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Sunday, May 31, 2020

Silent Spring


As I listen to stories of people all over the world slowly coming out of lockdown, I remain so grateful to have spent the past string of months in Hong Kong, this glorious archipelago blessed with so much natural beauty, where the worst we’ve had to endure has been a few weeks of scaled down social gatherings and the short-term closure of venues like gyms, cinemas and beauty parlors.

Oh, don’t get me wrong. Life has been a little quiet since Chinese New Year, make no mistake. And the face mask is now a firmly-rooted daily necessity. What's more, there's no doubt the global implications of COVID-19 are going to be with us for a long time. Nobody will be able to escape that. But those of us who’ve weathered this storm in Hong Kong need to count our blessings. For unlike the residents of so many places, we’ve never lost the ability to dine in restaurants, we’ve always been able to go out of our apartments with complete freedom, and there’s never been any discussion of which industries are essential and which are expendable. For the most part, everything has managed to remain open for business except those few enterprises that pose such obvious risks that they were ordered to temporarily shutter.


And the good news is that, with only minimal disruption to everyday life, Hong Kong has remarkably escaped the worst of the pandemic, at least in terms of the disease itself. Considering our city’s interconnectedness with Wuhan—previously the source of multiple daily direct flights and even trains arrivals—the fact that our overall number of confirmed cases today sits at 1,084 is downright extraordinary. And our death count is four. Four.

Although I believe that any loss of life is a tragedy, comparing our figures to the number of infections and fatalities in other places in the world makes it pretty obvious that Hong Kong has emerged from this whole thing largely unscathed.

The biggest consequence for most of us has been the inability to venture further afield, as COVID-19 has made foreign travel problematic since mid-March. That’s when the Hong Kong government enacted a strict fourteen-day home quarantine for all international arrivals. So, while a limited number of flights are still running, anybody who opts to exit the SAR is slapped with a monitoring bracelet upon his return, restricted from leaving his apartment (or a hotel room, if you prefer) for a full fortnight! It’s removed pretty much all motivation to cross the border until this rule is relaxed.

Obviously, keeping the virus out is paramount, so I have no complaints about the government’s strict rules for returnees. But without travel to keep us occupied—so far, I’ve postponed six previously planned trips—and blessed with our continued freedom to move about the territory at will, many of us have taken to reminding ourselves just why we love this place so damn much.


Yes, May, a month usually blessed with warm weather, has proven a great opportunity to relish all the joys this city has to offer. The skies are often arrestingly beautiful and, although there has been some rain of late, it’s been quite a stellar month. There have been a few bittersweet notes, to be sure, but on the whole, I’m reminded of how lucky I am.


Many of my friends back home, particularly those in New York, have not been so lucky. And some have resorted to clever ways to entertain themselves in the midst of this crisis. Heidi has even invited me to participate in two virtual pub quizzes, organized by friends who work for the United Nations!

They’re kind of fun, believe it or not. Everybody gathers on Zoom, and the quizmaster reads out the questions of any given round. And then you and your teammates are either sent into “break rooms” where you can discuss your thoughts on the best answers, or you just converse in a Whatsapp group chat. Sure, it’s not a permanent replacement for gathering in a bar. But it’s certainly better than nothing!

Here in Hong Kong, May arrives each year in the form of a public holiday marking Labour Day. This year, it also happened to be a Friday, meaning a long weekend. And, in an even greater quirk of timing, Buddha’s Birthday fell just one day earlier, the thirtieth of April, a Thursday. That means we got a four-day weekend to celebrate.

I had planned to spend Buddha’s Birthday with my friends Myles and Chun on Lantau for a hike, but traffic was so bad that they got stuck for hours waiting for a bus. I wound up alone atop Ngong Ping 360, which was supposed to serve as our communal meeting spot before heading off. But it was undeniably cool to mark the holiday in the shadow on the iconic Buddha statue and wish the big guy many happy returns.


Instead of hiking, I spent some time wandering about, since I’m pretty sure I haven’t been up here since Jen and Shea came to visit almost five years ago. Atmospheric Po Lin Monastery, with its spiritual, mystical air; touristy Ngong Ping Village, its polar opposite; and the massive statue itself, surveying this ironic juxtaposition. All in all, I lingered for over an hour, just soaking everything in.


And, in a random coincidence, I bumped into my friend Tanya just as I was about to scale the steep staircase that leads to the statue itself! It was so nice to be able to catch up with her, as we both concurred that we were exceptionally lucky to have been spared full-on lockdowns and other coronavirus-related measures that have been implemented in less lucky locales.


It was a public holiday, of course, and with all those trips now cast aside, I’ve continued using the funds originally earmarked for vacations to indulge in little splurges from time to time. And so, instead of taking the bus back down, I opted for the glorious cable car and even went so far as booking a crystal cabin, the special glass-floored gondolas that offer a stunning ride from the Buddha down to Tung Chung far below.


I actually did have a little important work to attend to, so I wound up alone in my office for a few hours in the afternoon. But before long, Myles and Chun arrived, and we headed over to ifc roof for a Shake Shack burger. In the end, it wasn’t at all how I thought I’d be spending the day, but it turned out pretty perfectly.


On the first of May, that next day, I actually laid low. A far cry from how I normally mark a public holiday, I know, but as this was the second in a row, and the previous day had been such a wild success, I opted to stay close to home, lounging around with Fredric.

But it was also, as I mentioned earlier, a Friday, and I realized as lunchtime drew near that I hadn’t tried a new restaurant yet that week. You see, I have a self-enforced rule that at least once between Monday and Friday, I must experiment with a new lunch venue. I don’t know why I have to resort to imposing strict regulations on myself, but I do…

It has to be lunch, and it has to be during the work week. (Of course, I’m always free to try a new place for dinner, or over the weekend, too. But the rule applies only to weekday lunches. In case you’re wondering, if I wind up trying two new venues one week, it doesn’t get me out of the requirement for the next. I still have to find a new restaurant.) And so, there I was, my last chance to be in compliance for the week.

I searched Google for dog-friendly restaurants, as I wanted my canine companion to join me, and we wound up at Little Bao, a very popular eatery I’ve been meaning to try for years. Previously in SoHo, the Chinese-fusion hotspot is now located in Causeway Bay overlooking Victoria Park, meaning it’s an easy walk from my flat.

