, walking down a street near my apartment, I passed a young woman who was a dead ringer for another one of my friends from Villanova. Luckily I decided to take a chance of making myself look foolish— incredulously crying out "Callie?"—and sure enough it was her! What are the chances that I would randomly pass a friend from the States on a side street in Hong Kong?!? As it turns out, Callie was here on business for a couple of days, and she will be back again in the early fall! Funny how things like that happen, isn’t it?

The weather has also improved dramatically since my last post. (That is, until this morning—but more on that later.) Although it was never actually cold in Hong Kong by East Coast standards, we still like to consider the months of January through May to be chilly, especially when compared to the summer. For the past three weeks, perfect sunshine has constantly shone down on us from above, and summer is in full swing. I’ve spent most of my free time outside, at al fresco restaurants, in parks and, of course, on any number of Hong Kong’s forty public beaches! All the years before I came here, I never realized that Southeast Asia has some of the world’s best beaches, but I found it out pretty quickly after I arrived.

There are perfectly nice beaches within a ten minute taxi or bus ride of my apartment, and then there are the less-accessible-but-absolutely-stunning beaches slightly further out. Although they can be difficult to get to, the upside to your effort is a pristine, nearly-deserted beach, several of which feature caves, natural pools and even waterfalls.

One of Hong Kong's many beaches—on Cheung Chau Island

One of the most popular Hong Kong weekend activities is to hire a junk (that’s local slang for any sort of boat) for a large group of friends. You sail around the island, have the opportunity to participate in water sports and can get the boat to take you to some of these hidden beaches. As in many parts of the world, summer is an especially wonderful time to be young and in Hong Kong.

I am still making new friends out here as the months go by, but I have gotten particularly close with my two roommates—both of whom have arrived at the end of their time in Hong Kong. Julian, who has been my roommate since the day I moved out of my first serviced apartment, is heading back to Germany over the weekend. Guillaume, my French roommate who I got especially close with since I got back from London, goes home to Paris tomorrow evening. Still, I know I have good friends in Europe next time I pass through. And, believe it or not, a Swiss guy named Alex (who I have not met yet) will move into Guillaume’s room tomorrow!

Work-wise, I passed my fourth licensing exam in less than one year yesterday afternoon. On July 30th it will be one full year since passing the Series 7 in New York, followed by the Series 24 in August, and now two Hong Kong licensing exams since my arrival. As with each previous exam, it feels great to be done! I’m told this time there will be no further future tests, but, understandably, I am not so sure I believe that.

I am also building up some of my first accounts, including one client who handed me a very nice trade a few weeks back. (In fact, that one single trade was larger than the entire collective history of my trades since I started work!) Hopefully, as accounts like these develop, I will start trading more and more frequently.

I think I wrote in my last entry of the imminent arrival of my mother, a New York City public schoolteacher bent on spending the summer in Southeast Asia. She has now been here for three weeks already, and the time has flown! It’s been a bit of a challenge at times balancing work and playing tour guide, but it’s really been a phenomenal few weeks. Exhausting to be sure, but well worth it, and full of great memories.

On my mom's first full day in Asia, I took her to dim sum at Lin Heung Tea House where she made a local friend!

A visit to Victoria Peak

 She has seen so much, and although she is still overwhelmed by the crowds and heat, I know she is enjoying getting to known Hong Kong. She can get around on her own now, and she is starting to understand the currency exchange rate. It’s actually been fun to see her slowly adjust.

Jumbo margaritas on the Top Deck

Holding on for dear life on a choppy sampan ride from Aberdeen

Still, I need a bit of a break!! That is why I deliberately made plans to leave my mother behind in Hong Kong and head to Bangkok for a weekend, to meet up with Jamie, a fellow VSB graduate from the Class of 2009. Jamie works for Deutsche Bank, and he is in the middle of his three month international rotation in Singapore. I am going to try to book a weekend down there before he leaves, and he has already set his plans up for a Hong Kong trip in August, but our first meeting in Asia will take place in Bangkok, where we will meet on Friday evening.

I met Jamie way back at the beginning of my time at ‘Nova. In fact, I recall sitting in the fourth floor lounge of St. Monica on our first rainy Saturday doing AlcoholEDU with him and other friends. Who would have ever guessed back then that a few years down the road, we’d be riding elephants through the River Kwai!?!

Since I have only passed through the Bangkok airport and never actually ventured outside, I am very much looking forward to getting to know another Asian capital, and, of course, it will be good to see my old friend.

But—as I hinted at earlier in this entry—summertime in Southeast Asia also brings with it typhoons. In addition to the seemingly unbearable humidity, endless stream of sunny days and leisurely junk cruises, there are also massive tropical storm systems that pop in and out of the region on a regular basis. Last Friday, for the first time since my arrival, the official “Typhoon Signal T-1” was hoisted for Typhoon Conson, which ravaged the Philippines but spared Hong Kong. "T-1" is the first warning signal, and it merely informs the public that a typhoon is centered within eight-hundred-or-so kilometers of the SAR.

The second signal is “T-3” and it has just been hoisted this afternoon for the first time since I got here! Severe Tropical Storm Chanthu is about four hundred kilometers south-southwest of us right now, and the wind and rain is expected to pick up! I am almost embarassingly excited about experiencing my first typhoon in Hong Kong.

