A Lot to Be Thankful For

Even though Thanksgiving is not an official Hong Kong holiday, don’t think it passes without notice here. American expats all over the world get together to mark the wonderful occasion, and often invite an international circle of friends to join in the fun, spreading the warmth and joy of one of the best days of the year… And Hong Kong is no exception!

This year, the celebration was doubly special for me, since it also happened to coincide with my twenty-fifth birthday. My birthday always falls around Thanksgiving, and once every five or six years, it actually falls on it. (The last time this happened was in 2005, my freshman year at ‘Nova. The next: 2016, when I hit the big 3-0.)

This year, when it came time to plan my birthday festivities, friends asked what I wanted to do to commemorate the big day. Since I was unable to go home to the US for Thanksgiving, like I was last year, my number one idea to mark my first ‘quarter of a century’ was to get everybody together for a communal feast here. My wonderful HK-friends put the whole day together, and I’ll never forget the celebration! But before the evening repast, there was another, less cheerful occasion for which I will also always remember my twenty-fifth birthday: having to move apartments.

I lived at 272 Jaffe Road for almost two years. The cross street was Tonnochy Road, or Tollochee Doe in Cantonese, and that sort of became the apartment's unofficial nickname. I moved in December 17th, 2009, and it was a true turning point in my life here. For my first six weeks in Hong Kong, I had lived by myself in a ritzy serviced apartment in the Mid-levels. Lovely but isolated, the apartment made it hard for me to meet new friends. As soon as I moved into Tollochee Doe, with two new roommates to kick start the friend-making process, I really began loving my new life halfway around the world.

Since then, as a diverse group of roommates filtered through the doors of the apartment, I’ve stuck it out in Tollochee Doe and loved every minute of it. I've had four French roommates, two Swiss, two Dutch, one German, one Italian and one Brit with whom I have shared the place, and it's where Jamie, Tak, Lisa and Kristen all stayed when they came to visit. So I have many memories there and will always keep a special spot in my heart for the place. However, our landlord sold the apartment and gave us our month’s notice. We had no choice but to move some place new.

To make things easy for us, the landlord offered us a new flat only a few minutes away. It's a four bedroom apartment on Wan Chai Road, and although it’s a wee bit small for four people, I think it will do just fine for the next couple of months. Remco will finish his internship at the end of February, so we’ve all signed contracts to take us up until then. Once he has gone, Rich and I can decide what to do, whether we extend our time in this new place or try to find a different apartment elsewhere.

Anyway, because of a quirk of timing, we had to move out of the old place and into the new one on November 24th—Thanksgiving Day and my birthday. After a few days of sorting through two years' worth of items, I managed to pack up all my belongings. Luckily the landlord arranged for some movers to come by and physically transport our belongings over to the new place, which made the process very easy for me.

The only good thing to come from the otherwise unfortunate timing was that it gave me a perfect excuse to take a personal day from work—so in the end, I got Thanksgiving off in true American style.

Once I got to the new apartment to start unpacking my stuff, I met Ally, the occupant of the fourth bedroom. A teacher from the UK, she has lived in Hong Kong for the past year and had moved in a few days before. We had a nice, long chat, and as she had no plans for the evening, I invited her along to the rooftop feast.

My friend Amy lives in a beautiful apartment in Happy Valley. With a huge private rooftop overlooking the city, the flat has become a sort of meeting spot for our circle of friends, for all manner of celebrations. In fact, it was the scene of a surprise party my friends threw for me on my last birthday and where I celebrated my first Christmas Eve in Hong Kong back in 2009. When the weather is nice, it can’t be beat, and thankfully, the weather was perfect on Thanksgiving night.

We arrived at the apartment just before 8pm, and Amy had set the table with candles, golden pinecones and autumn-colored flower centerpieces. The attention to detail was incredible. It was pitch-perfect, and I was extremely impressed with the effort Amy—a Londoner—had taken to create such traditional American décor.

There wound up being fourteen dinner guests, and we were treated to a meal to remember. Our international Thanksgiving crew consisted of people from the United States, England, Wales, Italy, Holland and Germany. And with the exception of me, my American friend Eleni, and our British friend Alex who went to college in the US, it was everybody’s first Thanksgiving experience.