Honestly, most of the new restaurants I try out don’t wow me. Of the twenty or so venues I’ve given a whirl so far this year, there’re only a few I’ll definitely return to. But Little Bao is surely among them. In fact, I’ve already been back twice—including earlier today, meaning my last lunch of the month was at the same place where I had the first—in addition to having placed two Deliveroo delivery orders! That’s a total of five meals in as many weeks, so I guess it’s safe to assume I like the place.


Anyway, having missed out on my hike on Thursday, I made up for it on Saturday. I hike a fair amount when the weather permits, and with the approach of summer, it seemed a good idea to squeeze a few in before the heat and humidity really arrive in full force in June. So when my friends Matt and Ana organized a jaunt up to Sunset Peak, I quickly hopped on. Often cited by nature enthusiasts as one of Hong Kong’s most beautiful trails, Sunset Peak is a spot I’ve known about it for years. In fact, probably a decade. So it was a bit shocking to realize I’d never done it before.

The views along the way were pretty astounding, I must say. Rugged Lantau really looks good on a bright morning, even if a few clouds did obscure the actual summit. And I’m proud to report that it wasn’t too much of a struggle, from a physical perspective. All in all, I really enjoyed it.


Of course, after such strenuous activity, a beer on the beach tastes very good indeed. And down on Pui O, we had more than our fair share that afternoon, under splendidly sunny skies.


And then it was back to Mui Wo, for a fresh seafood feast. As we ordered, I snuck away from the table for a few moments.

You may recall that last month, on Easter Monday, I stumbled upon a small wine shop in Mui Wo, where I picked up a bottle of Amontillado. Well, as that bottle—which I thoroughly enjoyed—was now long finished, and since I was back in the village, it seemed like a foregone conclusion that I might as well stop by and pick up another.


The friendly shop owner steered me towards a Palo Cortado, another variety of sherry, which also seriously impressed me. And, perhaps inevitably, a few days later, I wound up on the Wikipedia page learning more about this popular wine. Part of the article mentions that a specific breed of dog, the Ratonero Bodeguero Andaluz, is particularly associated with sherry, having been bred over centuries to aid vintners by hunting vermin between wine barrels in the cellars. There’s even a little Ratonero on the label of the bottles of the particular brand this shop stocks. And who knows? Maybe a future trip to Andalusia—we have that office in Malaga, you may remember—will see me adopting a little brother for Fredric. I even have his name all picked out: Monte, short for Amontillado.

Back at the table, in a stroke of impeccable timing, the first of the dishes had arrived, crunchy fried squid and clams in black bean sauce. And before long, the waitress was placing our heavenly steamed whole pomfret down. Not having eaten yet that day, I was absolutely starving by this point. And our whole group really went to town on pretty much everything that was spread out before us. It was a fantastic meal.


One of the little bonuses of any ferry journey to or from Central is a stop at Beer Bay, a casual bar set up between the Discover Bay and Lamma Island piers. It’s really only a takeaway stand, but they have such a great selection on offer, and so many people wind up chilling out in the vicinity after selecting their brews, that it makes for as wonderful an atmosphere as a waterfront watering hole could ask for. Someone inevitably whips out a guitar, or stars singing, and the whole place takes on a very special ambiance. So, that night, it was only fitting that we continued the party there upon our arrival on dry land.

Believe it or not, the very next day, I was back to Lantau, my third trip over in four days. It was another gorgeous morning, clear skies, a few clouds and strong sun. And as our boat pulled out of Central, you could just tell it was going to be a sensational day.


I don’t know why, but the route between Central and Mui Wo almost always seems to host a flock of flying fish. It’s the only place I know in Hong Kong where you can count on seeing scads of scaly swimmers jumping out of the water in the wake of your boat as you cruise along. They make an appearance pretty much every time!

It’s always a breathtaking experience to spot the first of the school, quickly followed by his little classmates, all jumping out of the water like corn kernels popping on a hot skillet.


The catalyst for that day’s trip was a picnic on Cheung Sha Beach, organized by our friends Lisa and Agust. And even Fredric came along for the fun. We selected a grassy spot at a stretch called Welcome Beach, popular with landing paragliders. And what with the delectable home-cooked specialties provided by Lisa, and a constant flow of cold beers from a nearby shop, it was a great day indeed.


Beer Bay was closed by the time we pulled back into the pier in Central, as it was fairly late on a Sunday evening. But a nearby Circle K supplied us with a few cans, so we could properly cap off our madcap Lantau weekend and toast to the good memories.


Yes, April had segued into May seamlessly and memorably! It was to be a month full of tasty food, memorable outdoor time in some of Hong Kong’s most sensational settings, and lots of movies.

So let’s start with the food, shall we?

Of course, the month just isn’t complete without celebrating Cinco de Mayo. It’s probably the only day of the year when I have Mexican for both lunch and dinner, never fail. And this year, I continued the tradition.

In fact, I had lunch near my flat, at a brand-new Cali-Mex that’s opened in Happy Valley, replacing O’Bird, the fabulous French rotisserie I used to frequent. Still, a free margarita eases the transition, alright. And the friendly staff are always a pleasure to chat with.


I probably don’t have to tell you this, but I booked a spot at Agave for dinner. It just wouldn’t be Cinco de Mayo in Hong Kong without a stop here. With that blasted four person per table restriction still in place, our Tuesday night dinner was a far cry from last year’s black out Sunday brunch for twelve. But it was still a great night with my friends Max, Celine and Danijela, as we sipped margaritas and micheladas and chowed down on seriously amazing South of the Border specialties, including my favorite molcajetes with fiery habanero prawns.


One memorable Monday I headed to ifc after work to make use of a hundred-dollar coupon that was about to expire. I headed straight up to Crystal Jade, where I indulged in a hearty feast for one. Xiao long bao, spicy chili wantons, dan dan noodles and a shredded Shandong pancake… Of course, it was too much food and I wound up taking most of the dan dan to go. But there’s a reason I often cite this place as my favorite restaurant in town. And that dinner was proof positive.


There was even one final trek over to Lantau before the month was out, last Sunday. Initially, I had just headed over myself, content to spend my day in solitude. I had a hankering for Turkish food, and my favorite Turkish restaurant happens to be in Mui Wo. I also wanted to re-stock my sherry. But it wound up being a much fuller day than I could have anticipated.