After “T-3” comes the highly anticipated “T-8” warning signal, at which point the city literally shuts down. Like a snow day at Villanova, everything comes to a standstill. Even the financial markets will close, and we have the day off from work—an expat’s snow day! Hopefully Chanthu is flash in the pan and well past Hong Kong by Friday afternoon when I fly to Thailand. But I still can't help hoping it strengthens overnight and we awake to a "T-8" come the morning!

With the stunning backdrop of Hong Kong's skyline on a crystal clear summer's day

I Love Public Holidays!

Yesterday was the Tuen Ng Festival here in Hong Kong. The celebration, known for its famous Dragon Boat Races that take place all over the region, is one of a dozen or so public holidays that afford much-appreciated days off to the Hong Kong work force. Since a lot of people seem curious about the holidays out here, I think this is a good time to describe them.

Dragon Boat Races on Stanley Beach

Obviously the biggest holidays in the United States—namely Christmas, New Year’s Day, Good Friday and Easter Monday—are all observed here in Hong Kong as well. Unfortunately, we do not get the day off for Martin Luther King Day, Washington's Birthday, Memorial Day, Independence Day, Columbus Day or Thanksgiving. Those are all uniquely American celebrations. But we do have our own share of interesting, tradition-filled public holidays.

Several teams speeding neck and neck towards the finish line

First and foremost among these is Chinese New Year, which, depending on when it falls, can account for two or three days off. The entire week is full of parades, fireworks and celebrations. Chinese New Year usually takes place in January or February. Since I was on vacation in Thailand during the past Chinese New Year, I missed the bulk of the celebrations, but I hope to spend next year's here in Hong Kong.

One of the big Asian festivals is the Ching Ming Festival, which generally falls in early April. For the locals, this is a day to spend time with family members and pay visits to the graves of deceased relatives. This year we lucked out with timing, as Ching Ming fell on Easter Monday. We were off from work on Good Friday, Easter Monday and—in order to observe Ching Ming—Tuesday as well! Gotta love a nice five day weekend!

Buddha’s Birthday took place in late May this year. That day, I went to the Cheung Chau Bun Festival, which I described in my previous post. The celebrations on Cheung Chau always coincide with Buddha’s Birthday, although they are separate events in terms of their origins. Visits to temples and monastaries are a very popular way for locals to commemorate Buddha's Birthday.

As I mentioned, yesterday was the Tuen Ng Festival, and it’s marked by the popular Dragon Boat races held not only in Hong Kong but in many other parts of Asia as well.

The crowds gathered to watch the races on the beach

Since I've only been here for seven months, I have not yet experienced the rest of the public holidays.

The next one on the calendar, set for July 1st, is SAR Establishment Day. Hong Kong is an SAR (or Special Administrative Region) of China. It was formerly under British rule, and on July 1st, 1997, Great Britain officially handed Hong Kong back over to the Chinese after more than a century of governing the territory.

Since Hong Kong's economy was extremely developed and profitable, China did not wish to tamper with it. Deng Xioping created the "SAR" to famously allow "one country with two systems" to maintain Hong Kong's capitalist, free-market structure. This is why Hong Kong is sometimes abbreviated as the HKSAR or simply the SAR, even though neighboring Macau is also an SAR. 

Every 1st of July is observed as a holiday to commemorate the handover, and, ostensibly, to celebrate Hong Kong's relative autonomy from the Mainland. Since July 1st is very close date-wise to our own Independence Day, I hope it will be a good chance to barbeque and enjoy summer weather.

In September, we have the Mid-Autumn Festival. A few weeks later, on October 1st, there is National Day. Then, in mid-October, we have the Chung Yeung Festival—the holiday I wasn't told about when I worked "Asia hours" in the States just before moving here. It's always nice to have the day off, but it would have been nice to know about that one beforehand, as I arrived in the office bleary-eyed at 2am on a Monday morning only to find out I needn't have bothered!

I have to say, Hong Kong has a pretty nice working calendar. It’s fine by me to get the day off from work to go and watch the Dragon Boat Races on the beach! And even though it was cloudy, somehow I still managed to get a lot of color—the Southeast Asian sun is very strong.

A race in progress

Yesterday was a wonderful experience. I woke up early and headed to Stanley Main Beach, on the south side of Hong Kong Island. It was certainly packed with spectators, but there was a good view of the action from almost everywhere on the beach, and the crowd added to the atmosphere.

The DFS boat

Lots of corporate companies sponsor a boat for their employees, so there were Dragon Boats from Goldman Sachs, J.P. Morgan, RBS, DFS, Bloomberg and dozens of others. Even the University of Michigan Alumni had a team! Many teams took their costumes really seriously, dressing up as sailors, panda bears, Flintstone characters and—most memorably—Avatars! There was even a costume competition at the end of the day.

Costumes are a popular feature of the races, like these boaters in sailor outfits

A team dressed as Panda bears

A nod to American pop culture—the Flintstones

My personal favorite—the Avatars

There was a lot of pomp and ceremony, and a lot of fun as well. You could watch the races from the beach, from the docks, aboard the countless boats moored offshore (usually chartered by a company with a boat in the race), or from several beachfront houses with patios and decks (again, usually rented by one of the teams). After several hours on the beach itself, I went to a party on the roof deck of one such home. Delicious German food was served, and it was great to meet some of the competitors who had actually won their race. All in all, I could not have asked for a better first experience at the Tuen Ng Festival!