Amy started it off with a butternut squash soup—thick and tasty, it was full of the flavors of the fall and was just right to begin the festive meal. Of course, no Thanksgiving is complete without turkey, and that’s what came next. Cranberry sauce, two types of stuffing, two types of gravy (American and English), assorted vegetables and creamy mashed potatoes accompanied the meat. It’s hard to pick a favorite—each and every dish was spot-on and delicious. In a testament to the perfection of the Thanksgiving meal, we were all so stuffed by the end that we could hardly move. Obviously there was more to come…

Another essential element of Thanksgiving is dessert, and we had a perfect ending to a perfect meal that night. Amy made an apple crumble, and Eleni, a pie specialist, contributed two masterpieces, a traditional pumpkin pie and a honey pecan pie. If it hadn’t been for the beautiful weather, city skyline, and international crowd, we could have been in the heart of Central Jersey, the meal was so impeccable.

Thanksgiving is a time to be grateful, and with the collection of new and old friends, heaps of delicious food, and my successful arrival at the age of twenty-five, I was reminded again just how much I have to be thankful for. "This and Other Adventures Before the Age of Twenty Five," a phrase gleaned from a modern art exhibit I saw at London's Saatchi Gallery, has been a sort of mantra for me for the bulk of my Asian adventure. Now that I've reached that milestone, it's really hit me just how much of an adventure this "adventure of a lifetime" has actually been. I am so lucky to live in an exciting place like Hong Kong, and I am truly blessed to have such wonderful people to share the experience with. I owe them all my gratitude for the success of my twenty-fifth birthday. Thanks Amy, and everybody else, for helping to make it such a great night!

...This and other adventures before the age of twenty five

A Free Trip is a Great Trip

Once upon a time, when I studied abroad in France, my friends and I got a free trip to Versailles simply because there was room on the bus. The lesson we learned that day: a free trip is a great trip.

Close followers of this blog will remember that when I went to Boracay in the summer, a slight mix-up occurred with our return flights, resulting in the airline giving us a free flight back to the Philippines at some point in the next six months. Well, with the clock ticking down, we finally got our act together and took advantage of the offer this past weekend.

We had been e-mailing among the group for a few weeks trying to figure out our plan. Where did we want to go? Should we try to take some days off from work or simply have a nice little weekend getaway? Ultimately, we decided a trip to Manila, the capital of the Philippines, would be a perfect fit. Several members of the group were definitely unable to secure any time off from work, so the two hour flight to Manila made the most sense for a Friday-to-Sunday weekend trip. In the end, a few of us did wind up taking a day off from work, heading down a day early. Then the others arrived on Friday evening, and we enjoyed the weekend together before flying back as a group on Sunday night.

A free weekend away is a great weekend away, and this one was no exception! Chock full of history, ranging from the Spanish colonial administration through the devastating bombings of World War II, Manila is a fascinating place. It might not have the best reputation among Asian capitals, but in my mind, it’s one of the unsung gems of this part of the world.

I had visited once before, back in January 2010, when I went down with Kevin and his friends Matt and Chris. And this return trip reinforced my hypothesis that if you do your research and look beyond the surface, this city is immensely rewarding. After my two weekends there, I cannot understand why some people think so poorly of Manila. But I definitely think the joke is on them. I believe my friend Amy hit the nail on the head when she met up with us on Friday night: “Manila is exactly how people said it would be, except in a much more charming way than you’re led to believe.” It’s the charm of the city that compensates for all its downfalls. It’s a very special place, and I look forward to returning there when the opportunity arises.

On Thursday, Alex, Rich, my new roommate Remco and I caught the 7:30pm flight from Hong Kong International to Ninoy Aquino International Airport in Manila. After figuring out the taxi system, we arrived at and checked in to our hotel, a charming place called St. Illian’s Inn. The rooms were small, and the beds were simple, but the hotel itself was full of character, from its indoor courtyard to the Spanish-influenced architecture and décor.