As I was feasting on stuffed grape leaves and cigarette borek, I got a message from Matt saying that he and Ana were also in Mui Wo. Of course, after finishing my lunch, I headed over the fresh seafood restaurant where they were eating. When I arrived, I was surprised to see Lisa and Agust with them, too. I’m sure you’ve guessed that they were complementing their meal with a few ice-cold bottles of Tsing Tao.


“Have a glass?” Ana asked in a way that was more of a command than a question, especially as she was already pouring it for me before I’d had a chance to say yes. Not that I’d have refused it, anyway.

Coincidentally, that day just happened to be Hari Raya, the Indonesia name for Eid, a holiday celebrated by Muslims the world over to mark the end of Ramadan. And in a stroke of good fortune, Ana and Lisa, both Indonesians themselves, had friends who lived along the beach, who invited us all over for a party, the highlight of which was a sensational home-cooked buffet of scrumptious specialties.


As we walked back towards the ferry at the day’s end, there were about fifteen buffalo just lounging on the beach. It’s almost surreal to think that you’re only a short boat ride from one of the world’s busiest metropolises, yet here you have wild animals freely roaming in a quaint seaside village.


I’ll always be grateful for little Mui Wo, so easily accessible, yet worlds removed from the hustle of Hong Kong. I guess I don’t have to tell you that I bought another bottle of sherry from the little shop—this time a Manzanilla Pasada en Rama—before hopping back on the ferry home.

One of the veritable highlights of the month was a Saturday excursion to another of Hong Kong’s plentiful outlying islands, remote Tung Ping Chau, where I ventured with Danijela.


I think I mentioned in my last post that Danijela is moving to Germany soon, having accepted a new job offer. As such, she’s trying her best to check all the items off her Hong Kong to do list. Well, when she asked if I wanted to tag along to the most far flung of our outlying islands, I jumped at the chance. I’ve been meaning to go myself for some time now, but it’s just so far from everything, with such sporadic ferry connections, that I just never got around to it. Until now!


If Mui Wo is a quick and easy destination, with its hourly boats every day of the week, tiny Tung Ping Chau is the opposite! We took an early morning Uber from Causeway Bay to the pier in University, out past Sha Tin in the New Territories. And then we took a weekend-only ninety-minute boat ride that finally let us off on the tiny, flat outcrop of an island, famous for its stunning rock formations.


From the abandoned settlements near the dock, to the wooded trail that encircles the island, to a glorious, long beach where we lounged the afternoon away, to a pretty phenomenal little al fresco restaurant where we indulged in some fried squid and curry fish balls, the island really won me over.


I can assure you, there’s no way I’m waiting long before my second visit, as it really was a special place that captures so much of what makes Hong Kong so incredible.

In addition to all the calories and outdoor time in my city I’ve just told you about, I’ve also spent a fair amount of my free hours staring at screens. And I’m not talking about the computer at work.


Two weeks ago Friday, I got the itch to watch Way Down East. Does that ever happen to you? Somehow, the idea of a movie gets into your mind, and you just have to watch it that night. Whether you hear a song that conjures up a memory, or a still from the film is posted somewhere online, or somebody drops a quote during everyday conversations…

So I don’t know why, but there I was, sitting at my desk at the office, unable to think of little else except Lillian Gish drifting down the White River on an ice floe. So I decided I had to go home and pop on the DVD that night.

And it put a little idea in my head to self-curate a mini-festival called Silent Spring. My goal was to watch silent movies—and only silent movies—for the next two weeks. And I’m proud to say I made it to twenty! (Yes, I had Hearts and Flowers stuck in my head for days.)


I ensured all the big stars were included. Lillian Gish, of course. Swashbuckling Douglas Fairbanks and Mary Pickford, America’s Sweetheart. Buster Keaton, Charlie Chaplin and Harold Lloyd, the great silent clowns. Theda Bara, the original Vamp. Lon Chaney, the Man of a Thousand Faces. Corinne Griffith, the Orchid Lady of the Screen. And legends like Marion Davies, Rudolph Valentino, Greta Garbo, Gloria Swanson, John Gilbert, Norma Shearer and Joan Crawford.

During the silent days, especially the late silent days just before the movies learned to talk, Hollywood hit supreme visual and artistic heights the likes of which were never again equaled after the arrival of sound. With sparkling dialogue to distract us, audiences just don’t require such arresting images to hold our attention for a couple of hours in the dark. But, luckily, we’ll always have those great examples from the late twenties.


In addition to Way Down East, I watched (in order) Broken Blossoms, The Sheik, Son of the Sheik, La Bohème, The Garden of Eden, The Thief of Bagdad, He Who Gets Slapped, Peter Pan, The Mysterious Lady, Sherlock Jr., The Circus, Speedy, A Fool There Was, Wings, Sadie Thompson, My Best Girl, Sunrise, Show People and Our Dancing Daughters.

A few of these are bona fide favorites of mine, classics I’ve screened dozens of times. But I made an effort to squeeze in quite a few new ones, mostly movies I’ve wanted to catch for years yet somehow never got around to. Some had even been in my DVD folder for over a decade, never having been watched. (Such was the fervor with which I purchased DVDs with my parents’ credit cards during my youth!)

Among the list you can spot the first Oscar-winning Best Picture, Wings, an epic World War I drama I dragged my mother and sister into Manhattan to see at Film Forum when I was in high school. I’ve loved it ever since.


Incidentally, that first year when Wings won the Oscar, the Academy handed out two statuettes that—at the time—were deemed to be the co-equal top honors of the evening. F.W. Murnau’s masterful Sunrise, also a part of my Silent Spring selection, won an award for Best Unique and Artistic Picture, while Wings took one home for what was then called Outstanding Picture. It was only the following year, with the former category now discontinued, that the Academy retroactively decided that the award won by Wings was to henceforth be their highest honor.

Sunrise, for what it’s worth, is an even better film. With its haunting use of double exposure and  liberal onslaught of breathtaking tracking shots, it holds up remarkably well for its ninety-plus years. (I also saw it for the first time back in high school. Twentieth Century Fox released a new line of DVDs called Studio Classics. A limited-edition disc of Sunrise was sent to customers who bought three of these titles and mailed in the proofs of purchase. I still remember the day the postman delivered my copy.)


But I’d never seen either of Valentino’s Sheiks nor Garbo’s Mysterious Lady nor Chaney, Shearer and Gilbert in the first M-G-M production He Who Gets Slapped. It was a pleasure to discover them, and several of the others, and I’m already thinking I’ll need a summertime installment of my festival. Maybe Son of Silent Spring is a catchier title than uninspired Silent Summer?

I broke my fast and returned to talking pictures with 1988's Cinema Paradiso on Friday night at Movie Movie, formerly the AMC in Pacific Place. Yes, the government relaxed its restriction, allowing cinemas to re-open with added precautions. But I guess with a dearth of new flicks being released thanks to COVID, the theaters have taken to digging out the old reels gathering dust in their closets. Anyway, it’s a movie I’d long heard was an Italian masterpiece, and I jumped at the chance to buy a ticket when I spotted it on the calendar.


Danijela decided to come along, too, and although we couldn’t get seats together, we celebrated with Aperol Spritzes (the most Italian thing we could think of) before the screening. It was, put simply, an incredible motion picture, with perhaps the best ending I’ve ever seen, a manic frenzy of kisses taken from all manner of classic black and white dramas, a montage that doubles as a love letter to cinema itself. I’ve watched it on YouTube countless times these past couple of days, and I just can’t get Ennio Morricone’s amazing score out of my head. It finally replaced Hearts and Flowers, mercifully!


Post-screening, Danijela and I walked to Wan Chai, where we linked up with our friends Myles, Chun, Omar and Sarah for drinks at a great cocktail bar called WTF, which stands for, contrary to what you might first think, Worth the Fuss, indicating the amount of love and effort that goes into crafting each cocktail on their lengthy list. I’ve whizzed past the place pretty much every day on the tram to work, but shockingly never ventured inside. Let’s just say, I’ll be back soon. It’s one of the best cocktail bars I’ve yet found here.


But apart from such high highs, this month has had its share of bittersweet occasions, too.

With today drawing the month of May to a close, it’s with a heavy heart that Hong Kong says a communal so long to Jimmy’s Kitchen, the 1928-opened mainstay of the city’s culinary fabric. Referred to as a local institution, it’s been lionized in the press these past few weeks, and, of course, I relished one last visit, with my friends Hana and Julien a few Sundays ago. There’s talk that, if they can find the right location, they just may re-open in the future. But in case this really is the end, I’m glad my last feast was one to remember.


I indulged in prime rib with gravy and Yorkshire pudding, complete with a smoked bloody Mary and great service. The three of us even split an order of French toast as a dessert. I took a long, wistful look over my shoulder as we walked out.


However, the most heartbreaking day of the month for me was the nineteenth, my sister’s birthday, and her thirtieth, to boot. I had always intended to fly home to mark the milestone. I mean, how could I not? She came all the way to Hong Kong back in 2016 to wish me a happy thirtieth in person, and it seemed inconceivable not to return the favor.

Alas, COVID made it pretty much impossible.


But my good friend Kitty is a very talented illustrator, and I called her about two weeks in advance of the big day to see if she might be able to dream up a little imaginary birthday shot my sister and I could share together. She immediately agreed, and I sent her a few photos of Danii to give her some inspiration.

I was absolutely astounded by the incredible drawing she presented me with. My only problem was that I still had a week to go, and I was so anxious to share it, that at several points I thought my excitement would get the better of me, and I’d jump the gun. In the end, I held out long enough to surprise my sister with it on her birthday, and it was so nice to feel like I’d contributed in some small way to her happiness on such an important occasion.


My dad and sister, the lucky devils, are actually down in Chincoteague, Virginia, celebrating a week late, but better than not at all. Knowing the amazing food, especially the oysters, they must be eating, I steered a work lunch this past Thursday to Fish Bar, so I could indulge myself. Seated by the pool at the JW Marriott with a dozen Irish and French bivalves, it was as close as I could get to joining them.


Of course, when I called Kitty to talk about a potential portrait, she mentioned that it had been awhile since we last hung out. “I’m actually going kayaking this weekend in Sai Kung, if you’d like to join,” she said. It was an invitation I readily accepted.

I’d never been kayaking before. But it was certainly a blast. I think it was a bit of an ambitious route to thrust upon a first timer like myself, but it turned out to be a very fun day. 


I especially liked our sojourn on Grass Island, a tiny fishing village famous for sea urchin fried rice and a particularly cluttered, rocky beach that made for great combing. Not only was it great to give my poor arms a break from all the rowing, but the food was utterly delicious and the shells and sea glass I brought home with me look great displayed atop my living room cabinet.

Of course, it’s spring here, so that means we’ve been subjected to some impressive precipitation. There have been thundery nights where I’ve watched the rain splatter on the window pains of my glass cube of a bedroom. And early mornings where I’ve gotten stuck at my local coffee shop, Happy Alley, unable to leave in spite of my large umbrella, because the rain was pouring down so hard.


Even yesterday wound up being a typically glorious, lazy, boozy rain fest. My friend Christina is a realtor and she was showing an apartment in Happy Valley. If she hadn’t texted me to see if I wanted to meet up for lunch afterwards, I probably wouldn’t have found the motivation to leave my flat.

But she did. And I was thirsty. So I convinced her to swap out the lunch for a round of drinks, and down we went to the Jockey for a few pints. When we overheard the patrons at the next table mention they were about to begin a game of Cards Against Humanity, we invited ourselves to join. And twelve pints later, we hopped a taxi to Kennedy Town, to continue the party on the waterfront at a local brewery-cum-restaurant called Little Creatures.


Realizing we were just downstairs from Max and Celine’s pad, I sent across a quick message, asking if they were free to come say hello. They were, and they brought little Zoey with them, their adorable almost one-year old daughter. The Saturday evening crowd was out in full force, a din of laughter carried by the salty sea breeze. There was even a random couple making out. Yes, apart from the still-present masks, it felt as though life had pretty much gone back to normal for all intents and purposes.


The day had been a full one. Random encounters with new friends, spontaneous messaging to and from old ones, leading to unexpected meet-ups and an all-day drinking session. It’s the Hong Kong we all know and love again.

And what more fitting ending could such a day have than a screening of Grand Hotel in my living room. I’d wanted to watch it for days but had held off, owing to my utter commitment to Silent Spring. Now, at long last, it was time to indulge, especially after a glorious close-up of Garbo about to embrace John Barrymore had featured the night before in the finale of Cinema Paradiso.