St. Illian's Inn, Makati

Our first night out was spent in Makati, known as one of the nightlife hotspots of Manila. San Miguel is the most popular beer in the Philippines, and we started our long weekend off right with the delicious brew. A late night Japanese meal capped off that first night.

The next morning we woke up relatively early and headed to Greenbelt, a shopping mall with stunningly lush greenery at its center and a bevy of outdoor restaurants of all varieties spilling into this central oasis. There’s hardly a more pleasant spot to eat, and the prices of the restaurants are incredibly reasonable, especially by Hong Kong standards.

We decided to grab a meal at Mr. Jones, a hip retro take on the typical 1950s American diner. My “Sloppy Jones” was delicious—and covered in an orange-soda barbecue sauce. And ordering the Butterfinger milkshake was one of the best decisions I’ve made in the last few months. In fact, we loved our meal so much, that when the girls arrived the next day, we insisted on returning for a second time.

The inner courtyard of Greenbelt

That afternoon, we went to Intramuros, the old Spanish walled city on the Pasig River. With its imposing Fort Santiago and horse-drawn carriages, Intramuros feels like a slice of Europe surreally supplanted in the middle of a bustling Asian metropolis. Dotted with quaint courtyards, old homes, and delightful churches, Intramuros is one of Manila's treasures, and one of the most memorable spots to wander I’ve ever found.

Gate of Fort Santiago

Intramuros

Horse drawn carriages near Fort Santiago

World War II Memorial

Old Spanish courtyard

Exterior of San Agustin Church, the oldest in the Philippines

Interior of San Agustin Church

After exploring the old city, we walked to the Manila Hotel, the most prestigious place to stay in town. This historic hotel was built in 1912, and it's where General Douglas MacArthur lived when he was leading American troops in the Pacific theater during World War II. We grabbed a drink in the Tap Room, followed by a second in the lobby, while the classical orchestra serenaded guests with some live music. We then followed it up with the meal of the year: an immense seafood buffet where we literally gorged ourselves for three hours. From chilled prawns to sushi rolls, lobster to oysters Rockefeller, and mussels to seafood paella, it was an incredible dining experience. I don’t think I’ve ever seen a buffet with more options in my entire life. Different stations were scattered all over the large dining room, and it took several trips up before we even found entire sections of food. And we capped it off with chocolate fondue, ice cream and other sweet desserts.

Lobby of the Manila Hotel

That night, Silja, Amy and Sonia arrived, and we all went out to Greenbelt for a chilled evening of hookah and drinks at the Cuban-themed Café Havana. Although it was meant to be our “quiet” evening, we wound up staying out until about 5am!

Sonia, Silja and Amy in front of the hotel

Following our return to Mr. Jones the next morning, we went to the American Cemetery. I had been there on my last trip to Manila, and I’ve never forgotten the place. It’s one of the most moving, peaceful and striking spots I’ve ever been. 17,206 of our boys are buried on the grounds of the cemetery, with 36,282 additional names of those “who sleep in unknown graves” carved into the walls.

It is the largest of the international American cemeteries, and it’s a fitting tribute to those who gave the ultimate sacrifice. Interspersed throughout the memorial are several mosaic maps detailing specific battles that took place in the Pacific during the Second World War. Although less famous than some of its Europe counterparts, especially Normandy’s, I actually find the cemetery in Manila to be even more special. When I visited the one Normandy, it was full of tour groups and crowds. Still moving, to be sure, but the photo-snapping throngs of tourists definitely detracted a bit from the peace. In contrast, both of my visits to this cemetery found it nearly empty and serenely tranquil. There was hardly another person in sight, and you can stroll the grounds alone and feel the spiritual core of the place. Words can’t really describe the sobering solemnity I felt there but if you ever get the chance to visit, I’m sure you’ll immediately understand exactly what I mean.