All in all, it was a great evening… A great afternoon… A great day. Well, I guess, in the end, it was simply an all-around great month.

Wednesday, April 29, 2020

Fever Pitch


The weather is absolutely gorgeous in Hong Kong these days. And, since I’m mostly working from home due to the coronavirus, I’ve fallen into the habit of opening all the windows in the flat, letting the balmy April breeze flow through the rooms. (In case you’re wondering, yes, Fredric still likes to sleep behind me as I work.)


Inevitably, as I’m writing an e-mail, updating an Excel file or making a phone call, you hear it come over the loudspeakers… “May I have your attention please. Please don’t gather." And then, a moment later. “No ball games. Thank you for your cooperation.”


You see, my apartment’s proximity to Happy Valley Racecourse means I am very close to what is normally an extremely popular gathering spot, as people take advantage of the large open space for communal walks, football games or exercise classes. Since all those activities are now banned, the government has taken to recording announcements discouraging people from participating in such romps.

For the past four weeks or so, public interaction in Hong Kong has been limited for four people maximum. That means restaurants can still serve you, but party sizes are strictly reduced. What’s more, tables have to be placed at least five feet apart from each other, minimizing the risk of virus transmission, which most restaurants have accomplished by placing signs on alternating tables, indicating which ones are temporarily unavailable due to the restriction.


All in all, though, it’s really not bad here. In fact, I’ve even started feeling a bit guilty for living a fairly normal life, hearing from friends and family back home about the torture of quarantine and self-isolation, which we’ve mercifully managed to avoid from the beginning. True, gyms, beauty salons, mahjong parlors, karaoke rooms, cinemas and bona fide bars—by that I literally mean establishments exclusively purveying alcoholic beverages, without a restaurant license to serve food—have been temporarily shuttered.

But, to honest, there aren't too many of these venues on my radar. Almost all of my favorite watering holes offer at least some food, and, therefore, have managed to stay open. It goes without saying that I'm not a gym member, nor do I frequent beauty salons or mahjong parlors. And my visits to karaoke rooms are so isolated that I have yet to miss them. So it's really only the cinemas being forced to close that has hit home for me. Still, it’s not put too much of a damper on things, mostly because the weather this time of year is so glorious that it's always slightly depressing to spend time indoors anyway. So I haven't been!


Technically, my workplace hasn’t even formally closed. The company has given us the flexibility to work from home, if we prefer, and the real reason I’ve fallen into the habit is to avoid public transport, which seems much riskier to me than sitting in our sparsely-populated office.

We recently moved from the twenty-second to the tenth floor in the same building, and our new digs, although undeniably smaller, are an exceptional improvement in terms of utilization of space. It also feels so much brighter!

The reason for the change in illumination actually has nothing to do with the move itself, but just that the timing of our relocation happened to nearly coincide with the removal of some scaffolds that have enfolded the entire building for upwards of a year! It’s an absolute delight now to be able to look to my left and clearly see both IFC 1 and IFC 2, while a simply rotation of one hundred and eighty degrees gives me a tunnel view straight across Victoria Harbour to the ICC.


This month should have seen the annual return of our beloved Rugby Sevens, but it’s been pushed back until October. And the Hong Kong International Film Festival, meant to have opened on 24 March and closed on 6 April, has also been postponed, until the summer, they say. But, for all intents and purposes, life has basically returned to normal.

Well, normal, that is, in all but one respect. As of today, it has been ninety-eight days since my last horse race. The evening before I jetted across to Cambodia for Chinese New Year, I went to the track with my friends Max and Celine. There were lion dances and lots of revelry, a perfect Wednesday night. But little did I know that by the time I returned to Hong Kong, the Jockey Club would strictly limit entry to horse owners and their guests only, due to the ongoing pandemic.


Yes, this is by far the longest stretch in the past ten years between races for me. Normally I rarely go more than a week, attending the Wednesday meeting in a perpetual manner. When a Shatin Sunday creeps onto my calendar, it’s only a matter of days between visits. Yes, everything does shut down for about six weeks between seasons, normally from mid-July to early September. But, with my never fail attendance at both the season closer and the next season’s opener, even that gap is normally around forty days.

I miss the races immensely, and you can bet—pun intended—that the very first meeting when the grandstand re-opens to punters, I’ll be among that day’s earliest arrivals. Let’s hope it’s relatively soon.

Actually, it may be. For the past four days, Hong Kong has recorded zero new cases of COVID-19. Six days out of the last ten, as a matter of fact. And on those other recent occasions when we have added to our tally, the increase has been in the single-digits. While it’s important—essential, actually—not to let our guard down, it really does feel like we can see that proverbial light at the end of the tunnel. (Of course, I’m reminded of the saying that sometimes the light at the end of the tunnel is an oncoming train.)

So, without Thoroughbred racing to fill my spare hours, I’ve been spending a lot of time in the great outdoors, soaking up the glories of Hong Kong’s all-too-brief spring, after which the humidity really emerges in full force, to linger for many months.


Even last night, after 6pm rolled around, I hopped in a taxi with Fredric and cruised up to the Peak. It had just been such a spectacular day that I wanted to do the circular walk around Lugard and Harlech Roads. And I wasn’t wrong: the view was absolutely stunning, as usual.


With the sun setting, and the harbor and hills beyond, plus the sprawling city spread out map-like below, it was a wonderful jaunt. We are so damn lucky in a place like Hong Kong, where nature is literally right here on our doorstep and a ten dollar taxi ride gives you immediate (and easy) access to it.


Afterwards, the pooch and I plopped down at an outdoor table at Rajasthan Riffles, a new-ish Indian restaurant from Black Sheep Group, that serves inventive cuisine in the most charming of settings. I am in love with their keema anda pau, spicy mutton served with toasted milk buns. And although it was a little breezy on their outdoor patio, a nice masala chai helped to combat the wind.


We walked down afterwards. In fact, after emerging in Central, we almost walked all the way home to Happy Valley before I finally caved and hailed a cab as we neared Ruttonjee Hospital in Wan Chai. But it's just such a nice stroll, first down the steep, curvy path that links the Peak to the city below, then through the Mid-Levels, emerging near the Botanic Gardens, next passing Government House and other historic buildings near Lower Albert Road, and finally arriving down on bustling Queen's Road. 


Last night’s pop up was only ten days after my previous visit to the Peak, two Sundays ago. My friend Gabby wanted to do a hike, and I agreed to join. In a stroke of genius, I convinced her to come up for a quick beer before we headed off. And, as I’m sure you can guess, this turned into hours of rooftop music and suds before we finally made it out.

I managed to turn the “hike” into “walking along Bowen Road.” I don’t make it up to Bowen as often as I should, which is really a pity. It’s a long flat paved road very popular with runners, joggers, walkers and their dogs. And the views out over the city are lovely. So we walked its entire length that afternoon.


Since the western extremity of Bowen Road is an easy spot to catch a taxi to the summit of the Peak, we hailed a cab and went up. And my friend Danijela met us at Rajasthan Riffles, for my introductory visit to the restaurant.


It was actually Orthodox Easter that day, and Danijela, being Serbian, was delighted to be able to celebrate the holiday with friends. After our meal, we took the circular walk, and at a most spectacular viewpoint, Danijela reached into her bag and pulled out three red-dyed eggs, a Serbian tradition she now shared with Gab and me.


Of course, I celebrated Easter the week before, on 12 April. And I think it was the first time in memory when I haven’t actually attended church on the most important holy day of the year. Yes, since public gatherings are limited to four, churches are not allowed to hold services in the usual manner and have taken instead to live streaming them.


Even a week earlier, on Palm Sunday, the rules were already in place so public attendance was not allowed. Still, I made it a point to stop by St. John’s the following day to pick up a palm cross. You see, even though there are no communal masses, churches can remain open for private prayer outside of service times, with temperature checks before you enter and a cap on the total number of worshippers allowed inside at once. It was a good opportunity for prayer and reflection as Holy Week began. 


When my Easter vacation to Moulmein, Burma, was effectively cancelled due to the virus, I made up my mind I was turning my free days in Hong Kong into a veritable stay-cation. I figured I’d take some of the money earmarked for that little break and instead put it towards good booze and food, to augment my holiday here. Think rich golden Sauternes and luscious vintage Ports and frequent calls at ritzy restaurants.

My local bottle shop, Ponti, just around the corner, is even running a special on Italian wines for the whole month of April. So when I stopped by on the first of the month, initially to pick up some sweeter varietals, I also snapped up a magnum of Chianti. To celebrate, once home, I pulled out my DVD of an old Fellini flick called Nights of Cabiria, a favorite Italian drama with a brilliant performance from Giulietta Masina, Fellini’s wife, while sipping away.


In fact, these past weeks, I’ve just been spending money on silly whims much more than usual, my philosophy being that desperate times call for dropping dough to remind you that life is still wonderful. Case in point: there’s a pet shop in Happy Valley called the Bark Department that Fredric absolutely loves. It’s pretty clever on their part, really. But they offer dogs free treats whenever they come into the store. Of course, that means that every time we walk by, Fredric does his best to drag me through the doors, which, inevitably, leads to me buying something.

Well, lo, and behold, earlier this month, we were in there, and I saw the cutest plush toy made to look like a Bloody Mary. I just couldn’t resist it, and I’m happy to report that Fredric absolutely adores it. Now we can both start our days in a similar manner.


Since I was fasting on Good Friday and abstaining from meat, I decided to make my lone meal one for the record books, at seafood-forward Fish Bar in the JW Marriot. There are lots of great restaurants in Hong Kong, and I could write a book about all the wonderful eateries where I’ve spent inordinate amounts of time and money over the years. But there’s something so incredibly special about this place, because even if you’ve come from the office and are heading straight back afterwards, Fish Bar always manages to make you feel like you’re on vacation while you’re there.

Maybe it’s partly because it’s situated beside the hotel’s serene swimming pool, or maybe it’s because instead of facing the skyscraper-laden downtown, it's positioned instead to look upon the nearby mountains. But I always feel I’ve escaped the city when I dine here, even though the reality is that I’m right in the heart of it.


During my lunch that afternoon, I finished A Many-Splendoured Thing, the source material for the classic 1955 Twentieth Century Fox movie Love is a Many-Splendored Thing, which was one of the first major Hollywood productions actually filmed in Hong Kong. Technically a work of fiction, but so heavily autobiographical that the author, Han Suyin, lends the main character her own name, the novel should be required reading for anybody who's chosen to base his or her life in this city. 

I’ve been a big fan of the movie for awhile now, and the more I watch it, the more I enjoy it. But the book had always eluded me, in spite of my efforts to track down a copy. Shockingly, I’ve never been able to find it in a single Hong Kong bookstore, though you’d think it would be right there in the local interest section at the front, alongside Gweilo and Tai-Pan. What’s more, even Hong Kong's  vast network of public libraries does not have any copies available for the public to borrow.

So it was with utter joy that I spied an old, worn paperback in a used bookshop in Kampot in early February. And what a joy it was to read.

While the movie Love is a Many-Splendored Thing is first and foremost a love story, the book encompasses so much more than that. It’s one woman’s keenly-observed first-hand account of life in Hong Kong as the communists are taking power across the border. As a doctor at a local hospital, as a vibrant member of her social circle, as a sharp observer of world politics, as a Chinese citizen who has been educated in the West, she take the opportunity in print form to philosophize on so many different topics. 

Of course, the romance between beautiful Eurasian doctor Han Suyin and dashing British war correspondent Mark Elliott forms a major backbone of the work. But it is so richly filled out with such beautifully written prose that my memory of the work encompasses so many different aspects.

Tempted as I was, I made up my mind that I wouldn’t view the movie version again until after I had finished the book. So the very next day, Holy Saturday, following lunch at Five Guys, I at last permitted myself to switch it on. It remains every inch a classic. And savoring a bottle of Dow’s 1983, courtesy of Ponti, certainly augmented the screening.


After online mass on Easter Sunday, my dad sent me a text to say he was watching The Honeymooners. Having a little bit of time to kill before meeting Danijela for Easter brunch, I switched on an episode myself. I loved knowing the old man and I were separated by oceans and continents but united by Ralph and Alice Kramden’s bickering. There was an open bottle of Prosecco in the fridge that was destined to die a flat, lonely death. Why not indulge in a celebratory glass and put it out of its misery?


As you possibly remember, every Lent I give up an assortment of cravings. For starters, I always forego coffee, soda and swearing as a matter of course. In addition to this trio of stalwarts, I usually add one slightly harder sacrifice, which, this year, turned out to be chocolate.