We left the cemetery and headed towards the Coconut Palace, a mansion build for a state visit by Pope John Paul II in the early 1980s. Not surprisingly, the Pope turned down the offer to stay in the palace, because he felt it was inappropriate in a country struck by such widespread poverty. However, the structure, made entirely out of coconut, was meant to showcase the diversity and durability of one of the country’s most important natural resources. Since its construction, Brooke Shields and Col. Gadaffi have stayed in the palace, and it’s one of the few attractions in Manila I really had my heart set on seeing. You see, on my last trip, our taxi driver got lost on the way there, and we eventually had to head to the airport instead.

Exterior of the Coconut Palace

After about an hour’s ride from the cemetery, we arrived at the gates of the palace only to be told that it was no longer open for tours since it had recently been selected by the country’s vice president as his official residence. I was so disappointed, but at least we got to see the structure from the outside, which honestly was not too impressive. Luckily, a rooftop restaurant and bar overlooking the mansion, city skyline and Manila Bay was just adjacent to the palace, so we went up for a few hours, as the sun set over the bay and the stars came out over Manila.

View of the city skyline and Manila Bay

It wound up being one of the highlights of my trip, and I’m so glad we accidentally stumbled on such a hidden gem. I will surely go back on my next visit. And who knows? Maybe the next vice president will select another location as his official residence, and the Coconut Palace will once again be open for tours. I can hope anyway.

After a hearty Italian dinner at a Makati restaurant, we kick started our last night. A quick stop in one of the infamously seedy bars on P. Burgos (think midget boxing) was followed by a visit to the Fort, Manila’s trendiest nightlife district, where wealthy Filipinos dance the night away. Remco, Alex and I went into a club called Seventh High while the girls and Rich went off to the casino. We later met up in the casino, and as the sun was rising, we decided to go for yet another massive buffet, this time for breakfast.

Sunday was the day of a big boxing match. Manny Pacquiao, the Philippines’ national hero, was fighting in Vegas, and every single bar in town was showing the fight. Although everybody else was exhausted and opted to return to the hotel to sleep, Alex and I stayed up for the fight, watching as the crowd of locals cheered on their champion to victory. Although the fight itself was somewhat lackluster, the experience was awesome, and I’ll always remember the atmosphere and ambiance.

Not too long after the fight, we had to check out of the hotel and head to the airport. After one last San Miguel and a quick massage, we were ready to board. Having hardly slept the whole weekend, you can imagine how nice the flight was for me. My eyes closed as soon as I was able to recline my seat, and I did not wake up until a stewardess was tapping me on my shoulder to return my seat back to the upright position for landing. But I still hadn’t had my fill of sleep! Back at our apartment I immediately crashed and slept straight through till morning.

Airport fun

In the end, our weekend could not have been better. I loved how diverse and different each part of every day had been, and I am looking forward to exploring more of Manila’s charms on future visits!

Another Milestone: Two Years and Counting

This is a special day for me. November 9th is the anniversary of my arrival in Hong Kong, so today I officially hit the two year mark on my ‘adventure of a lifetime.’ I really can’t believe it. Looking back on the past two years, November 9th, 2009, seems so far away. So much has happened since then. But at the same time, these past two years have just whizzed by. As excited as I was about making a new life for myself in a completely different culture, I never could have known just how incredible the experience would turn out to be or that I would wind up falling in love with Hong Kong so hard. But it did, and I have.

The first photo I took in Hong Kong: November 9th, 2009

Two years is a long time… that’s half of high school, half of the time I spent at Villanova, and almost seven times longer than the time I spent in Paris when I studied abroad there in 2007.

First afternoon in our hotel in Mong Kok

I honestly think time flies faster in Hong Kong than anywhere else I’ve ever been. For example, last Halloween—the day Pietro moved into the apartment—could just as well have been yesterday. I can’t believe how fast the year has gone. This year for Halloween we coordinated a little group costume. We went as the suspects from Clue, with the assorted weapons (which were all genuine and awesome). I was Colonel Mustard, and my friends Eloise, Alex, Amy, Remco and Silja rounded out the cast. It was a great night, and Lan Kwai Fong was crazy, as we knew it would be. I expect this coming year will fly by just as quickly, and before I know it, I’ll be posting another blog entry on Halloween 2012 and my third anniversary.