Well, since Cadbury Creme Eggs are the flavor of Easter for me and chocolate is ingested on an almost-daily basis in my household, this was pretty difficult to bear. But I stuck to my guns and made it all the way through. Of course, I had hoarded some goodies over the past six weeks so I could indulge properly after the holiday arrived, storing them out of sight so as not be tempted until it was time to break my Lenten fast. In a fury, I retrieved them from their hiding place and promptly indulged.


A few days earlier, I had strolled past a pet shop with bunny and egg-shaped cookies for dogs, so I obviously picked them up for Fredric. Let’s just say, if I enjoyed my bubbles and chocolate, he certainly was over the moon with his Easter morning treats, as well.


At eleven, I met Danijela outside Times Square and we cabbed it over to Repulse Bay. You see, in the splurge of splurges, I had made a reservation at the Verandah at the Repulse Bay. It’s long been a dream of mine to indulge in an Easter Sunday feast at Hong Kong’s most mesmerizing brunch venue. And I was elated to secure a window table in the storied establishment, set in the original 1920s lobby of a former hotel that has otherwise been demolished and replaced with a swanky seaside high-rise.

Of course, to celebrate, I brought along a properly-chilled bottle of champagne. I had deliberately booked the table for noon but told Danijela to meet me early. No, I wasn’t afraid of Sunday traffic. The idea was to find a spot on the sandy beach and work up an appetite for the decadent affair.


I am happy to report that Easter at the Verandah was everything I envisioned it would be. I had been to the place only once before, back in 2010, I believe. Lamentably, that had turned out to be a dreary afternoon and we were far from the windows, to boot. Now, we had prime real estate, the enormous windows beside our table flung open wide to the sea.


It was perfectly sunny, with blue skies and billowy clouds, the property’s lush vegetation providing a suitable atmospheric setting for the most opulent of repasts. We’d have been utter fools not to have taken advantage of the free flow champagne package, don’t you agree? And you can be sure I’ll never let a decade pass between visits again.


Usually, the appetizer selection of the Verandah’s brunch is organized buffet-style. But, owing to the ongoing virus fears, that day’s version was instead slightly tweaked. The list of items that would normally have been available from the buffet was instead printed for each table, and you could order an unending array of delectable morsels to your heart’s content.  


We selected our main courses from the menu before again pampering ourselves with a gluttonous overordering of the dessert options, which escalated to the next level when our waiter volunteered that the vanilla souffle was so wonderful that we should order two each! Of course, we took his advice. 


Since Danijela had never been to the Repulse Bay before, we opted to take a walk around the breezy complex before returning to Happy Valley. While I can only imagine what the whole place must have been like back in the 1920s and 30s, it’s very fortunate indeed that the Verandah survives, offering a tantalizing historic vestige for those of us who prefer our present infused with a bit of the panache of the past.


We finished what remained of the bubbles on my rooftop before watching Easter Parade. Can the holiday ever be truly complete without that? And we even headed down to the local French brasserie, Saint Germain, to cap off the day. As disappointed as I had been when I first realized I'd not be able to travel over the long weekend, the whole thing wound up being one of my favorite Easters ever!


Early the next day, Fredric and I visited Happy Alley, our favorite neighborhood café. “One large black ice coffee, Roni,” I veritably screamed as I walked through its doors. Yes, although I had enjoyed my double espresso at the Verandah the previous afternoon, a morning java jolt here is probably the thing I miss most during Lent. And it was great to indulge again!


Shortly thereafter, I met up with my friends Hana and Julien to venture to faraway Tai O on Lantau Island. This is many-an-expat’s favorite place to while away a sunny afternoon. Famous for its stilt houses and pink dolphins, the village is even sometimes referred to as “the Venice of Hong Kong.”


Shockingly, I’d only been the place once before, when my mom had come to visit back in the summer of 2010 and we had gone exploring one afternoon after I took her to the Big Buddha. Let’s just say, there is no way I’m letting ten years go by again before my third visit. The three of us had such a blast that day exploring, and I know I'll be back soon. 


Tai O is a glorious place. The dazzling natural setting, the humble homes of the fisherfolk, the precious bits of old China that endure. It’s amazing that in an uber-modern megalopolis like Hong Kong, life in some pockets of the city continues just as it has done for centuries.


Outside one shop, there was a box of used books with a sign that said they cost HKD 8 each. I couldn’t believe my eyes and did a double take. That’s basically a buck. Although most of the titles were of absolutely no interest to me, I spied one collection of short stories by W. Somerset Maugham, which I quickly snapped up. (Another things I picked up before returning home: a bottle of Amontillado I found in small shop in Mui Wo, before we caught the ferry back to Hong Kong Island.)

As I’ve been making my way through Maugham's stories over the past weeks, a few have really stood out, including “Mabel,” “The Verger,” “A Marriage of Convenience,” and “The Kite,” all of which were wonderful. Apart from movie adaptations of his works, like Of Human Bondage, The Razor's Edge and The Letter, I was largely unfamiliar with the author, so I'm happy to say that's no longer the case.

But it was the fortuitous procurement of another book that added the greatest amount of joy to my post-Easter days. Woody Allen, one of my favorite living movie directors, released his autobiography Apropos of Nothing in the States at the end of March. On Maundy Thursday, I had stopped by every bookstore I knew on the north shore of Hong Kong Island looking for a copy: two Bookazine branches—one in ifc mall and the other in Prince's Building—and Cosmos and JP Books over in Wan Chai. In each location, I left disappointed. 

But then, the Friday evening after Easter, I was duly celebrating the end of the work week with my friends Matt and Ana at the Beer Bay when we decided to pop up to Shake Shack for an outdoor fast food dinner atop ifc mall. (It was a fun night out. The coronavirus case count had dropped precipitously over the previous couple of days, so people were back out on the town. Our friends Stan and Aurelie even chanced to walked by as we sipped a few Asahis near the ferry piers.)


Anyway, as we made our way up through the mall, I spied the words Apropos of Nothing—in that instantly-recognizable Windsor typeface that Allen uses for the opening credits of all of his pictures—sitting on the main counter through the Bookazine vitrine! A few days before, this had literally been the first place I stopped on my hunt. I guess Hong Kong’s stock must have been shipped by sea and took some time to arrive.