Mrs. White with the wrench, Reverend Green with the dagger,

Mrs. Peacock with the rope, Prof. Plum with the candlestick,

Miss Scarlett with the revolver and Colonel Mustard with the lead pipe!

These two years have given me tons of great memories, and I look forward to many more to come. I still don’t want to think about leaving this part of the world. There’s so much to see out here that I need many, many more years to check everything off my “to do” list. But I’ve made a decent dent into that list over my first two years. It’s funny, but when I look back on some of those memories, I am shocked to realize how long I had been in Hong Kong when they happened. For example, when I visited Erin and Emily in Thailand in February 2010, I hadn’t even been here for four months, yet I felt like an old China hand already. Now four months feels like child’s play to me. But at the time I was amazed I had been away that long. It’s funny how time changes perspectives.

Going back through this blog and rereading the entries I wrote at the six month and one year marks, I still feel remarkably similar about the passage of time. I feel more the old pro than ever, and I know Hong Kong like the back of my hand, but there’s still so much of this place I’ve left unexplored.

Local scene on Cheung Chau Island

You see, when I first arrived here, my weekends were chock full of exploration. On weekends, I’d wake up early, open my Frommer’s guide, pick something I hadn’t done yet, and set off on an adventure. As the months wore on, I wound up having more leisurely weekends, or I’d end up re-doing my favorite things as opposed to taking a shot on a new one. Instead of a trekking to a remote temple in the New Territories, I’d pick a new restaurant in SoHo to try their eggs Benedict. And instead of choosing a new outlying island to explore, I’d hop on the ferry to my old favorite, Cheung Chau.

But as the looming two year milestone was staring me down, I realized just how many things I hadn’t done yet. My end-of-year resolution is that I’m going to pursue them with all the vigor I can muster over the final two months of 2011. And earlier this week, I had a chance to test out this new way of life.

Often when there is a holiday in a major market, like Japan, Singapore, the U.K. or the U.S., business is so slow that it’s pointless for both Kevin and me to be in the office. We generally split the day, one of us working the AM shift while the other takes the afternoon. On Monday, for example, I had the morning off from work because of the Hari Raya Haji holiday in Singapore. Alive, awake, alert and enthusiastic, I decided I was not squandering my free morning.

So I opened my trusty guide book and decided to explore Kowloon Walled City Park, one of the most fascinating places I’ve been in Hong Kong. First I treated myself to a hearty American breakfast at the Flying Pan (a four cheese omelet, plus a pancake, grits and hash browns) before venturing out to Lok Fu, in Wong Tai Sin on the Kowloon side. The park is a place I’ve wanted to visit for some time but somehow never got around to. Nowadays it’s a beautifully landscaped, classical Chinese garden, with stunning pavilions, ponds, plants and sculptures. But the serenity of the current site belies its notorious past.

Kowloon Walled City Park

Kowloon Walled City was created around the time the British seized control of Hong Kong Island in the 1840s. When the British later gained control of the New Territories in 1898, the official 99-year lease they signed excluded the Walled City. Officially this small plot of land was still a part of China, completely surrounded by the British-controlled colony. In practice however, China had little authority over the city, and the British also ignored it. It became a fen of seedy alleyways, illegal dentists, loose wires and densely packed high-rises.

Historic arial photo of Kowloon Walled City

Finally, in 1994, the British and Chinese governments reached an agreement to relocate the residents and demolish the place, replacing it with the current park. Today, you can visit the old almshouse in the center of the city, where interactive exhibits reconstruct life in the former slum with photos, models, video interviews of former residents and re-creations of typical scenes of city life. Archeological excavations have also unearthed historical remnants of the city walls and gates, which help visitors imagine life in yesteryear’s netherworld.

Archeologists found the old South Gate when they demolished the city.

I spent a good hour and a half just wandering around the park, soaking up the pleasant atmosphere and history of a place that took me two years to finally visit—definitely better than sleeping my free morning away!

So I’m two years in, and I feel fine. I have a renewed energy for this place, and I really do love it more than ever. Cheers to you, Hong Kong! I can’t wait to see what adventures you have in store for me in the year to come!

The Legislative Council Building and the Cenotaph in Statue Square