The shop was closed by that point in the night, but you can bet I returned to Bookazine's Pacific Place location shortly after it opened the next day to buy my copy, which I almost instantly began reading as I waited for Matt and Ana at the ferry piers, where we planned to head to Cheung Chau.


Apropos of Nothing instantly had me guffawing with its witty style. And I wound up finishing the whole thing—all four hundred pages of it—in a mere six days. But it was just so darn entertaining to read, and it almost felt as though Allen himself were seated beside me, narrating his life’s story. I could hear his voice in my head throughout the book's entire hilarious duration.

In case you were wondering, Matt, Ana, Fredric and I had a pretty wonderful Saturday afternoon on Cheung Chau. Needless to say, we enjoyed a hearty seafood lunch at New Baccarat, but the surprise of the day came post lunch, as we snaked our way along the island’s web of streets towards the beach, when Matt bumped into his and Anna's friend Melanie. Immediately switching gears, we, too, grabbed seats and indulged in perhaps a few too many Tsing Taos overlooking the sea, as we all laughed the day away.


Yes, the month is just flying by in memorable fashion, a true Enchanted April. And with the case count so low, there's even a visible decrease in the ubiquitous presence of face masks, though I'd still estimate around eighty-five percent of the population seems to be wearing them. It's a pretty common occurrence for me to think I recognize somebody's half-obscured face, shouting "Joanne! Joanne!" making a complete fool of myself. Nope, not Joanne, apparently. 


Did I mention that Danijela is actually moving to Germany? She accepted an offer in her company’s Hamburg office and was supposed to fly a few days ago. But, due to this quirk of virus timing, Germany is not allowing new foreign workers to cross their borders. So she’s sort of stuck here. She had to vacate her apartment on Sunday, so she's currently holed up in a hotel in Causeway Bay.

Last Thursday, Simon and I caught the bus over the Tai Po, where Danijela used to live, because she sold us her refrigerator. See, the one in our apartment is but a shadow of its former self. Only a small portion of the freezer gets cold enough to actually freeze things, while the main fridge space basically keeps items only a degree or two below room temperature. It’s fine for bottled drinks and other simple stuff, which is mostly what I keep in my fridge if indeed I even have anything beyond a light bulb in there. But Simon is more of a home chef who genuinely likes to make use of our kitchen for actions more complex than rinsing out a wine glass. So we decided to get this new contraption.

Out in Tai Po, the three of us spent some time in Danijela's flat as she prepared to pack it all up. And then we grabbed a tasty (and uber-cheap) local dinner at a nifty little Cantonese diner, which its owner had decked out with hundreds of action figures and other toys. Lemon chicken, sweet and sour pork and green beans with minced pork, plus lemon teas. These are the local equivalents of chicken noodle soup, and it certainly made for a homey evening.


I think I also mentioned in my previous post that Jimmy’s Kitchen, that classic colonial mainstay of Hong Kong’s restaurant scene—in business since 1928—announced it would soon be closing its doors, before amending the announcement to say it was actually just moving to an as-yet-unknown new location whose opening date is still-to-be-determined.


Anyway, they told me the public's response was so great that their phone has been ringing off the hook with patrons trying to secure reservations! So much so, that they delayed their originally-intended closing date from early April to the end of the month. And, after the furor still didn’t die down, they’ve now extended it until the end of May.

Before we knew of this reprieve, my work team decided we wanted one last visit to the place, so we returned on Friday for lunch, when the special of the day is Beef Wellington. And while we were savoring every bite of Jimmy’s classic fare, the friendly waitress told me they actually had an opening for brunch on Sunday, 10 May. I’m sure you can guess, I quickly snagged the booking, so it looks like I’ll have one final occasion to swing by Jimmy’s Kitchen before it relocates, after all.


I laid low on Saturday, watching a couple of old movies and chilling on the couch. And while I was finishing up The Great Ziegfeld, I was struck with one of those once-in-a-blue-moon ideas that, I must humbly brag, was pure genius!

For quite a long while now, I’ve been collecting old hotel key cards from places I’ve had the good fortune to stay over the years. I’ve also amassed a tidy little sum in banknotes from foreign countries, including out of print Cambodian and Burmese varietals that I bought from second-hand dealers. Since pretty much the day I arrived in Hong Kong, I also haven't been able to bring myself to spend the old bills you can still sometimes receive as change, here, including a few printed back in the 1980s.

These treasures have all been tucked away in closets and drawers, literally, for years, while I've tried to think of something clever to do with them. And then, on Saturday, it hit me… We have a coffee table in the living room with a huge clear glass panel that sits freely atop some red fabric. The glass is heavy but moveable. So I took it off, retrieved all the old key cards and banknotes, and placed them across the tabletop. Once I was satisfied with the design, I replaced the glass, and—voilà—a new conversation piece!


I’m just in love with this. Sometimes I get distracted from whatever it is that’s playing on the television, and just find myself looking down at the table. What do you think?


Sunday, Gabby and I ferried across to remote Po Toi, an island off the Stanley coast. The island is rugged and sparse, with a few beaches, a temple, some trails and an old lighthouse cresting a hill.


It was sheer bliss to wander about exploring a place I’d only been to once, back in 2015, shortly after I adopted Fredric, when a friend organized a junk trip that included a lunch stop at the island. Just like I had vowed upon dining at the Verandah and visiting Tai O, I pledge before God and mankind that I will soon be back again on Po Toi, as well.


Perhaps the best reason for a return visit is that the island’s famous seafood restaurant, Ming Kee, is cash only, and Gabby and I only had a collective HKD 300 between us, which didn’t go very far. Still, our fried squid and steamed vegetables with garlic were sensational, so on our next visit, we’ll withdraw sufficient funds before hopping on the ferry in order to fully pamper ourselves.

Nonetheless, it was a flat-out spectacular day, capped with some Stanley time before taxiing back to Happy Valley as the sun set.


We’re on the cusp of a long, four-day weekend, with tomorrow being the celebration of Buddha’s Birthday and Friday being Labour Day. Normally, as you probably know, I’d head to Cheung Chau for the famed Bun Festival, but the Flying Colours Parade and the bun climb have both been cancelled, so it looks like I’ll be hiking with my friends Myles and Chun over on Lantau instead. Let’s see!

Anyway, as I sign off now, please stay safe and healthy, wherever in the world you happen to be during this wild time. And, like these salted eggs we saw air drying over in Tai O on Easter Monday, keep your sunny side up!